Strange, cheap, concrete mixer

[N8ghz]

An ingenious idea you have.

I modified an old Sears mixer to mount via 3-point hitch, and just last w/end modified it to run with a hydraulic motor off of my newly installed rear hydraulics Q/c's. Now I can run the drum by changing position of my selector valve. I left the electric motor on it in case I ever want to run it with 120vac, by removing the sprocket and putting the pulley and belt back on it.

Now I want to add a cylinder for dumping from the tractor seat.

 

[k0ua]

An ingenious idea you have.

I modified an old Sears mixer to mount via 3-point hitch, and just last w/end modified it to run with a hydraulic motor off of my newly installed rear hydraulics Q/c's. Now I can run the drum by changing position of my selector valve. I left the electric motor on it in case I ever want to run it with 120vac, by removing the sprocket and putting the pulley and belt back on it.

Now I want to add a cylinder for dumping from the tractor seat.


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hey that is pretty cool. How much did the hydraulic motor set you back moneywise?

73
James K0UA

 

[N8ghz]

Not to hi-jack this guys thread, but the motor cost me about $35. The sprockets and chain I had laying around. The motor is a 1.0cu.in Rexroth. The chain ratio is 4:1.... 10 into 40.
If will turn a loaded drum @ idle, (540 PTO) and revving-up when first mixing is about the same drum speed as when using the 1725 rpm electric motor. My tractors have 1000rpm PTO capability too, but I see no need to run that speed, but I could if I wanted to? The pinion RPM of the stock electric powered setup was 246 (no load on 1/4hp electric motor). The 1000rpm pto setting would make it 250, but even with the 540 setting, I think it'll be fine.


And 73 to you as well

John

 

[ns_in_tex]

I wonder how it's been working for him for the last 5 years since he posted this...

We mixed about 50, 80 lb sacks a couple weeks ago. Still beats a wheel barrow all to pieces.

 

[k0ua]

We mixed about 50, 80 lb sacks a couple weeks ago. Still beats a wheel barrow all to pieces.

Did you ever try to silicone seal the rim of the lid or just let it drip a bit?

James K0UA

 

[ns_in_tex]

Maybe I am an idiot but I don't get it. You take the lid off, on it's side, because it is strapped to the pallets forks. So the barrel is flat. You throw two bags of Crete in and then the water.... But the water is going to pour out as it is on its side while you struggle to put the lid on. Maybe I have the issue as my forks don't tip up all that far when 3 feet off the ground.

On my Kubota, there is plenty of roll back, even setting on the ground, but we lift it up for easy working heighth. We found putting the water in first works best for us. When you remove the lid, you can check with a hoe & see if it is mixed well or not.

 

[ns_in_tex]

What's old is new.
It's a great idea - but a simpler way of securing/removing the lid would make it way better.
Maybe replace the threaded clamp with a chain binder/toggle mechanism?
... or maybe that's what's already on there?

My barrel has a lever locking handle, versus a bolt on lid.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Did you ever try to silicone seal the rim of the lid or just let it drip a bit?

James K0UA

Yes, we did run a bead of silicone on the lid. It is still there. Only did it once. It still will drip a little, but not enough to matter. We don't leave it in the down position any longer than necessary. Actually, after putting in the ingredients & closing the barrel, we lift it high enough to turn upside down, speed up the engine to get faster hydraulic movement, then flip the barrel as fast as possible, until we think it is ready.

 

[Baby Grand]

Aha - I have never seen one of those ... nice!

 

[npalen]

Probably should consider mounting three small barrels side by side so could mix a different color in each.

Edit: Seriously, the barrel on the bucket idea is great! May have to give it a try.
Some large diameter plastic pipe with endcaps might be another approach.