Straps vs chains - trailering

[CMV]

I don't trailer my tractor often but wonder if ratchet straps are sufficient/safe or are chains necessary?

Pretty light at maybe 2300 lbs for the tractor w/ FEL + any implement. Trailer is a typical landscape/utility with a reinforced mesh back gate and rail all around. 2x 3500 lbs axles, electric brakes, bumper pull. F150 ecoboost w/tow package pulls it.

I like CGU/1-B aircraft tiedown straps. I keep them stored indoors when not in use and they are in great shape. Is there any reason those aren't acceptable and I should be using chains & binders instead? 4 x 5000lbs straps * 50% means that should secure 10,000 lbs & I'm maybe 1/4 of that.

In general, I go from my land to my house which is 10-15 min trip. For that, I can't see taking the extra time with chains when the straps are so much faster. But I can see lending a hand on some family projects 6.5 hrs away, all highway, going thru several states and would want to be safe and legal for a longer trip like that (not meaning I DON'T want to be safe & legal for a short local trip...).

 

[3Lfarms]

Those straps are used to tie down 2000lb bombs as well as nuclear cruise missiles to weapons trailers for transport. You’ll be fine. LOL

 

[CMV]

Thinking of all the big stuff I've ridden with in C-130s, C-141's, & C-5's secured with them that's kinda what I'm thinking, but figured I better get some input.

Not that my machine is huge by any means, it's a lot more than the typical riding mowers or ATVs I generally haul around.

 

[bcp]

Do they have a load rating label a DOT inspector can see?

Bruce

 

[George2615]

The straps are fine but I found they don't last as long as chains. They do get frayed in places. Personally I use 4 chains and ratchet binders for the tractor and either chains or straps for attachments.

 

[StuartDK45SE]

I have dedicated chains, cut to the right length for front and back. I can actually put them on as fast as straps.

 

[oldnslo]

For infrequent use and lighter loads I find straps are far more useful and convenient for me. I have only been stopped and weighed once while hauling my 2400H and the state cops did not seem concerned about me using 3" ratchet straps on four corners.

 

[4570Man]

I prefer chains, but if you can protect the straps from fraying they'll be fine.

 

[bdog]

Do they have a load rating label a DOT inspector can see?

Bruce

Don’t need one. If a label is absent they have a chart based on strap size.
Driver's Handbook on Cargo Securement - Chapter 2: General Cargo Securement Requirements | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

That being said chains are far better. Straps will work but chains last practically forever and won’t fray or get abrasion damage like straps do.

 

[bcp]

But if not marked, the rating from the chart is often considerably lower, just like for chains.

Bruce

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Don’t need one. If a label is absent they have a chart based on strap size.
Driver's Handbook on Cargo Securement - Chapter 2: General Cargo Securement Requirements | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

That being said chains are far better. Straps will work but chains last practically forever and won’t fray or get abrasion damage like straps do.

Local and/or State requirements may exceed the federal ones. Key is making the cargo part of the truck/trailer so it cannot shift separately. Nothing worse than the cargo moving a different direction than the vehicle. Moving cargo can create forces greater than tie downs are rated for. Seeing cargo flying through the walls of an enclosed truck is an eye opener.

Ron

 

[bdog]

But if not marked, the rating from the chart is often considerably lower, just like for chains.

Bruce

Agreed but with a 2,300 lb tractor OP is unlikely to exceed the rating unless he is using some tiny straps.

 

[Deere Dude]

I would use chains on the rear and straps on the front. You can accelerate slow all the time but braking sometimes is a very abrupt change in inertia. Just my rambling thought.

 

[Fallon]

I swapped to chains from 15,000lbs rated straps after some non-sharp corners on the bumper of my 3,000lbs L3200 cut the straps half way through. It only took a 15 minute ride on some gravel road. You can strap things down better so there is usually only metal hooks on metal, but not always. I find chain safer.

 

[bdog]

I swapped to chains from 15,000lbs rated straps after some non-sharp corners on the bumper of my 3,000lbs L3200 cut the straps half way through. It only took a 15 minute ride on some gravel road. You can strap things down better so there is usually only metal hooks on metal, but not always. I find chain safer.

Where did you find 15,000lbs rated straps? They must have been a foot wide. Most 4" straps used on semis are only rated for 5,400 lbs.

 

[4570Man]

Where did you find 15,000lbs rated straps? They must have been a foot wide. Most 4" straps used on semis are only rated for 5,400 lbs.

It was probably breaking strength not working load. There's a big difference.

 

[bdog]

It was probably breaking strength not working load. There's a big difference.

Thats a big problem with straps. The basic 2" yellow ratchet straps you see everywhere are commonly advertised as 10,000lb. That is the breaking strength but the rated WLL is usually 3,333 lb. Every Joe Blow off the street buys them and thinks they are good for 10,000 lbs of securement.

 

[Fallon]

Thats a big problem with straps. The basic 2" yellow ratchet straps you see everywhere are commonly advertised as 10,000lb. That is the breaking strength but the rated WLL is usually 3,333 lb. Every Joe Blow off the street buys them and thinks they are good for 10,000 lbs of securement.

They are 4" straps, some had 15,000lbs printed on them. As I was strapping down a 3,500lbs with 4 of em I wasn't to picky. They may very well only gave a WLL of 5k lbs.

I stopped using them because if the cuts on the straps from non-sharp corners. The rating on the straps are irelevant if they are partially or completely cut through. MUCH harder to cut chain in half even if you are using it on sharp edges.

You'd probably be fine if you could guarantee that the straps wouldn't ever come into contact with any corners. But with different impliments & attachment points sometimes that's not possible.

 

[tmcj]

My tractor with BH & FEL weighs about 3200# and I have used the typical 3333# straps any time I've hauled it so far. I typically strap to the rear axles and either the front axle, or the loader mount which is bolted to the frame. 1 strap on each corner, and a smaller strap over the FEL and 1 strap over the BH bucket. I haven't had any issues with any coming loose yet. I also typically haul well within 30 minutes of home on rural roads but I wouldn't hesitate to travel further with this set up on major highways, etc. As long as you inspect your straps frequently and take good care of them, including storage, they should be fine.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

They make straps where the last foot(tie down) is chain pricey?, i too have had the cut strap issue and use only chains on the loader. However lighter loads use the straps. Still an issue cutting the straps. straps are nice,don't cut or damage the load, but get cut. Chains don't get cut but damage the load. Both chains and straps do have there place.