JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
I am considering getting a sub-soiler to help with water runoff.
Is 24hp enough to get it down 12" into hardpack.??
Is 24hp enough to get it down 12" into hardpack.??
Sub-Soiler; Depth and Hp.??....
- Thread starter JDGreenGrass
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bp fick
Super Member
I can bury mine with only 18 hp. But I do not have the soil you have there in Maine. No one can say for certain because they will not have your exact soil, but if you have traction, 24 ponies ought to do the job. You may wish to break down to 8" all over. Then, go back and send it further down to 12"
chipsndust
Platinum Member
I have trenched deeper than 12" (16" - 18") with a subsoiler and my 2305 (24hp) with no problem, but I didnt get down to hardpan. I think you should be able to do it, if you make two or three passes. My problem was rocks and roots.
kthompson
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I have subsoiler that will run down near two feet. In one field it never touches any hardpan. If you really want to know if you have hardpan and the depth and also thickness use post hole digger.
Are you wanting to break up or crack the hardpan so water will drain through it? If you have water sitting on the ground it can be a good indication there is a hardpan there and based upon my experience a good indication it will be a pain to break up. I pull two shanks with 68 HP and have had to drop back to one in fresh dirt and then had my hands full breaking up hardpan caused by setting water. Was worth the work for it did help the drainage a good bit. It also can help roots reach water but needs to be done before rains hit.
If you have a small area or corner a post hole digger can also break it up for you.
Are you wanting to break up or crack the hardpan so water will drain through it? If you have water sitting on the ground it can be a good indication there is a hardpan there and based upon my experience a good indication it will be a pain to break up. I pull two shanks with 68 HP and have had to drop back to one in fresh dirt and then had my hands full breaking up hardpan caused by setting water. Was worth the work for it did help the drainage a good bit. It also can help roots reach water but needs to be done before rains hit.
If you have a small area or corner a post hole digger can also break it up for you.
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ayelvington
Gold Member
I have a Kubota BX-24 and use the Tractor Supply Company sub-soiler into a lot of clay. Baby does it, but you have to keep an eye on the temp guage. I'm probably going down at least 12" into clay. I subsoiled the same section of field three times, disced it several times, and then rototilled it; all in all it's made a tremendous difference. I followed up with buckwheat this summer, and I have winter rye in there now. Keep the faith!
Tom_H
Veteran Member
Weighted rear wheels AND ballast on the sub-soiler both help. See pics attached to the post at this link:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/148963-post-hole-digger-warning-6.html#post1771314
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/148963-post-hole-digger-warning-6.html#post1771314
chrisjbell
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Your HP won't be as big an issue as your weight. Tires will want to slip. If your tractor is weighted well then you'll hit the HP issue...and then, as suggested, you make multiple passes. Don't starve your engine for fuel when you're doing this, and black smoke is fine when a diesel is under heavy load.
D7E
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We used to subsoil every 3 years to break hardpan at 18 inches to 2 feet with a 2 leg subsoiler and i liked at least 85hp to do it properly and at a reasonable speed, I'll agree with the grip issue if the top is loose..the 85hp with fwa was sometimes better than a 6cyl 100hp 2wd...
If you have rocks sometimes a 2wd or lighter/underpowered tractor is good and will spin the tyres or die out rather than wreck the machine when you hit a rock.
If you have rocks sometimes a 2wd or lighter/underpowered tractor is good and will spin the tyres or die out rather than wreck the machine when you hit a rock.
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bigdad
Platinum Member
Very interesting information to a Rookie like me. Thanks!
I don't think you need WEIGHT on it as much as proper top link length to get it to the right angle to sink in.
I agree with the thought that less tractor, less force, less weight, less speed, etc resulting in tire spin might be better than more - resulting in damage when you find rocks and/or roots.
A lot probably depends on the depth to which your ground has been previously "cleared".
The lighter tractor is in any case leading to less compaction as you are DOING this (-:
Try it, it might take a couple or three passes, next time it will probably take a pass fewer.
Who knows, you MIGHT get to loosen the soil less than you compact it, eventually.
I agree with the thought that less tractor, less force, less weight, less speed, etc resulting in tire spin might be better than more - resulting in damage when you find rocks and/or roots.
A lot probably depends on the depth to which your ground has been previously "cleared".
The lighter tractor is in any case leading to less compaction as you are DOING this (-:
Try it, it might take a couple or three passes, next time it will probably take a pass fewer.
Who knows, you MIGHT get to loosen the soil less than you compact it, eventually.