Strange noise

[Donfi]

Hi hope someone can help me identify the source of a strange grinding noise on my 2011 CK20s Manual transmission. It comes and goes, not always there. When I am working the machine and engage the clutch a grinding noise is heard, seems to occur more frequently if I am approaching the stop point under strain close to stall point.

:anyone:

 

[CobyRupert]

Throw out bearing on the clutch is going/gone. Hope not, but my :2cents:

 

[Donfi]

Thanks for the quick response. Gives me a starting point. Any chance this would be covered under the four yr. warranty, will consult with dealer on Monday. Would hate to be down for any length of time, this is my key snow handling equipment, front mount snow blower and rear blade.

 

[Sawworcs]

I have heard the same noise on a ck20 manual when running a brush hog and I push the clutch in.?

 

[mpham]

If the pto is engaged when I push in the clutch on my 20 it makes a grinding type noise. I have been told this is a brake type unit in the clutch housing. Does yours do it with pto on or off? Or both?

 

[rider7767]

I have a CK20S with manual transmission. It has a PTO over run clutch built in. When I am brush cutting, clutch, and stop it makes a loud repeating clicking sound. This is normal. Some times, when not using the PTO and I am pulling hard and push the clutch, it will click. The PTO over run clutch will make a click (internal click which could be interpreted as a grind) when in four wheel drive under load with different rotational pressures from front to rear wheels. I live on the side of a mountain, and this happens all the time to me.

For those that don't know, The CK20S with manual transmission does not have live PTO. Therefore, the PTO over run clutch keeps the rotation of ,for example, a brush cutter from pushing the tractor through a fence. Or worse yet, off a cliff!

I once had an old 8N Ford drive through a fence because I did not put on the PTO over run clutch. I am glade the Kioti has it built in.

If it is not the PTO overrun clutch (which is normal) , I would lean toward a throw-out-bearing. Replacing it is not hard, but the tractor will have to be split.

 

[Coyote machine]

So far as the warranty- if it is a clutch related part ~ TOB, it will likely NOT be covered. Carefully read your warranty specifics to be sure what is covered.

 

[GMtb42]

The Hydro CK20 or at least mine still has a clutch, throwout bearing will make a terrible noise when bad and most time you can feel it in the clutch pedal, there is always a slight noise change when engaging/disengaging a clutch.
The overrun clutch will click (which the hydro Ck20 still has), it will sound like a fast click at first which could be mistaken as a grinding, if it is the overrun you can test like others have said, start an attachment turning and push in on the clutch it will click fast at first as the attachment slows so will the clicking, if it is a throwout bearing it will not, it will remain a steady grinding noise.
Most times wearable parts like clutches/throwout bearing are not covered.

 

[Donfi]

Thanks for all of the relies. I am going to go with the overrun clutch as the culprit. No vibration at the pedal and not really a terrible noise. Will be completing 600 hr service soon and will have dealer check it then.

The Hydro CK20 or at least mine still has a clutch, throwout bearing will make a terrible noise when bad and most time you can feel it in the clutch pedal, there is always a slight noise change when engaging/disengaging a clutch.
The overrun clutch will click (which the hydro Ck20 still has), it will sound like a fast click at first which could be mistaken as a grinding, if it is the overrun you can test like others have said, start an attachment turning and push in on the clutch it will click fast at first as the attachment slows so will the clicking, if it is a throwout bearing it will not, it will remain a steady grinding noise.
Most times wearable parts like clutches/throwout bearing are not covered.

 

[woodm]

I also have an irritating clutch noise in my CK20S hydrostatic unit, however, I would describe it as a whine/squeal-type noise. It is most prominent at idle and will usually disappear if I depress the clutch pedal slightly. My dealer repaired this once, under warranty, however, the noise has reoccurred and, of course, my warranty is expired now.

My dealer explained that the problem was caused by some kind of sleeve or bushing that was worn out??? I have decided to live with the noise for now but will attempt to repair myself if it gets worse and I can no longer tolerate same.

 

[GMtb42]

I also have an irritating clutch noise in my CK20S hydrostatic unit, however, I would describe it as a whine/squeal-type noise. It is most prominent at idle and will usually disappear if I depress the clutch pedal slightly. My dealer repaired this once, under warranty, however, the noise has reoccurred and, of course, my warranty is expired now.

My dealer explained that the problem was caused by some kind of sleeve or bushing that was worn out??? I have decided to live with the noise for now but will attempt to repair myself if it gets worse and I can no longer tolerate same.

Probably throwout, or the needle bearing/bushing for the pilot shaft or input shaft. I know that the Kubota I had and the Kioti I have now both have a bail used to keep the clutch in a loaded state while the tractor is being stored/not used regularly, keeps clutch plates from freezing up or sticking.

 

[Coyote machine]

Probably throwout, or the needle bearing/bushing for the pilot shaft or input shaft. I know that the Kubota I had and the Kioti I have now both have a bail used to keep the clutch in a loaded state while the tractor is being stored/not used regularly, keeps clutch plates from freezing up or sticking.

What is the 'bail' you refer to?

 

[GMtb42]

What is the 'bail' you refer to?

On the CK20 it has a small bail or pickup latch type retainer that holds the clutch pedal in the fully depressed position, it is just a bent rod looking thing that latches onto the clutch pedal on a peg protruding from the side of the pedal, done so by pushing clutch in all the way and lifting the bail up to the peg and releasing the clutch pedal, the pedal's forward force holds the bail in place.
I may have used the wrong spelling of bail, should it have been bale? Nope bail.

 

[Gil Case]

That latch is on the CK20 HST as well. Are you saying that the clutch pedal should be locked for extended or cold storage???

 

[GMtb42]

That latch is on the CK20 HST as well. Are you saying that the clutch pedal should be locked for extended or cold storage???

Yep, why it is there, if you look at my sig it states I have a HST.
Don't know if that would help the throwout bearing last longer but it is there for the clutch plates, I use it every so often especially in winter.
Seriously I had a old Ford pickup with manual trans and 300,000 miles on it before the throwout bearing/clutch went out, riding the clutch (keeping foot on it with slight pressure) is the worse thing you can do to a clutch and throwout bearing, bad/wrong adjustment, let out on the clutch and get off the pedal, make sure it is adjusted to the correct free play and a clutch will last for a long time typically.

 

[seacap04]

Yea Gil it should. My old Satoh 630D sat for a while and went to use and clutch plates rusted to flywheel. Tried every trick in the book to free it and finally had to split the tractor.