Still have a hydraulic issue.

[Marlowe]

The hydraulics started the day working fine; both the FEL and the hitch. After I ran the tractor for about an hour pulling logs I noticed the FEL was very slow, and when I lowered the brush hog, it was slow to come back up. I shut it down and checked all I could. The only possible inconsistency I could find was maybe a bit too much hydraulic fluid in the system. After it cooled down a bit, everything worked better, but the FEL was still slow, although the hitch worked fine again and did so the rest of the day.

I'm speculating here, but there seems to be a few possibilities.

One, the extra oil in the system is frothing and causing the erratic operation. I don't see what could cause that, but I suppose it's possible. I'll go ahead and drop the level down to the hash mark on the stick. It's about a half inch high; over the top of the hash mark.

Two, the hydraulic pump is worn or leaking internally. When the oil heats up and thins down some, the marginal pump pressure drops to the point where the FEL will not work. I'd bet the FEL required more pressure to work than the rear hitch. Not sure.

I just had the pump apart to change the input shaft seal. I didn't see any unusual wear. All the teeth looked good and the bushings show minimal wear to the naked eye.

Any ideas?

Thanks again, Tom

 

[Glenn9643]

Mine is a different tractor, but I've overfilled the hyd oil with no problems. Could it be that you're not using the recommended oil? Just grasping at straws here...

TOM... the highlighted text below is a LINK! Put the cursor on it and click to read appropriate information.
This might help.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I run all my tractors with the hydraulic level well over the full mark. Never been a minutes trouble. If I develope a leak on a cylinder, or some other loss of oil, there's still plenty in the system.

An internal oil leak will cause your oil to heat up, which in turn makes it thiner, causing it to leak more. I'd say that's where your problem is at.

Check operating pressures and temperatures. Compare those to manufacturers specs.

 

[texbaylea]

Marlowe

When you had your pump down to replace the seal did you disturb the relationship of the inner and outer gears and their relationship to the pump housing. The internal leakage depends on the minimal clearances of the pump components. Pulling the gears out and not getting them back in the same relationship as before will upset the clearances especially after some wear.

Vernon

 

[Marlowe]

I put in light hydraulic oil, ISO 32. It's not the container I meant to pick up. Don't know how I managed that, but the one I meant to get said tractor transmission/hydraulic oil on the container. Maybe it's the wrong stuff.

One problem I have is no owners/operators manual. I'd be happy to get one if I could find it. Mitsubishi 1801.

Tex, in response to the gear oriention. Mine only has two gears. Is that what you are refering to as inner and outer? I put them back in the same position I got them from; even aligned the teeth, just in case.

I'm beginning to think that light hydraulic oil may be the culprit, I just have not found a definitive answer as to what is the right stuff.

Any ideas?

Thanks again,

Tom

 

[Glenn9643]

Apparently you didn't read the link I posted previously.
This was what was posted regarding a mitsubishi mt-180h. If he has manuals for that model, chances are he has yours.

Use Universal Tractor Fluid, AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil, John Deere type 303 or equivalent in the transmission. Use 10w30 or 10w40 diesel rated oil in the engine. The engine oil filter is 1064 Napa. We sell manuals for your tractor. email vppinc@rev.net or call 800-609-5110. Bill

 

[Marlowe]

Glenn,

No, I didn't read your link. I looked feverishly for it though. Just couldn't find anything definite such as your post here. I just finished changing out the hydraulic oil for the oil you posted here. Everything works, but it's cool. I'll give it a honest workout tomorrow and post all the results. You can't beat good information.

I'll be in touch for that manual.

Thanks to all,

Tom

 

[JerryG]

Tom,
If the filter is clean, I would check to see if there was a hydraulic suction hose collapsing. When everything gets warmed the hoses get warm also and can collapse much easier.

 

[Dirthog]

you should check your pump carefully seals don't just start to leak more likely shaft or bushings wore or contamnation of system

 

[Marlowe]

My incoming feed line is a metal pipe. It doesn't collapse, thank goodness. No contamination or stopped up filters, or anything nice and easy.

I did learn a bit more today. With the correct oil in the unit, and things all warmed up, if I raised the three point hitch all the way up, it acted like there was something wrong with the FEL; real slow. Quite by chance, I lowered the three point just a bit, and the FEL worked like a champ. I guess all our machines have their little quirks, but I'm wondering if this is something I need to fix, or adust. It buggs the heck out of me to not know how and why.

The wife told me again today that it would have been much cheaper to just pay someone to clear our land. She's right you know, but how much fun would that be?

Tom