Surgery begins, splitting the TC24DA.

[TCBoomer]

Joe...JC is right...poke a hole in the seal and pull it out. What i did was used a dental pick with a hook and just gave it a swift yank. The seals are not that tightly fitted. and BTW>>>dont bother to remove the steering column...total waste of time I found out after. I too looked into splitting the case when I couldnt get the hub off prior to gettin the crows foot. Splittin that case is a whole lot more work than what U may think...leave it alone!!! <G>

So I take it your hub wasn't that tight? Maybe bcuz yours had the hrs and mine was new? I clearly remember how tight mine was!!! Good job on comin up with a tool!! As for installation of the new seals...I used a piece of pvc pipe I had kicking around. 1 1/4" maybe? lol CRS and all that! Just match up the seal size to a piece of pipe. Try to stay close to the outside diam of the seal, yet still fit into the case opening AND fit over the input shaft. It doesnt take much effort to seat them just keep them straight and not cocked.

I told U the PO said U should get the seals by Monday the latest, but I just realized Monday is a holiday. Maybe you'll get lucky and see them today? or maybe not til Tues?

Your doin a great job so far!!...keep us informed. Id like to see that tool U made out of the wrench...can U post a pic?

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

A buddy of mine showed me a trick for seal removal. Shoot 4 scres in the seal. Course threaded drywall screws seem to work well. Then, you can put a pair of vise grips on the head of the screw and take a hammer and tap on the vise grips. Put a screw at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock......

make sense? clear as mud?

 

[JSUnlimited]

Yeah, I'm planning to take some more pics of the tool and, etc. I had some things going on yesterday and ran out of time to get pics. I'm working today and when I get home in the am, I'll post some.

The sleeve was snug however it came off without a fight.

You said earlier that there were two seals? Are they in front of one another? I guess I'll see when I get them out.

Also, I noticed very slight play side to side on that shaft. When I mean slight, it is microscopic, (sp? Can't think of another word to say). I really had to push on it with my hand to notice it. I don't think there is a bearing problem. I'm sure it's normal, within tolerance. I still say that it was the loose bellhousing bolts that caused the problem. The two studs at the bottom of the bellhousing had some of the threads flattened where the two haves were wearing on them. I'll get some pics of those and I ordered new ones anyways.

Oh yeah, I have a whole assortment of picks and I thought that was the way to go. Flathead, that is a good idea with the screws however there is not much room to get in there between the shaft and the opening.

 

[TCBoomer]

Joe...yes there are 2 seals. A primary and a secondary. They both look the same but one is thicker than the other. IIRC...the thicker one is first (inner) and then the thinner one (outer). Just note which is which when U remove them.Since it was 4 or 5 yrs ago, and the only NH that I ever split, I dont remember every detail...plus being my mind is preoccupied by someone else ...doesnt help either.

and yes the play in the input shaft is normal, so dont be concerned about it. Im sure theres a spec somewhere stating what it is if U need to know. If U want to verify that nothing is wrong...use a dial indicator to measure the play and post it here. I'll see if I can find a spec or maybe someone like RickB or ?? can comment...he's a NH tech...I'm not.

I'd be WTB the seal leak most likely was caused by the loose bell hsng bolts...IIRC U have a backhoe correct? If so, that puts an extra load on the drivetrain and my have contributed to the loosening of the bolts. If it was my machine...I'd use loctite on those bolts when reassembled to insure they remain secure....all of this is just my opinion, others may not agree.

btw...I agrre with what U say about limited room for access to the seal and with that said...I'd be leary tryin to run a screw into the seal and risking possible damage to something. As I said previously...the seals are not that tightly fitted and are easily removed and installed.

 

[JSUnlimited]

Good afternoon gentlemen!

Well some progress has been made! Friday I made the "custom" crows foot and on Saturday I recieved the generous gift from TCBoomer in the mail. I have been a little sick so I've been moving a bit slow. Plus, I have a new addition to the family....I new Jack Russell puppy named Buddy.

Here he is....

 

[JSUnlimited]

I discovered that the input shaft sleeve was closer to 1-5/8" in size. I'm sure is was really metric but oh well the standard size worked.

I went to TSC and bought a set of larger wrenches. It was $49.99 for one individual 1-5/8" wrench or $69.99 for a whole set that ranged in size from 1"-2". I bought the whole set that way I'd have some larger sizes for whatever I may need.

I cut the end off the needed wrench and welded on a old broken 1/2" drive extension I had.

 

[JSUnlimited]

The seals were removed and using dental picks, they came out easy. I cleaned up everything and inserted the new ones. TCBoomer was correct in that the thick one went in first and then was followed by the thinner one. I covered the splined section of the input shaft with tape and with a light coat of grease on everything. I had no problems getting the seals in using an old piece of PVC pipe.....thank God!

A couple of pics.....

I forgot to take some pics of the seals before insertion. I can get some of the old ones if anyone wants to see them.

 

[JSUnlimited]

Heres the studs I was telling you guys about. It probably hard to see in this pic, however a bit of the threads are flattened from where there was vibration between the clutch case and the engine block. Not only were the nuts loose, but they were loose inside the clutch case as well.

They are going to be replaced with new ones. Loctite of course during reassembly!

 

[JSUnlimited]

I stopped at the dealer a little bit of go and bought all of the filters (hydro., eng. oil, air, fuel, etc.) and oil as well. $240.00! At this point I'm at about the $500.00 mark! Still cheaper than if the dealer did it I'm sure. It's not running yet!

I also borrowed thier alignment tool for the clutch.

I'm heading out now to get the engine side taken care of. I need to clean up the back side of the block, which includes roughing up the freeze plugs and getting some paint on them as there is a bit of rust. They are not leaking, just surface rust. Also someone mentioned that they thought one was dented....not the case, it looked that way in the pictures. I'm going to replace the rear main seal, clean the flywheel, replace the clutch disk, and clean up and assemble the rest of the clutch assembly.

I should be getting her slid back together by this evening and hopefully running tommorrow.

The wife took the camera to work today to show the girls some puppy pics. I may get my mothers camera to catch some of the progress. If not, pretty much working now in reverse!

Talk soon!

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

this trick may help you.......grandpa showed it to me for when you are mating a transmission to a bell housing/block/etc....

the factory usually gives you some permanent aligning pins but they are short, etc.....

take two longer bolts that thread in to the housing........cut the hex head off with a grinder or reciprocating saw......dress the cut down and bevel the edges....then, take a hacksaw or something and cut a slit in the bolt, where you removed the hex head......thread these in to the block/bell housing and use them as alignment pins.....start a few of your other bolts then take a screwdriver to back out your alignment pins and then thread in your factory bolts.....

make sense? i can post a pick of some of mine.....i have several sets......