Straight cuts with plasma cutter.

[dragoneggs]

Awesome. This thread will inspire those in need to make their own. Oh the beauty of it.

Exactly what I was thinking. Will probably hop on McMaster Carr soon and see if I can find the 'wheels' and maybe some kind of ring clamp. Need to study them a bit first.

 

[Oldpath05]

I dont know why more people dont make something like this for straight cuts.......... YouTube

 

[Big Barn]

About the same dollars I sold my old radial arm saw. :mur:

Be glad you did. It would take up way too much space for the amount of short straight cuts you would do with it.

Years back I considered it when Steve came up with the idea. I think both of us came to our senses. (Admittedly a rare occurrence for me).

 

[BukitCase]

Actually, I just passed on the RAS idea (while temporarily ignoring my "senses" :laughing: )

However, I currently have THREE RAS's; the original Craftsman "commercial" 12", bought new in 1972 (still functional but could use a tiny bit of TLC) the 10" I got off CL for $50 BEFORE the "semi-senses" returned, and another 12" off CL ($10, incl. 2 NEW blades - family was moving long distance) -

And no, NOT still thinking about using one for plasma; keeping the original 12", other 12" will likely be a "parts donor" to keep the original going. The 10" may end up getting turned into an over-arm router or ??? The jury's still out on THAT one

Back on track (sorta)

Buford, once you get the hang of travel speed on your new plaz you may find (as I did) that there's little worry about burning up any templates (depending on how your torch tip is shaped) - my Hypertherm torch cap tapers down from about 1" to 3/8" in diameter, then STAYS that diameter for a little over 3/16" -

That smaller straight section can ride against a 1/8" masonite pattern, and the most I've seen happen (with the cut being about 1/4" away) is a little discoloration. In fact, I made a pattern for some "stiffener" rings for the deck on my Cub ZTR (out of 3/16" plate) and cut ALL THREE rings (one for each spindle) from one pattern - still got the pattern if I ever need to do it again... Steve

 

[TMGT]

I made a circle cutting attachment about 7 years ago to cut out 16 disc to make my core aerator. Never thought of using the wheeled portion for a guide.

The circle cutter also helped make the blower housing for my leaf vac. It comes in pretty handy.

 

[dragoneggs]

I've never considered wood. I'm pretty sure it would catch fire if I tried it. My last welding project found a bunch of old towels on my cleaning cart. DOH!

Just made a couple of short straight cuts with scrap 1/2in plywood hanging around instead of using a metal straight edge. Works fine... very little 'burnage' except where the wood is in contact with the hot steel. Doesn't affect the straight edge where the nozzle is traveling against.

 

[BufordBoone]

Looking good, Dragoneggs. I plan to do a bit of experimentation later this week. For small cuts, paint stirring sticks just may be the ticket!

 

[Big Barn]

You should use a guide THIN enough so that the tip itself can slide along it and not the nozzle cap otherwise if you don’t keep the torch perpendicular your cut width will vary.

 

[dragoneggs]

Looking good, Dragoneggs. I plan to do a bit of experimentation later this week. For small cuts, paint stirring sticks just may be the ticket!

yeah normally I use a thin piece of metal as BB says but for short quick cuts that I am not too worried about straightness, a piece of wood works fine. I like the idea of paint stir sticks but use new ones...

 

[camshawn]

I have several pieces of fibreglass angle that I use for strait Edges. Helps make nice square corners. Ask your industrial electrician if they have any scrap pieces. We used it for supporting cables and mounting things that needed to be isolated from the power. Cam

 

[BufordBoone]

I did some experimentation today and the best thing I found was to use a wooden Home Depot ruler. The wood is 1/4" thick and, on my Thermal Dynamics torch, it fits just like Big Barn recommended/showed.

Thanks for all the good ideas

 

[Industrial Toys]

I don't understand. I always use a straight edge and it has always been conductive. I guess I am using a Hypertherm Dragging style tip. My biggest issue is just finding a staight edge that accomodates the various diameters of the torch tip.

A week or so ago.

 

[BufordBoone]

I don't understand. I always use a straight edge and it has always been conductive. I guess I am using a Hypertherm Dragging style tip. My biggest issue is just finding a staight edge that accomodates the various diameters of the torch tip.

A week or so ago. View attachment 664700

Nice work there, Industrial Toys. I hope I can get that good with practice. From others they also use straight edges that are conductive and have not had issues. I'm only going by what my User's Manual says. I'm such a newby that I've managed to get my torch tip stuck to the work piece. It wasn't stuck hard but I did stick it.

Learning is a process.

 

[Industrial Toys]

# 1, aggravation from day one, me using the PLASMA. Tip getting stuck. Mostly, when I am trying to do a nice job. Never once when cutting up something for scrap.

BTW, I set fire to my gloves when cutting that tank. On account of the paint, but almost intolerable when cutting through the labels.

 

[Sberry]

Paint sticks, yard sticks. Short stuff I do by hand, I been doing it long enough I can get close. Pic 3 oxy torch. No guide. Little jerky, I dont do it a lot or enough to be reallyyyy smooth. Can blow about 95% of the dross in the box. By the time I am done with it the stuff is really scrap.

 

[Sberry]

I dont look at a lot of utube but the thing with the drill is good. An old now deceased bud of mine, Franklin Domeres invented a deal called a Steel Beaver that was similar,,, way before a battery drill was a reality but it had a crank and clamped up any conventional torch. Its a neat idea and if I was cutting a lot or making bevels would do something like that and it could be quick to build. My stuff is so limited that if the line is straight I can cut it straight and use a simple yardstick that I have the feel for. Most of the time dont even clamp it, occasionally on one end for long sheets.

 

[workinonit]

Paint sticks, yard sticks. Short stuff I do by hand, I been doing it long enough I can get close. Pic 3 oxy torch. No guide. Little jerky, I dont do it a lot or enough to be reallyyyy smooth. Can blow about 95% of the dross in the box. By the time I am done with it the stuff is really scrap.

That's some really nice blow torch work there. I wouldn't even show my torch work here. But the plasma I can cut it like a shear. BTW, I use angle iron with my drag tip.

 

[shaeff]

I've always used a piece of 3" wide by 1/8" thick stock. The ridge on the tip of my plasma (Hypertherm PM45) rides nicely on the edge. If you're super concerned with a really nice cut, run a flap wheel over the area to be cut first. Fine grit. Remove paint, etc...

I never bother, as with a clamped on guide any small imperfections can be easily cleaned up with a flap wheel. One thing to note:

Always wear a respirator of some sort that filters out all the nasty fumes. Thought I was real cool a number of years ago until I cut up some galvanized and thought I was going to die shortly after. Respirator. I want to live a long life to use my tools. I want the same for all of you.