Gord Baker
Gold Member
It could be a leaky foot valve. Call an expert and get his opinion.
Submersible well pump went out, thoughts?
- Thread starter rangerfredbob
- Start date
I would only buy an American-made pump if you can find one. That is too much labor to do it again because of a cheap pump. AND! Check the pipe from the pump when you pull it. Many installers use PVC and it has been known to crack due to the torque of the pump. If cracked, it could be leaking inside the well. When I replace mine I plan to use PEX.
aircommuter
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2012
- Messages
- 508
- Location
- coulterville,ca
- Tractor
- case 570lxt, JCB 1550B, Gradall 534c, Hyster C612B,Ford 445A
Not sure of your well output and other factors. I like the Grundfos constant pressure pump system. Uses less power and the pressure and flow is steady. Low starting torque also. Might be worth looking into.
jedigene
New member
Sounds like the pump impeller is coming apart. Usually you start getting what the well drillers call chicken feathers in faucets and etc. I had that problem a few years ago and had to have the well pulled and they replaced the pump. Not the motor. If the impeller isn't pumping enough you would loose pressure as well. If you are planning on pulling the motor yourself, I don't know what to tell you about the motor purchase. Good luck
Sounds partially plugged or wore out if you had sand problem.
DieselBound
Elite Member
I'm thinking that jedigene has the most likely call. Impellers wear, especially if they're seeing lots of sand/grit: note that in this case you want to pull the pump up more, if possible (depends on draw-down and static levels). Foot valve also a high-suspect target.
To the person saying that 3/4hp was too big- no, that's a reasonable size. Depends on static water level to ground level (and then, again, the draw-down rate).
To the person saying that 3/4hp was too big- no, that's a reasonable size. Depends on static water level to ground level (and then, again, the draw-down rate).
ponytug
Super Member
Great points. It also depends on how far and how high the water has to go after it comes out of the well.
Hard to know at a distance, with more details.
All the best,
Peter
But the best and have a happy wife! Monarch or jacuzzi
Carl_NH
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Messages
- 3,267
- Location
- Coastal NH
- Tractor
- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
Per the OP "after the well casing there's a stainless check valve, a flow restrictor, then a centrifugal sand filter with auto drain cycle (sand wore out the seals, need to address that but those things are dumb expensive...), then goes to the pressure tank (says 84 gal total capacity, it's over 5' tall), then a sock filter, then a pleated filter, then the water softener then a 5 micron filter then to the house."
This is not a straight forward system with a sand separation system inline with the pump and lots of filters. Many potential points to cause problems. With the setup being - 1 pump > 2 sand filter in series > 3 pressure tank > 4 Sock filter > 5 In line pleated filter > 6 water softener > and finally the 5Micron filter > then to house supply
I agree the sand likely wore out the pump, thus low amperage as well (not pumping much water). As suggested raise or lift the pump out of the sand if possible say 10-15 ft then run the new pump not connected to anything to see how clear the water is.
Also OP stated pressure tank pre charge is set at 35 PSI, and pump switch set at 20 PSI on / 30 PSI off, which if this is the case, the bladder tank will never fill with water. The pre charge pressure needs to be 18PSI with a 20 PSI switch cut in. This likely caused the pump to turn on/off all the time when water is drawn.
So raising the pump above the sand if possible, and getting the pressure switch and tank set correctly is a good starting point. The sand separation system and filters are another matter to resolve - not a simple system!
This is not a straight forward system with a sand separation system inline with the pump and lots of filters. Many potential points to cause problems. With the setup being - 1 pump > 2 sand filter in series > 3 pressure tank > 4 Sock filter > 5 In line pleated filter > 6 water softener > and finally the 5Micron filter > then to house supply
I agree the sand likely wore out the pump, thus low amperage as well (not pumping much water). As suggested raise or lift the pump out of the sand if possible say 10-15 ft then run the new pump not connected to anything to see how clear the water is.
Also OP stated pressure tank pre charge is set at 35 PSI, and pump switch set at 20 PSI on / 30 PSI off, which if this is the case, the bladder tank will never fill with water. The pre charge pressure needs to be 18PSI with a 20 PSI switch cut in. This likely caused the pump to turn on/off all the time when water is drawn.
So raising the pump above the sand if possible, and getting the pressure switch and tank set correctly is a good starting point. The sand separation system and filters are another matter to resolve - not a simple system!