Still No Spark 1950 8N 12v conversion.

[Soundguy]

Here's another thought. Did you do a complete compression check? What if you burned a hole in the head gasket in the spot where two cylinders come come together? The compression gases would pass from one cylinder to another causing power loss and maybe a no start.

not saying he couldn't have a bypassing head hasket at 2 cyls.. however most average N will start and run on 2 cyl's...

soundguy

 

[2LateIWon]

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Dang starter went out.....

 

[2LateIWon]

But I did find out that i have compression in #4 #3 and #2 The weird thing is the rotor was pointing back towards the engine just to the left on 0*

 

[J_J]

Your distributor shaft might be broken.

 

[jinman]

But I did find out that i have compression in #4 #3 and #2 The weird thing is the rotor was pointing back towards the engine just to the left on 0*

It sounds like if you were looking for #1 that your distributor is correct. Look at this link for a very helpful photo.

 

[2LateIWon]

It sounds like if you were looking for #1 that your distributor is correct. Look at this link for a very helpful photo.

exactly that's where the #1 is showing. I always thought #1 was where #4 was.

 

[Soundguy]

remember.. #1 can be anywhere as long as the rotor is pointing at it at tdc on comp stroke.

soundguy

 

[jimmysisson]

Just going back to something JJ said. If the point gap is larger, isn't the spark more advanced? Lobe comes around, hits the rubbing block sooner and opens the points wider? Point gap minimal, lobe hits later? It's been a long time since I looked at points though...
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

wider is wider.. narrower is narrower.. sooner or later is a lil different than plain gap.

soundguy

 

[jinman]

Oh boy! Does this mean we get to talk about point dwell and how to use a dwell-tach? WHOOPEE!:laughing:

In a 4-cyl engine, the points open and close every 90 degrees. In an 8-cylinder engine, they open and close every 45 degrees. With a 6-volt system that has been converted to 12 volts and has a 12 volt coil, there is no reason to believe that the spark will not be extremely hot if the point gap is slightly larger or smaller than spec. I've set many points and used the double thickness of a matchbook cover as my gauge. They worked great. As long as the points have no burrs or deep pits (flat contacts) and open the proper amount when at the top of the lobe, the tractor should fire and run. In really critical timing situations, you set the points first and then go back and adjust the timing to spec, but this is just not that critical an application to get an 8N running almost "purrrr-fectly."

BTW: Does anyone here remember when point sets used to come with a little bubble container of grease for greasing the distributor cam? I had a buddy that used all the grease in one big glob and it ended up slinging off the cam and getting into the point gap. What a mess!