I've spent too much time on BITOG, so now I'm a big fan of diesel oils. I'd think a better oil would be almost any 10W30 conventional diesel oil with a reasonably recent API rating. I'm sure you can find a VOA for supertech syns on BITOG, and in general they are OK but nothing special.
I run conventional rotella in the summer in my gas cars, and often 0W40 in the winter, or whatever synthetic is on sale, diesel or gas, with no issues.
Motorcraft also makes a semi-synthetic 10w-30.![]()
WM 10w-30 synthetic as worked well for us but have moved to 5w-40 Rotella for use on the place. To clean up the old Ford 300 six engine I had the place in town to use 15w-40 Rotella since the engine is dirty and 30 years old. Diesel class seems to have more detergent from what I read.
I use Sea Foam for the last 50 or so miles to cut the crud and clean the ring groves a little better. Put in 1.5 oz per quart of oil and new oil will look dirty in a short order I find.
To clean up a dirty engine we have had luck changing the filter every hundred miles or so AFTER the first oil change. By changing them COLD the it seems more of the heavy stuff may be trapped inside of the filter.
This is can work out where you have to drive something home but really have no way to do a complete oil change. A gallon ice cream bucket with a lid is awesome in that it will catch the dripping oil and filter and you can put the lid back on to reduce risk of spilling it.
A really dirty filter may have been by passing for years and a filter only change will get a working filter in place again. There are under $5 options at WM, etc that will work fine for this approach.
I am thinking older gas engines when writing this.
valve stems were heavilly gunked up and glued in place, bending my intake pushrods..
I had previously had 15w50 c rated oil in it, but only had done 1 other change on it since getting it.. menaing lots of gunk was liekly left over from the prev owners lack of maint.