Stuck Pin? Hydralics Question
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Well, for your continuing pleasure, here is the follow up (stage 1). I made sure the thing wasn't bound up with weights from elsewhere in the hoe. I took off the distal attachment of the cylindars. I drained all the oil. And I discovere that with fully mobile swing cylindars, these pins are quite firmly frozen inside the cylindar housing. I tried the "wack the **** out of it" advice and they barely moved. Heating with a torch was useless. Between a combination of the wacking and the use of a gear puller, I was able to get the pins down beneith the surface of the top bracket. However, I really would have wanted the pins to come up instead, but there was no way to exert wacks from below. I was hoping all this movement downward would crack everything loose, but no......
The next stage will require grinding off the pins so the cylindars can be extracted. Then I can set them on my arbor press and push out the remaining part of the pin. Have to go to Home Depo and get a metal-cutting wheel for my angle grinder as the bimetal blade on the Sawzall barely scratched the pin. Then need to buy a new pin. And finally, repack or replace these leaking swing cylindars.
I just bought the B7100 tractor/backhoe/loader. This buisness of trying to extract the leaky swing cylindars is my first real task with the thing. Will somebody please tell me all the jobs on this thing won't be such a pain?
Tim
The next stage will require grinding off the pins so the cylindars can be extracted. Then I can set them on my arbor press and push out the remaining part of the pin. Have to go to Home Depo and get a metal-cutting wheel for my angle grinder as the bimetal blade on the Sawzall barely scratched the pin. Then need to buy a new pin. And finally, repack or replace these leaking swing cylindars.
I just bought the B7100 tractor/backhoe/loader. This buisness of trying to extract the leaky swing cylindars is my first real task with the thing. Will somebody please tell me all the jobs on this thing won't be such a pain?
Tim
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Dirthog said:
Well....the problem is the "drive it right out" part. It can't be driven down, would have to be pulled up. And I tried a propane torch, no such luck. Someday that "heat it up and it will break the crud" advice will work, so I keep trying, but so far I've only further frustrated myself with the technique....
charlz
Elite Member
timcote42 said:
Well, changing the clutch on mine was a bit of work
you have to split the tractor in half.It's funny though 'cause I just took the bucket off my hoe to re-work the worn holes/pins. While I was there I looked at my swing cylinder pins and they really did not look that stuck. Of course most of my pins look pretty sloppy!
I am interested to see how the repack goes cause mine leak all over the place and I was thinking about doing it this winter. I also want to make an 8 or 9 inch bucket for it. The 16" I have is just too big for putting in small water lines etc.
Charles
SPYDERLK
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From what you said earlier it sounds as tho you have a hardened pin. I cant understand why because theres no way that cly would strain a plain steel pin. On the off chance your saw blade was dull, try drilling a 3/16 hole as close to dead center as you can get. If you can drill it you can thread the hole and pull it out with a bolt. Try drilling it with a good quality HSS drill bit and let us know if it will penetrate.timcote42 said:
larry
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AFAIK the idea behind using heat is to try to get two different pieces of metal to expand at different rates. In this case, to get the cylinder bore to expand without expanding the pin. That cylinder is a huge heat sink. You would need to heat it fairly evenly for a long time to get the whole end to "swell' enough to expand the bore. Meanwhile you would need to keep the pin cool, so it stayed the same size.timcote42 said:
The heat required to expand the cylinder _bore_ would have burned (or at least discolored the paint) and the end of the cylinder would be bone dry.
BTW there is usually a very short time between when a bore expands and a pin/bolt (in direct contact) expands to re-close any gap. Applying heat is best done by two people - one apply the heat evenly and the other continuously tapping on the pin listening for any change in the sound indicating the gap opening -- then pounding the ____ out of the pin
Talon Dancer
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This is good advice. If you dont have a really hi power torch tho you will not be able to get the needed temp difference between pin and bore. In that case, looking at it another way may be more effective. The rust that has that pin seized can probably be crushed leaving the pin looser. Heat the bore and pin as hot as you dare. Then spray a strong stream of water on the bore. It will shrink on the hot pin crushing the rust a little. Then spray on penetrating oil and let it cool completely. Then do as TalonDancer described. This assumes you cant drill and thread and pull it as I mentioned earlier, because that would avoid hammering on it and causing the end to mushroom.TalonDancer said:AFAIK the idea behind using heat is to try to get two different pieces of metal to expand at different rates. In this case, to get the cylinder bore to expand without expanding the pin. That cylinder is a huge heat sink. You would need to heat it fairly evenly for a long time to get the whole end to "swell' enough to expand the bore. Meanwhile you would need to keep the pin cool, so it stayed the same size.
The heat required to expand the cylinder _bore_ would have burned (or at least discolored the paint) and the end of the cylinder would be bone dry.
BTW there is usually a very short time between when a bore expands and a pin/bolt (in direct contact) expands to re-close any gap. Applying heat is best done by two people - one apply the heat evenly and the other continuously tapping on the pin listening for any change in the sound indicating the gap opening -- then pounding the ____ out of the pin
Talon Dancer
larry
Yeah, your propane torch is outclassed by the amount of metal it has to heat. You need an O/A torch with a rosebud to get enough heat to do anything.
Once the pins are rusted in, they are a pain in the drain to get out. When you whacked it, you probably mushroomed the head of the pin and that compounds your problems. Always put something soft between the pin and the persuasion.
If you have the pins 1/2 way out, try heating the back of the cylinder up and twisting the pin with a pipe wrench.
Oh, let us know what the cost of the pins are. Most backhoe parts like pins and bushings are pretty dern spendy. Sometimes shockinly so.
jb
Once the pins are rusted in, they are a pain in the drain to get out. When you whacked it, you probably mushroomed the head of the pin and that compounds your problems. Always put something soft between the pin and the persuasion.
If you have the pins 1/2 way out, try heating the back of the cylinder up and twisting the pin with a pipe wrench.
Oh, let us know what the cost of the pins are. Most backhoe parts like pins and bushings are pretty dern spendy. Sometimes shockinly so.
jb
