Stump removal

v8dave · Nov 7, 2004

Toledo4Bass, let me welcome you to TBN.

You also deserve an award of some kind for being the first new user I've seen, with under 5 to 10 posts, that has actually filled out his user profile.

Welcome aboard!

MarkV · Nov 7, 2004

Grinding stumps is a fine way to go and it was suggested earlier in the thread. Where it is a bad thing is if the area is to be built on. You don’t want a stump rotting away under your slab or concrete drive because the void it will eventually leave will be a problem some day. If no building is planned for the area I agree it would be the cheapest way to go and do the least amount of damage.

MarkV

coopers · Nov 7, 2004

MarkV is right, there will be a void eventually and if there is any plan to use that land, stump grinding is not that big of a deal. Plus, using a piece of equipment is not overkill. You just need one machine that's it. You can use a dozer, backhoe or excavator, they all work and it's been done before. The best being an excavator because of the thumb you can use and the sheer strength.

Blake
WA

markct · Nov 7, 2004

( Well, so far as I can tell, it's a four way with only the blade lift being hydraulic. The down, of course, is gravity. For my side angle I have to lift the blade, pull a pin on each side and manually turn it then pin it again. I have three options; straight, right or left. I'd guess the angle to be about thirty degrees.
)

gary, i thought almost all dozer blades could be tilted up on one corner and down on the other but im not sure, i would have to see some more pics of your blade to say for sure, but the screws you are talking about for forward to back tilt are often what changes left to right vertical tilt, by screwing one in and one out you rack the blade, our dozer has a hyd cylinder on one side to allow you to do it hydraulicly, some have just manual screws. but basicly ya turn one screw in and one screw out and it racks the blade which is a huge help to digging out stumps, take a few pics and maybe me or someone else can help ya figure out if its possible to do on your blade.

aardvark · Nov 7, 2004

I was wondering if you guys who think what I paid is expensive, can comment on the relative costs of living in your areas? I've been looking around, and I'm having problems finding skid steer operators down here who would come in and work for $65 per hour. To bring in a bigger machine for the same price, well, that seems unlikely here locally. Currently south Florida is expanding so fast, that most equipment operators have no problems finding jobs. Or at least so far as I can tell this is how it is. I'm not referring to the hurricane clean up efforts either, I just mean new construction. I'm just curious really. I just wet to Atlanta to check on my rental property this weekend, and I know for a fact, it's expensive to live down here. A 1.25 acre lot in Loxahatchee sells for around $180k. I know most places in Atlanta don't sell for anywhere near that. I suspect places that are less expensive for cost of living also have lower service costs? This just seems logical to me.

MMM · Nov 8, 2004

I was concerned about storm $gouging in the other post

40acres (50% pasture)for $40K just down the road a month ago.
$85/hr Cat225 trackhoe and operator in Aug04.
Case 680L exhoe for $680 24 enghr/ 3day rental, including delivery fee 7/03

MMM · Nov 8, 2004

Grinding is good if you just want the place to look good and don't plan to work soil.

dummy · Nov 9, 2004

you guys who think what I paid is expensive 
I wasn't trying to say that! If you're comfortable with what you paid, isn't that the most important part? Locally, an "approved building lot" varies in size from square feet to multiacreage. Average current market value $140,000.00.. . Now, IMO the more expensive an area is to live in, the more $$$ a contractor feels comfortable asking for. BUT, higher priced areas also seem to have less available because of the "Not in my backyard syndrome" ie; no vehicles parked outside of an approved shelter, no commercial vehicles allowed overnight parking, we don't want that in our neighborhood, etc. which ultimately result in higher operating and overhead costs.

btolle · Nov 12, 2004

( I just had 20 stumps removed for $190. They were all med sized stumps (aprox 20" across). The guy used a Vermeer 630 B Stump Grinder. Took them down to 3" below the surface and it took about 6 hrs. He charged a $50 set up fee and then $7 a stump. you might want to check this out before you get into the real heavy stuff!! Down here there are guys with stump grinders on every street corner ! )

Toledo4Bass, I sent you a PM (private message). In case you don't know, you can click on "My Home" at the top of this page and it will take you to a page where you can click on "Messages Received" to see the message.

Bill Tolle

LBrown59 · Dec 3, 2004

( Not sure WHERE the stumps are at and if they NEED to be REMOVED or just ground up.. you can have them ground up for pretty cheap, depending on how far the grinder guy has to go and if he is in the area and if there is enough work ect... Just thought I'd suggest that as many people may not know that you can grind a stump into the dirt and do very little damage to surrounding area.

============
Like the stump grinder idea except around here it's 100 bucks a stump. If you have like 20 to 50 stumps that's a ton of money

MarkM )