studs instead of bolts ????good or bad idea

[wanab]

in swapping my rear tires around i found installing and lining up the rims to the bolt holes a little difficult and ended up lopping off the top 1/4" of my left thumb when the wheel slipped off the hub face. my cure for this was to install the bolts backwards through the hub making them studs instead of bolts and just rounded up some nuts to hold them in place,having studs sticking out to hold the rim make the tire change very easy .if you guys can think of any reason not to do this please let me know .this swap may be listed someware here and i just havent gotten to it,im very much enjoying going through all these pages and brent you were right there sure is a lot of good info here

 

[Normmm]

When lineing up something Heavy like a wheel or cylinder head and old trick is to take a bolt and cut the head from it . Also cut a screwdriver slot in the top so it can be screwed in or removed. This will serve as an alinement stud. This has saved me many smashed fingers and gaskets over the years.

I see no problem with using the bolts as studs.

Norman

 

[JeffRey30747]

On my rear wheels for the Kubota L3710, two of the fasteners are studs and nuts and the rest are bolts. Once you get two of them lined up, the rest should be close enough to put the bolts through.

Jeff

 

[mark777]

Yep, same with my Massey Ferguson....4 bolts, 2 studs.

Nothing wrong with reversed bolts on the Yanmar as long as there is sufficient stud for the new nuts/lockwashers.

Mark

 

[Soundguy]

I agree. In many places bolts and studs are interchangeable. For instance on ford tractor flathead engines.. like the 9n/2n/8n, both studs and bolts can be used. Keep in mind that the torque specs may be different for studs and bolts.. and there are some technical differences.. and issue with shoulders.. blind holes.. original intended depth, and torquing the stud into place using jambnuts.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[loaderbob]

Great Idea....

I have a two bolts that I grinded the threads off. I put them through backwards next to each other and hang the tire. I use my leg/knee to keep in on the rim until I get two bolts through other holes. Then I push them out and replace them. So far I have not had a problem with mangling the threads(knock on wood). I am going to try Norms idea, it will be safer for the threads.

Best Regards,
Bob

 

[fig]

No offence to wanab or anyone else, but why would anybody want to change out the rear tires enough to even worry about it? When I switched mine around; I jacked up the rear end by the slide in hitch just enough to get it off the ground (make sure tractor is supported while both tires are off) and rotated. Installed one tire by tilting the tractor about 1/2" to get the tire on. Once it is on the lip of the hub; you can spin the tire enough to get a bolt in.

Again; no offence; just my 2 cents.

Fig

 

[kenmac]

On my 3110D, there are 2 studs on mine to help get the wheel installed. These 2 studs do help reinstalling the wheel!

 

[wanab]

thanks guys i think im going to go with the mf 4/2 set up ,i hadnt thought about messing up a thread sliding the wheel on .its true i dont think ill be doing alot of wheel swap but if i dont guard myself from myself i would forget about this and next time repeat the same injury,thanks again for your input