stick welding tube to plate

[arrow]

I know that the OP has chosen not to go with his original plan due to changes but a technique that I found might work. Having said that my disclaimer is that I am still learning every time I pick up a stinger and do not know very much.

I was trying to attach 16 gauge sheet metal to a C5-9# channel steel. I was finding the burn through problem eating my lunch as I prepped/practiced for the actual weld. Tried 6013 3/32 and 1/8 and the burn through issue got worse than with 7018. I obviously do not know how to use 6013 since it is supposed to be for sheet metal. May have been because to get penetration with 6013 into the channel the heat got too much for the sheet.

Tried the J motion with some success but still got burn through. Tried using 3/32 7018 to lower the amps but not happy with the result.
After several weeks of trying to get the results I wanted, this past week I came up with a new idea.
Do not know why I finally tried the following but it seemed to work. Wish I could draw a picture but will try to describe adequately.

Instead of laying down the rod at the normal angle and moving in the normal fashion for direction of weld movement I stood the rod up perpendicular to the direction of travel, directed the rod into the channel steel and pushed the puddle up onto the 16 ga sheet in the horizontal position and pushed the puddle over/sideways in the vertical position. Then worked the rod across the joint. I know that you minimize puddle movement with 7018 but it worked and I avoided burn through. Ran it at 110 amps, which is a little light I thought, but it worked with no burn through.

This is a combination technique both Shield and Arc suggested earlier (pushing and perpendicular and can understand why higher heat is helpful even if its contrary to what you might think is appropriate). You sir are a step ahead of me as you got to do it. I am still glad I asked the question because at least now I and others have a clue if this presents again in the shop.

 

[arrow]

You might want to cap the tube to minimize the debris you will collect in there.

I left it open on purpose for two reasons: 1. I thought the tube would be stronger if it filled. 2. Thought it would be less resistance for initial penetration. Whether these are valid reasons remains to be seen.

 

[Arc weld]

I'm curious, what's the tensile strength and ductility of dirt?:anyone:

 

[arrow]

I'm curious, what's the tensile strength and ductility of dirt?:anyone:

It probably is like gun powder. If its just loose in a pile, not so much energy. If its compacted and compressed, step away (not if its dirt however)

 

[k0ua]

The really astounding part of this thread is the fact that Arrow owns a 30 year old Harbor Freight electrical tool that still works! :shocked:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I've got a table top drill press from HF from about 1981.

 

[k0ua]

I've got a table top drill press from HF from about 1981.

I know. Some of them work out OK, but I still remember a 3/8 drill I bought from them that lasted for about 10 holes

 

[arrow]

The really astounding part of this thread is the fact that Arrow owns a 30 year old Harbor Freight electrical tool that still works! :shocked:

That's because its a "Cummins" or so what's stated on the drill itself. I also had Harbor Freight drills that broke apart in my hands from 10 years ago. I wonder if their stuff was coming from China way back then or if they used American manufacturing with their name plates.

 

[k0ua]

That's because its a "Cummins" or so what's stated on the drill itself. I also had Harbor Freight drills that broke apart in my hands from 10 years ago. I wonder if their stuff was coming from China way back then or if they used American manufacturing with their name plates.

I suspect it has always been China, but sometimes you get a good one, and sometimes you don't