Stuck PTO shaft

[JerryG]

No I would loctite the nut and never seize the shaft!! But I still hope for your sake that you do not have to dismantle it again. Put the nut and the loctite on first--otherwise you will get the never "sneeze" on the nut and the loctite will not avail.

Mike

Exactly. Just don't get it on the threads. If your like me, you will have it all over you when your done. I do every time.

Don't forget to put it on the blade pins either. I had to have one pin cut out and have one now that needs it. You have to have a very big torch to cut through that length of metal. It is a wonderful design but they need to put the never seize part in bold print in the manual.

 

[bucmeister]

Put a full coat of loctite on the threads it will work as a type of never sieze while keeping everything tight.

 

[JC-jetro]

Put a full coat of loctite on the threads it will work as a type of never sieze while keeping everything tight.

I ended up using my Dremmel tool with a grinding stone to clean up the rust. Wire brushing just bernished it. Put the new seal in and put plenty of "never seize" on the PTO coupling and few drops of "ever seize" (AKA. Loctite on the threads). Hopefully it'll stop leaking when I put it all back. I hate to revisit it again anytime soooon

JC

 

[MJPetersen]

Looks good!! 3 and a half days and your 30 minute project is done!!


Mike

 

[schmism]

so does that big nut set the preload on the bearing that holds the gear/shaft?

 

[JC-jetro]

so does that big nut set the preload on the bearing that holds the gear/shaft?

I don't think so. The big nut turns with the rotation of gear and provides backing for the shaft seal. At first I thought the nut may hold the gear in place but on further inspection It became apparent that the gear/shaft and the two cups (6) and two sleeves (3) are pressed in place. There were no adjustment I could make. Over tightening the nut (2) would squiz the seal against the sleeve causing damage to the seal. I hope I answered your question.

JC

 

[Soundguy]

Oring 'picks' are good for that sort of thing!

soundguy

Jerry, It is exactly how is shown in your pic. The problem I had was the type of spring loaded concentric snap ring they used. I could not use any snap ring compression hand tool, had to bend the tip on a small screwdriver to kind of gouge it out of there. Not very convinient at all but quite stout. it appears all the early pulling and pushing and beating did not phase it at all and the ring looks in good shape. Thanks for your inpuut.

JC

 

[bucmeister]

I can't help but wonder this, if the nut is hitting the seal before is it tight on the collar that the seal rides on then is it possible that the seal needs to be seated deeper in the housing? It would seem a nut that big and heavy is designed to hold some serious pressure on something versus being a seal protector. In looking at the top pic in your photo set I see a lip down in the housing along the outside edge, I believe that is where the seal should be seated to.

 

[JC-jetro]

I can't help but wonder this, if the nut is hitting the seal before is it tight on the collar that the seal rides on then is it possible that the seal needs to be seated deeper in the housing? It would seem a nut that big and heavy is designed to hold some serious pressure on something versus being a seal protector. In looking at the top pic in your photo set I see a lip down in the housing along the outside edge, I believe that is where the seal should be seated to.

Bucmeister,

You're perfectly correct in your statement. Perhabs I should've used more appropriate terminology when I said nut is the seal protector. On my previous post on pic #1 , you see the sleeve right next to the pto shaft thread. when I removed the old oil seal it was pretty flush or "deeply seated" with the top of the sleeve. The bottom of the big nut is perfectly flat and once you tighten it it keeps the sleeve in place. Sleeve seems to be press fitted in the cone bearing with the rollers. When the front seal started leaking my first reaction was to tighten the nut which stopped the leaking but it started back again after few weeks. Over tightening that nut pushes the sleeve against the bearing causing the shaft not rotate freely. Probably you would not want too much play there but it should be snug fit. The inner lip of the seal with the spring coil seals the oil passed the sleeve (#3 part on parts breakdown) and not actual PTO shaft. Obviously seal is not rotating but the combination pto shaft with the sleeve is. I wanted to post another more clear pic but I have technical issue with the posting site I use right now. I hope I made myself clear.


Sound guy,

O ring Picks ?? did you mean to take the seal out with that? Normally that is the preferred method. I have a set of those picks that I use for self adminstered dental work or picking rings as you mentioned. The shaft seal was pretty stout and flush with the sleeve. That left me nothing to grab to. I ended up ramming a screw driver in to it and mutilated it before I was able to retrieve it. New seal installation is a one shot deal ... you do it right or you destroy the seal. I don't reckon you can remove the seal without damaging it. It was still though when I put the new one in. It was pretty tight.. once I got it partially in, I used the main nut with the flat bottom to seat it in fully.

JC

Ps. My hosting site is back up. here is a better pic. I'll post the parts breakdown again also...

 

[MJPetersen]

Bucmeister is right in that the nut is the method by which the preload is set on the bearings. Looks just like a front wheel spindle setup (except the spindle rotates and the wheel flang stays still ).

You need to make sure that the nut does NOT rub against the seal, close but not touching. And the nut should be torqued to some setting probably given in the service manual, maybe owners manual.

The bearings and the sleeve may be pretty tight on the shaft, but there has to be a way to set preload on them and without that nut there is NO way. One thing possible.

Good call Bucmeister

Mike