Thanks for all the suggestions! I think for my purposes, which is just for night-time snow removal, I will just use the 2" magnetic mount on the ROPS, with lights plugged into a 12V power outlet (which I want to add anyway). This way, I can remove it when not in use.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty. )</font>
You're joking, right? The warranty is not what protects you in a rollover, the steel is.
I'm a structural engineer and would not hesitate to drill small holes in the ROPS for lights.
( If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty.
You're joking, right? The warranty is not what protects you in a rollover, the steel is.
I'm a structural engineer and would not hesitate to drill small holes in the ROPS for lights.
I agree 100%. Kubota says that to keep their "rumps" covered because you KNOW that if they say drilling it is A-OK...that some jerk-wad is going to go after it with a 1 1/2" hole saw and "swiss cheese" it to death. <font color="blue"> </font> <font color="red"> </font>
Just finished a simple light bar on my b2630. Constructed with 1 peice of white plastic plumbing pipe, 2 toggle switches, 3 Grote rubber work lights rated at 35 watts/ 2.7 amps each, and some tie wraps. No drilling on tractor required. One toggle switch turns on the front lights, the other does the rear light. -Doug
Speaking of connections, is there any existing wiring that could be used on a BX23 for lights? I hear of an existing 12V connector under the seat of some other tractors. I don't have the shop manual yet, but in the engine compartment, there is an unused socket coming out of the wiring loom, around the top of the engine. What is that for?
(Kuboto L3400) (Ford 1900 4WD w/FEL) (Deere X748SE) All bought new
Call me extravagent but I bought Kubota lights. They come with nifty painted brakets and square U bolts so no drilling is required. They also have a switch on them which is nice since the spare wiring for external lights is hot when the key is on rather than with the light switch. I thought that a bit odd.
Under the seat there are two blank "pigtails" which are ignition-on 12 volt leads. I used this 12 volt source for power and spliced into the tail light lead for the switch side of the relay. So, when I turn on the "headlights" my work lights come on too. They also go off if I turn off the ignition switch.
See where I mounted my relay on my website in the previous post.