sub-soil rippers

[R W]

Reply to; MBTRAC #20
You are right, Ripping rock is a job for a ripper. Subsoiling is for a subsoiler.
The rippers shown in your post appear to be of superior quality to those shown in previous posts, especially the one in the centre,
are they made in Australia.
Although the title of this topic is sub-soil rippers, it would appear that it is more to do with rock removal than subsoiling.

 

[FredH]

Built my own a few years ago from a converted old pull disk frame that had been originally converted to a 3 disk , then my ripper . Down hill , I can pull all 8 shanks down to the box tube they are installed in . Side hill gets a little tricky , While up hill , I don't even try ,Since I have to lift it out to much to keep the TC 30 moving .






18" Shanks , 4" in tube , 2" above . Rips right at 12" deep .

Good Find Gary !! Thing is also , You get something like that for 1 project and discover it will work for others as well !! :thumbsup:

Fred H.

 

[sdef]

Down hill , I can pull all 8 shanks down to the box tube they are installed in . Side hill gets a little tricky , While up hill , I don't even try ,Since I have to lift it out to much to keep the TC 30 moving .

View attachment 390227 View attachment 390228

Fred H.

I am surprised a TC-30 can pull this fully embedded in the ground. What is your soil type?

 

[Walkin Horse]

Gary how much runway do you need to get them in the ground. I tried plowing here a couple of weeks ago and I was out room by the time the plows set deep enough. I must have adjusted it 10 times to get it to dig, and it would just skate across the ground. I bought a single shank subsoiler Thursday at an auction.But I can't pick it up til Monday.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Gary how much runway do you need to get them in the ground. I tried plowing here a couple of weeks ago and I was out room by the time the plows set deep enough. I must have adjusted it 10 times to get it to dig, and it would just skate across the ground. I bought a single shank subsoiler Thursday at an auction.But I can't pick it up til Monday.

It takes 4-5 feet in my soil to get to the max depth that I can pull them. Some of my soil is so hard and full of rocks that even with the P7010 and only 5 rippers, it wont pull them all the way down and have to make 2 passes to get to full depth.

 

[FredH]

Soil here is mostly clay type . Extremely hard in summer now that it is dry . I mean Really hard to the point that even the 757 backhoe works to dig in it . I don't rip at all in the Summer . Only mid to late spring , moisture content in soil is still up and then again in late fall / early winter for same reason . Also TC 30 is 4 wheel drive , locked in up front and load FEL with 500 to 600 pounds of rock to keep it down . That and Gravity is on my side Helps to :thumbsup: !! At 14% + in most of the field , Tractor likes the Downhill motion .
Mine is mainly used just to break up soil for Fire Break around outside perimeter of property and again on inside of fields surrounding House area . Thought about also taking all shanks out and converting One to a pipe or electrical ripper / layer that could move to any slot along frame , But as with other projects , Having time to dream is easy , But time to implement is entirely Different !! :confused3:

Fred H.

 

[sdef]

FredH: Sounds like your soil is similar to mine except I also have rocks- large ones, so many and large enough I know I can't use my Fred Cain subsoiler anywhere, as it will get hung up on a large rock; I have that rocky of soil. I think I will only be able to use the subsoiler, subsurface a bit to hopefully cut some tree roots prior to stump removal.

I do have the Agri Supply pipe/cable layer option (quality piece of equipment for the money) for the subsoiler, but have not adapted it to my subsoiler yet.

So far I have not been able to get the shanks of my 6', 710# ROBB into the ground more than a couple inches, unlike the success you and Gary can have. If the clay is wet, the tractor tires will spin and if the clay is dry the shanks only go into the ground at best a couple inches- no matter what angle I have the shanks at using the TNT. Plus my land is densely wooded and there are a LOT of large tree roots that stop me also. And like you I have a lot more success going downhill and uphill does not work much . Most of my work these days are on a fairly level surface so I do not have the downhill option anymore.

Oh well, the work is getting completed, just a lot more slowly than expected and with a lot more manual labor.

 

[MBTRAC]

Reply to; MBTRAC #20
You are right, Ripping rock is a job for a ripper. Subsoiling is for a subsoiler.
The rippers shown in your post appear to be of superior quality to those shown in previous posts, especially the one in the centre,
are they made in Australia.
Although the title of this topic is sub-soil rippers, it would appear that it is more to do with rock removal than subsoiling.

The one in the centre is an implement we build, the "wings" on the ripper shanks shatter clay substrata & flow larger rocks to the surface (the centre tyne is deliberately offset at a more acute angle to increase soil disturbance & again assists the surfacing rocks)
The 3rd yellow ripper implement is locally built, the 4x smaller ripper tynes are proprietary Caterpilar 12G Grader scarifier tynes with quick replacement points & the large single tyne is a custom unit for deep ripping & can be used as a pipelayer.

 

[crazyal]

It takes 4-5 feet in my soil to get to the max depth that I can pull them. Some of my soil is so hard and full of rocks that even with the P7010 and only 5 rippers, it wont pull them all the way down and have to make 2 passes to get to full depth.

That's the type of ripper I'm going to make (who has free time though) with the idea that I could just remove or raise up some of the shanks if I couldn't pull it. I figure that using the ripping shanks from my grading scrapper it wouldn't cost much at all.