Stump jumper welding

[Degolyerent]

This is some pics of repair, one shows it prepped with it 'v' cut, the next is stitching the weld, then grinding flat and then painting also is a pic of the rods I used at 105 setting on machine
Tomorrow I will pull it off and weld the other side

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Looks good. You will probably find that the cracks were on the edge of the original weld holding the disk to the blade carrier.

 

[crash325]

Another :2cents:

I see cracks extending past where you have been welding.

#1 Drill a hole at the end of each crack.

Forget 7018 unless your are a real welder, can keep it hot and dry. A good weld with 6011, 6013, or 7914 is better than a poor weld with 7918.

Best of all get a new one. Second best take it to welding shop. 3rd Best you are already doing.

 

[RoMad]

It looks like a pretty good repair to me. Hard to tell but did you always weld to the middle and not leave your craters at the edges? I would just look at it regularly and make sure you don't see any new cracks.

 

[yomax4]

I would surely drill holes at each end of the crack and weld it up with a 312 Stainless Stick Rod like Stoody Versalloy, MG 600 or Welco Super Missel Weld. 120,000# tensile with fair ductillity. 7018 or 8018 next. I fix'd a chunk that was tore away but not removed on mine. I used Versalloy for the cost and it has held well for 4 years. Just saying what worked for me. I don't think that at 800 rpm it is a huge deal. Mine runs on a 540 pto but the gear box makes it run faster..Maybe 800 Rpm's or so.. Unsure. I'm an expierienced maintenence and repair person so I don't want to put you up to something you are unsure about. . Proceed with caution.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

First, I'd chunk the rods. No name.
They're wet anyhow...you'd just have an issue with hydrogen cracking, and an AC box isn't capable of making the kind of weld you want with that rod IF they were dry. Being in an unsealed container virtually negates any strength properties they would have added.

ONLY ?800 rpm???...now lets see....that disk is about 3 in diameter. One revo means that lets see....remembering some math here. The distance around the edge is the circumferance. C=2pi(r).or pi(D). 3 x 3.14 equals about 9.4...Now we multiply 9.4 feet by 800...thats a travel speed of 7520 ft per minute. 7520 ft per minute is about 85 mph.... Now if a blade is attached to that the tip speed may be in excess of several hundred miles per hour.

Any engineer want to calculate the force of what a 10 lb(average educated guess) flying at a tangent at 85 mph can generate?

Stump jumpers aren't that expensive around a 100.00 or so for most brands...Better safe than sorry. http://www.agrisupply.com/stump-jumper-f-hp-k-k-/p/39031/cn/1900059/

 

[jake98]

I can't figure why it would have cracked to begin with, not that that helps much.

 

[LD1]

I agree that a good weld with 7014 or 6013 is better than a bad weld with 7018. And 7018 requires some specific care.

But to those of you nay-sayers, Mark @ everlast especially:

Take a good look at how that thing is put together. That stump jumper is NOT what is holding the blades on. That thick ~4" x 1.5" bar is what is holding the blades on.

The "stump-jumper" is just a disk attached to that to prevent that bat from catching a stump. But in no way is holding the blades. And with the blades bolted on through the jumper AND the bar, even it it totally cracked out, there is no way it would come off there. It just may rattle around a bit. You could actually cut that stump jumper completely off there and be just fine. As long as you were just mowing fields with no stumps ofcourse.

 

[RickB]

The "stump-jumper" is just a disk attached to that to prevent that bat from catching a stump. But in no way is holding the blades. And with the blades bolted on through the jumper AND the bar, even it it totally cracked out, there is no way it would come off there. It just may rattle around a bit.

That is the important message here. Welding a blade bar is borderline insanity, but welding a stumpjumper isn't a big deal if done correctly.
And for what it is worth, most stumpjumpers are welded assemblies including the blade bar which come at a cost of several times the suggested "$100 or so" when purchased as OEM quality parts.

 

[High Compression]

Good plan of attack with any crack, is first drill a hole on each end of the crack.

Definitely. Keeps the crack from going further after you weld it.:thumbsup: