Superduper said:Because the cap unscrews, how would you remove it if there is a fuel line attached to it?
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1/4 turn connector? Quick connect coupler? The options are endless and vary with the amount you want to spend!
jb
Superduper said:Because the cap unscrews, how would you remove it if there is a fuel line attached to it?
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Superduper said:Well, the tank is plastic. Getting a backup nut in there might not be so easy as the filler is at an angle (not straight down) and the gascap mod is not practical. Because the cap unscrews, how would you remove it if there is a fuel line attached to it? Ciderman: cutting and rewelding sounds interesting but I have zero experience with a plastic welder and a fuel cell might not be something I'd like to start experimenting on. In the past, my attempts to weld with something other than the correct tool results in nothing more than making ugly holes in plastic. Seems plastic likes to shrink. Oh, BTW, the tank is one of those fitted/molded plastic tanks that looks like it was blow molded in place, flat pancake shape. Need to remove, rear seat, fenders which wraps around and the foot rests, etc to get at it. Will take another look later. Thanks guys for all the great info. A collection of brains is always better than a single one.
Superduper said:Mike: Great suggestion. The only thing is that I don't think a bukhead fitting on the filler tube would work because I haven't found any that would mount to a round surface, only a flat surface. I think the neck is like 4" long.
Matt_Jr said:Didn't mean to be a naysayer. Just putting out some things that you should think about and why engineers do what they do. It is totally possible to put in a "T" fitting. I just wouldn't recommend it. My previous posts are based on theory, not imaginary perpetual motion machines that drive 18hp diesel tractors. What I said is fuel pumps carry more fuel up to the injector pump than the engine needs. The fuel that is not used "usually" goes back to the tank. The only way for the T fitting to work that I can think of is have the lifter pump in the tank and a relief valve in there to allow the extra fuel to go back into the tank unless the lifter pump is of low enough pressure that it doesn't risk getting burned up. I have seen too many times blocked fuel filters that cause high amperage of electrical flow through the pump that causes the pump to fail. The scraper pan that Soundguy mentioned has very long lines capable of cooling the fuel. But he also said "depends on application". About the cavitation....Only something to consider. Like I said "theory". I want to see posts that tell how stong the tractor is when completed. As an automotive diagnostician I use theory I learned in physics more than I crack open the books to make my money. I fix stuff others have given up on. I'm not saying stuff won't work and all you'll have is problems, just tryin' to point out what those problems could be before they occur. Now about that perpetual fuel multiplier machine, I think I'm gonna go out to my shop and start drawing up plans and hire a patent lawyer. I think soundguy just clued me in on a way to make my prius get better mileage![]()