supertech 10w30 full syn oil

   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil #11  
I have always used ATF for cleaning out old gas engines, it is amazing what builds up over the years. A strong magnet on the filter helps too.
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I've spent too much time on BITOG, so now I'm a big fan of diesel oils. I'd think a better oil would be almost any 10W30 conventional diesel oil with a reasonably recent API rating. I'm sure you can find a VOA for supertech syns on BITOG, and in general they are OK but nothing special.
I run conventional rotella in the summer in my gas cars, and often 0W40 in the winter, or whatever synthetic is on sale, diesel or gas, with no issues.

down here in florida, no 10w30 c rated oil on the shelf.. nor have a seen 0w40 c rated either. 5w40 'c' synth is common and 5w20 's'

i could 'order' it... but not really worth it..

soundguy
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Motorcraft also makes a semi-synthetic 10w-30. :)

but it's not sold anywhere I know of here.. :)

i can get their 5w20 semi synth though..

soundguy
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil
  • Thread Starter
#14  
WM 10w-30 synthetic as worked well for us but have moved to 5w-40 Rotella for use on the place. To clean up the old Ford 300 six engine I had the place in town to use 15w-40 Rotella since the engine is dirty and 30 years old. Diesel class seems to have more detergent from what I read.

I use Sea Foam for the last 50 or so miles to cut the crud and clean the ring groves a little better. Put in 1.5 oz per quart of oil and new oil will look dirty in a short order I find.

To clean up a dirty engine we have had luck changing the filter every hundred miles or so AFTER the first oil change. By changing them COLD the it seems more of the heavy stuff may be trapped inside of the filter.

This is can work out where you have to drive something home but really have no way to do a complete oil change. A gallon ice cream bucket with a lid is awesome in that it will catch the dripping oil and filter and you can put the lid back on to reduce risk of spilling it.

A really dirty filter may have been by passing for years and a filter only change will get a working filter in place again. There are under $5 options at WM, etc that will work fine for this approach.

I am thinking older gas engines when writing this.

yep.. btdt, and used the atf.

keep in mind I have had 15w40 c rated oil in this for this summer. when i first got her and tar came out I ran some supertech 10w30 and atf thru her with a 2$ st8a oil fitle ron and ran her till warmend, and changed the dark oil out.. probably should have added a quart of atf to it's previous oil change... or added some seafoam midways after the change... or mmo.. etc. soemthing with some solvents.. or an upper cyl lube even.

will be for sure doing it now...

soundguy
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil #15  
Not sure I would do this today or not but remember from time to time Dad would drain the oil, fill with heater oil, pull the coil and bring up the oil pressure a bit with the starter. It would let it set for a few minutes and repeat a couple more times. It would come out darker than when it went in.:thumbsup:

I love Sea Foam but at $8 a can/$50 a gallon so does the makers. :laughing: I picked up two gallons the other day with winter coming on. I like to park the MH with at least 1 oz per gallon mix and that alone is .5 gallons.

The thing about using ATF in crankcase or fuel tank I am not sure what friction multipliers do when it comes to wear?
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil
  • Thread Starter
#16  
use type F

soundguy
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil #17  
valve stems were heavilly gunked up and glued in place, bending my intake pushrods..


I had previously had 15w50 c rated oil in it, but only had done 1 other change on it since getting it.. menaing lots of gunk was liekly left over from the prev owners lack of maint.

I've had good luck flushing older engines with Amsoil engine flush. Considering how much gunk may still be in there, this seems like a good idea for your situation. I would install a new filter and fill the crankcase with a inexpensive conventional oil. Run the engine up to operating temp then add the bottle of flush. Run that a little above idle (say 1000 rpm) for about 20 minutes, then drain. It will come out totally black and thin as water. Change the filter, fresh oil and you are good to go.
 
   / supertech 10w30 full syn oil
  • Thread Starter
#18  
doubt I can get it around here woithout special order.

i think silo makes an engine flush though.

soundguy
 

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