Suggestions

[steveessie]

I am putting a barrel wood stove in my pole barn. I will be putting the piping out one of the windows (rather than cutting a hole through the walls). The window is a typical pole barn double window separated by a 2x6 (one window on the inside of the garage - one window on the outside - 2x6 between as framing).

Do I just need to frame with 2x4's (or 2x6's) between the windows and then attach a fire proof type of material with a hole in it to put the piping out? What type of material would that be?

Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[steveessie]

Also wondering if fire rated sheet rock is sufficient as a fire barrier on the walls next to the stove? Thanks again.

 

[Ted Summey]

A photo would be very helpful in seeing what you need.

 

[steveessie]

A photo would be very helpful in seeing what you need.

It would look something like this on the inside and the outside of the building. A slider window.

Google Image Result for http://www.pole-barn.info/images/37-windows.jpg

 

[/pine]

...then attach a fire proof type of material with a hole in it to put the piping out? What type of material would that be?

I would look at a refractory panel...if you're going to use a double or triple flue you can probably get by with something less

You could also consider casting your own with portland and fireclay with re-enforcing

 

[Rustyiron]

What ever you do, keep it to code. I'm not a fan of bldg. "codes" but in the case of a chimney pipe, if you were ever need to make an insurance claim......... they have people just looking for a reason to not pay a claim & for a few bucks extra at installation, prolly well spent.

 

[6011Artist]

just to be safe I would take the entire window out to have a bigger area of safe material. As far as wallboard/sheetrock, I thought as long as you were 4' away you'd be safe from ignition. I have a 2x4 framed wall & metal sheeting boat shed with a wood heater and we've had the sides of the barrel heater cherry red and the wall 4' away hasn't ignited, although I was sitting there with a hose just in case. It wasn't intentional but since it happened, I figured it a pretty good test.

For safety sake if you are concerned you can make a sheet metal deflector to stand between your heater and wall. Let it curve and freestand, will keep the heat directly off your wall. I'd just move the heater far enough out to not have to worry.

 

[davedj1]

I would take the window out of the frame, put up a piece of sheet metal with hole for chimney.
The above suggestion would be a good idea for behind the stove, air space is key.

 

[6011Artist]

davedj,I didn't suggest the sheet metal waiting for others to chime in to see what they do to pass code.

Sheet metal will work fine, you don't want heavy thick plate, it will hold heat longer, the thin sheet metal won't get as hot.

 

[CurlyDave]

I would re-visit the entire out-the-window concept.

Visit a wood stove retailer and get some advice (free) on out-the-window vs. through-the-roof installations.

IMHO going through the roof is much easier, cheaper, and easier to comply with code. As an alternative go out through the wall, not the window.

In most jurisdictions, you can not use triple-wall venting inside living spaces, but must use it outside.

You will have much more freedom of placement of the stove with a roof vent, plus you won't lose the window.

Whatever you do, use a store-bought, pre-engineered solution for the penetration instead of a home-made one.

 

[davedj1]

Codes smodes! I know, times have changed and you are correct in doing a safe and code compliant installation. Years ago we would run regular old stove pipe through a square hole cut in the side of a T1-11 siding with a piece of stove pipe gauge tin over the hole, a 6" hole cut in the middle and a bunch of small holes punched around the 6" hole to help dissipate the heat. Never had a problem but that was way before codes and people telling what you could and couldn't do on your own property.
Through the roof is a good way to go for ease of stove placement.
Are barrel stoves compliant?

 

[yomax4]

As stated above, The fireplace shops have the adapter you need. I just did one in my cabin but went out the roof. ( easy to clean pipe ) Where you go through the wall or roof you use that adapter and that metalbestos pipe. If you have a recycle yard in your area you can often find metalbestos pipe in great shape for very little $$. Good Luck.

 

[steveessie]

As stated above, The fireplace shops have the adapter you need. I just did one in my cabin but went out the roof. ( easy to clean pipe ) Where you go through the wall or roof you use that adapter and that metalbestos pipe. If you have a recycle yard in your area you can often find metalbestos pipe in great shape for very little $$. Good Luck.

Did you use the black stove pipe (like at Menards, Lowes, HD)? Or id you get your pipe some place else? The black stove pipe is EXPENSIVE.

 

[tommu56]

Did you use the black stove pipe (like at Menards, Lowes, HD)? Or id you get your pipe some place else? The black stove pipe is EXPENSIVE.

I framed up a section of wall at my cabin with a 18" square opening and laid red brick up 4 courses put a 6" clay thimble through put brick around and over it flashed it out side correctly and it has been fine for 30 some years.

I slid the smoke pipe through the thimble and hook every thing up.

Yes it also heaver gauge (thicker) then the cheap duct pipe in the big box stores.
I tried the duct at my cabin and it only lasted a year the black pipe lasted 4 years.
This is with old STOTZ double drum kit I don't know what i will do if it ever brakes I haven't seen them around in a awhile the TSC cast ones just aren't as good as the stamped steel Stotz ones


tom