Suggestions on shaker motor for topsoil screener

[Larry_Van_Horn]

John and Have Blue,
I think I understand this, but not quite. Pretty simple no? Excuse my ignorance, but what is a wrist pin, How would I size the pulleys?
Larry

 

[Larry_Van_Horn]

Maybe someone can clarify this for me.
1. I take the motor gas or electirc, How do I figure out the size?
2. On the motor shaft I mount a pulley (I presume I would use a large one here)?
3. Run a belt to another pulley mounted on the shaker frame
4. Mount a shaft with pillow blocks and put the pulley on the frame.
5. What will make the shaft on the shaker vibrate? DO I need some off center rotating do dad?
Thanks for the clarification.
Larry

 

[ges]

I'm not sure why I'm typeing this as most of it is way too big for you, but you might get one little idea out of it to help your idea. ( which I think is a great project by the way).

We, at work, run shakers to empty coal cars. The cars are opened at the bottom, over a pit. The shakers, usually 2 sometimes 3 in winter, are lowered onto the car and shaked. Takes about 2 minutes to empty a 100 ton car.

The shake out part of the shaker has an encetric shaft in it, like what some here said as a crankshaft or cam shaft, only about 8" in dia. Yes again, the bearings are very strong. At the end of the shaft is a pully for a belt.

On top of the shake out is a halo frame. This halo frame only makes connection to the shake out at the 4 corners via springs and cups.

On the halo is where the electric motor is mounted and connected by the vee belt. ( about 40 h.p.)

When the motor first starts, the torq. and twist of the motor is obsorbed by the belt and springs. The motor sees very little vibration from the shaker. The pulleys are almost the same size by design of the shaker. The shaker was designed to run at 1750 rpm and acrossed the line starting is o.k. in this applacation.

We also use air operated vibrating feeders, (big stuff) when loading a boat. They work fine.

However, what I think would work good for your project is the vibrators that we use to keep the shutes from plugging up. We have them in different sizes, mounted (bolted) right on the structure and depending on the size, wired with a 110 volt plug, or a 110 volt reostat control unit. Small, self contained, all moving inside, no belts. Good for testing your welding ability. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Whew..............I'm done. Hope something helped, George

 

[bobodu]

I envision a steam locomotive.Whereas the sliding cylindar rod would attach to the frame and the other end of the rod attaching to a large pulley, NOT TOO FAR off center.Belt that to a smaller pulley on a GAS motor (5 hp)so you can control speed.

 

[slowrev]

Tractornut,
Yeah that was my idea too a wobblebox off of an old sickle mower. I have one off of an old JD sickle mower, now I know what to use it for /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Taylortractornut]

I thought of another way to make a shaker yesterday I had to go weld on a gravel shaker at a local pit. One of the shakers was a steel frame with a wobble box to the tenth power mounded under it. then on top of the frame they had another frame that the screen was mounted on. The screens frame was hinged on one in and the shaft off the wobble box came up and tapped the bottom of its frammed cousing it to jump up and down. It did have a hevey grate on top of the hole thing that slanted off to the side it was to divert snad stones and clinkers the big gravel chunks. They also used it to screen a few topsoil piles.

 

[have_blue]

I think an electric jackhammer would work, but how long is another question. There may be some real HD ones that could withstand extended use. The housing would have to be secured very rigidly or I bet it would shake itself to death within a few days of steady use.

 

[Larry_Van_Horn]

Based on what you all have suggested I think I will try and find a big block camshaft and use that driven by a motor. I am wondering if I might be able to get by with a 1.5 HP one.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( John and Have Blue,
I think I understand this, but not quite. Pretty simple no? Excuse my ignorance, but what is a wrist pin, How would I size the pulleys? )</font>
Larry, I'm afraid I am terrible at trying to describe an idea such as this to someone else. If I were doing it, I'd start with my idea and mull over it for quite a while until I figured exactly how everything would go. Since I'm not actively building it, I'm not actively racking my poor weak brain for the exact set up. Think of the shape of the crankshaft and how you could set it up to take advantage of the way it could rock something. I'll try to think it out, but I doubt I could transfer the idea to you well. I have a pretty good imagination for these things, but no talent in explaining them to others, sorry. John
EDIT: I just thought of something else. You might be able to use not only the washing machine motor, but the transmission as well. You know the action of an agitator, right? Hook it all up and gear it, with pulleys, to make that motion move your shaker box. Not sure it would work, but that's where I'd begin probably. John

 

[PaulT]

Ok,

I've tried to (crudely) draw what I think is being described. I know I succeeded on the crude part, and I think I succeeded on the overall concept.

The green boxes are the motor.
The red boxes are the pulleys. (connect these two with a belt)
The yellow is the crankshaft from an old lawnmower
The Blue are the pillow bearings
The grey is a connecting rod that fits on the crankshaft
The purple is a "nub" - (the wrist pin described earlier)
The black is a platform/frame to hold it all (stable and solid)

The part that is most difficult will be the grey connecting rod. In an engine, this is bathed in oil at all times, and the places where it contacts the crankshaft and the wrist pin have passages that provide oil under pressure. Without this oil, it would seize pretty quickly. Of course, you could use the crankcase/oil pan and have it spinning in an oil bath at the bottom, with some sort of baffle to keep the oil from splattering. At the top, you could use a greased ball bearing setup. Maybe weld another pillow bearing on this and use grease and grease fittings to keep it lubed. In fact, that might work for the crank/rod bearing as well. then you wouldn't need the oil bath. Just some thoughts.