Stump jumper welding
- Thread starter Degolyerent
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Degolyerent
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I welded the other side after cleaning up real well and I cut another 'v' drilled holes at end of cracks and welded with new box of 6011, I tried to download some pics but I am doing it from my phone and it is not working at the moment it keeps cutting off part way thru the loading process.
Anyway I stitched it in and let it cool slowly, and I put it back together with out the blades on it and ran it at 540 rpm and it ran smooth as silk. I was glad to have no balance issues, then I bolted on new blades with new bolts and nuts spun it again and it was still smooth.
I will keep a eye on it as I touch up the blades on a regular basis being I mow several hours a week and it is a lot of Bahia which is very tough grass.
Thanks for the info and the imput
John
Anyway I stitched it in and let it cool slowly, and I put it back together with out the blades on it and ran it at 540 rpm and it ran smooth as silk. I was glad to have no balance issues, then I bolted on new blades with new bolts and nuts spun it again and it was still smooth.
I will keep a eye on it as I touch up the blades on a regular basis being I mow several hours a week and it is a lot of Bahia which is very tough grass.
Thanks for the info and the imput
John
I had a brush cutter one time that had the blades bolted directly to the stump jumper. I don't remember the brand name, as I've had several different makes over the years.
It was a very heavy plate and I never had cracking problems with it, but NO WAY would I have welded it myself (except in my naive & stupid younger days).
And I would really have to have faith in a professional welding shop to do it either. That's one of those things where it's sometimes better to just bite the bullet and buy new or scrap the mower. :mur:
It was a very heavy plate and I never had cracking problems with it, but NO WAY would I have welded it myself (except in my naive & stupid younger days).
And I would really have to have faith in a professional welding shop to do it either. That's one of those things where it's sometimes better to just bite the bullet and buy new or scrap the mower. :mur:
OP
Degolyerent
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Well I have been using the cutter again for about three weeks in some pretty tough conditions and so far the welds are holding up real well, I check it after each job and so far so good
LD1
Epic Contributor
Sounds great. Nothing beats the personal satisfaction of being able to do something like that yourself:thumbsup: Good Job
Gary Fowler
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From description of your repair I would not expect you to have any problems with the repair. It should function normally for quiet some time. Fatigue cracks like you had will creep back in over time and misuse but that would be the case with new also. I cant believe the guys here saying dont repair-buy new from someone who knows what they are doing. I briefly worked in a shop when I was in my teens that built equipment and let me tell you, most of the welding done in those shops is not by "certified" welders. I have did inspection surveillance in shops World wide and the same thing applies to almost all of them. They is no welding procedure or welder testing required for structural welding. Anyone that can make a weld in flat position that wont fall off the steel when they are finished is allowed to weld. The workers are usually lower paid than certified craftsman in the trade and after welding in those little farm equipment shops for a few years will usually get certified and work at a higher paying job.
The phrase "fit for service" is better description of the work you get from those shops. That is why the welding on most farm equipment looks like crap compared to a really professional job.
I am not afraid to tackle just about any welding job but then again, I did it professionally for many years as a certified pressure welder and then many many years as welding inspector and quality manager so I know a little bit about the subject.
The phrase "fit for service" is better description of the work you get from those shops. That is why the welding on most farm equipment looks like crap compared to a really professional job.
I am not afraid to tackle just about any welding job but then again, I did it professionally for many years as a certified pressure welder and then many many years as welding inspector and quality manager so I know a little bit about the subject.
OP
Degolyerent
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I just wanted to do an update, the stump jumper finally gave up the ghost. It has been 2 years and 3 months since I welded it and I have gave it **** with some of the stuff I cut. I found a jumper on line complete w/ blades and bolts w/ nuts sold as a whole assembly sent directly from Landpride thru a company in Indiana for $318.00 plus $28 for shipping! I was amazed at the good deal because buying it locally was $420 plus tax and shipping which would put it close to $500 with no blades or bolts.
Thank god for the Internet and some research!! I put a pic of the stump jumper and some of the stuff I have cut with it. I am sure when cutting large stuff,3" or so that when the material gets hung up between the top of the stump jumper and the bottom of the mowing deck, that is what tears up the jumper. I have made a lot of money with that Landpride cutter and will be happy to put on another stump jumper especially at such a good price. I look toward to getting another few years service from it.
Thank god for the Internet and some research!! I put a pic of the stump jumper and some of the stuff I have cut with it. I am sure when cutting large stuff,3" or so that when the material gets hung up between the top of the stump jumper and the bottom of the mowing deck, that is what tears up the jumper. I have made a lot of money with that Landpride cutter and will be happy to put on another stump jumper especially at such a good price. I look toward to getting another few years service from it.
Willie B
Silver Member
In a day I only owned AC welder 1987 I bought a worn out Bush Hog 105, the stump jumper was cracked open and opened up a good 5/16" gap at each end of the blade holder. 26 years later after a life of alarming abuse, and perhaps 10 grind it out, gap it and weld it with 7018 I finally decided it was getting to be sufficiently dangerous, and enough stumps have been removed. I used acetylene torch to remove the stump jumper entirely. It works as well as ever. These things are scary, blades are heavy enough to take your head off, and they sometimes fly off at full speed. I once lost one, along with any portions of the bolt that held it. 20 years later, I've never found any of it. It is either underground, or hundreds of feet away.
Knowing now that I am a mere mortal, I would opt to replace it with new, less chance of being decapitated. They are cheaper than human life, and even cheaper than most tractor tires.
Knowing now that I am a mere mortal, I would opt to replace it with new, less chance of being decapitated. They are cheaper than human life, and even cheaper than most tractor tires.
