Switching side to side

[Oldoak]

......................................
Since I posted I have realized that ONE way to align the studs is to rotate the opposite wheel the opposite direction - the differential
will then give us the needed rotation.

Yep, that works great.

Just got around to reading this thread. Between yesterday and today, been busy widening the rears (loaded 14.9 x 26) on my L5060. That method to align the studs and my new H.F. shop crane similar to the one in Xfaxman's picture worked great.

 

[Texasmark]

I've changed the same sized tire, 50 gallons of fluid in each alone with nothing but the nut removing device, a 2x4 block of wood and a crow (wrecking) bar....about 3' long, popular at any construction supplier...Lowes, Home Depot, HF.

The key is keep the tires vertical, meaning no more than a few degrees of leaning. I figure where I am going to roll them (concrete floor) and prop up before I remove them.

I made a stand out of 2x2 square tubing that I put under the drawbar where it attaches at the front end. I made it so that I would need a couple of 2x4 blocks to barely get the tires off the floor...like less than an inch. Now we are at the point where the tires are off the floor and pretty much balanced.

Next off come the nuts with an impact tool. The wheel is usually rusted to the axle so I beat on the rim with a 4# short handle sledge moving from side to side, paying attention to be ready to support the tire (with my unused hand) when it breaks loose.

Next comes the prybar and the 2x4....2x4 about 2-3" away from the side of the tire and with one hand holding the top of the tire (to keep it from falling over) the other hand (in short up and down movements), walks the wheel off the notched axle. Now the tire is on the ground adjacent to the axle...like 1-2" sort of thing.

I then grasp both sides of the tire, at about the 2 and 10 O'clock positions and walk the tire back from the wheel, by rolling a couple of inches, turning and rolling back the other way, back and forth till the VERTICAL wheel/tire assy is away from the tractor and can be rolled away.

Once you remove one wheel, the tractor tilts over on to the other side...amount depends on how much the support member holding the tractor off the ground allows the tractor to tilt.

Repeat the removal process and immediately roll the tire to the other side, always keeping it vertical.

You walk the tire over to the axle the same way you removed them just in reverse order, use the pry bar as you did to line up/elevate the tire and push it onto the studs and get a couple of nuts on it. Finish replacing the nuts and impact them in place with an X criss cross pattern.

Get the other tire and repeat the process. Done deal! Takes half an hour or so.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I've changed the same sized tire, 50 gallons of fluid in each alone with nothing but the nut removing device, a 2x4 block of wood and a crow (wrecking) bar....about 3' long, popular at any construction supplier...Lowes, Home Depot, HF.

The key is keep the tires vertical, meaning no more than a few degrees of leaning. I figure where I am going to roll them (concrete floor) and prop up before I remove them.

I made a stand out of 2x2 square tubing that I put under the drawbar where it attaches at the front end. I made it so that I would need a couple of 2x4 blocks to barely get the tires off the floor...like less than an inch. Now we are at the point where the tires are off the floor and pretty much balanced.

Next off come the nuts with an impact tool. The wheel is usually rusted to the axle so I beat on the rim with a 4# short handle sledge moving from side to side, paying attention to be ready to support the tire (with my unused hand) when it breaks loose.

Next comes the prybar and the 2x4....2x4 about 2-3" away from the side of the tire and with one hand holding the top of the tire (to keep it from falling over) the other hand (in short up and down movements), walks the wheel off the notched axle. Now the tire is on the ground adjacent to the axle...like 1-2" sort of thing.

I then grasp both sides of the tire, at about the 2 and 10 O'clock positions and walk the tire back from the wheel, by rolling a couple of inches, turning and rolling back the other way, back and forth till the VERTICAL wheel/tire assy is away from the tractor and can be rolled away.

Once you remove one wheel, the tractor tilts over on to the other side...amount depends on how much the support member holding the tractor off the ground allows the tractor to tilt.

Repeat the removal process and immediately roll the tire to the other side, always keeping it vertical.

You walk the tire over to the axle the same way you removed them just in reverse order, use the pry bar as you did to line up/elevate the tire and push it onto the studs and get a couple of nuts on it. Finish replacing the nuts and impact them in place with an X criss cross pattern.

Get the other tire and repeat the process. Done deal! Takes half an hour or so.

Very good description! - Ive done it that way. The only difference is that I try to get the blocking height just to the point that the tire is supporting its weight only. - - A guess but usually good enough to let you ease it back onto the studs, or into the rim bolt positions, w/o the pry bar.

 

[Oldoak]

I've changed the same sized tire, 50 gallons of fluid in each alone with nothing but the nut removing device, a 2x4 block of wood and a crow (wrecking) bar....about 3' long, popular at any construction supplier...Lowes, Home Depot, HF.

The key is keep the tires vertical, meaning no more than a few degrees of leaning. I figure where I am going to roll them (concrete floor) and prop up before I remove them.

I made a stand out of 2x2 square tubing that I put under the drawbar where it attaches at the front end. I made it so that I would need a couple of 2x4 blocks to barely get the tires off the floor...like less than an inch. Now we are at the point where the tires are off the floor and pretty much balanced.

Next off come the nuts with an impact tool. The wheel is usually rusted to the axle so I beat on the rim with a 4# short handle sledge moving from side to side, paying attention to be ready to support the tire (with my unused hand) when it breaks loose.

Next comes the prybar and the 2x4....2x4 about 2-3" away from the side of the tire and with one hand holding the top of the tire (to keep it from falling over) the other hand (in short up and down movements), walks the wheel off the notched axle. Now the tire is on the ground adjacent to the axle...like 1-2" sort of thing.

I then grasp both sides of the tire, at about the 2 and 10 O'clock positions and walk the tire back from the wheel, by rolling a couple of inches, turning and rolling back the other way, back and forth till the VERTICAL wheel/tire assy is away from the tractor and can be rolled away.

Once you remove one wheel, the tractor tilts over on to the other side...amount depends on how much the support member holding the tractor off the ground allows the tractor to tilt.

Repeat the removal process and immediately roll the tire to the other side, always keeping it vertical.

You walk the tire over to the axle the same way you removed them just in reverse order, use the pry bar as you did to line up/elevate the tire and push it onto the studs and get a couple of nuts on it. Finish replacing the nuts and impact them in place with an X criss cross pattern.

Get the other tire and repeat the process. Done deal! Takes half an hour or so.

Maybe in my younger days, not today. Older and wiser, 'nough said.

 

[Texasmark]

Maybe in my younger days, not today. Older and wiser, 'nough said.

I was 76 or so the last time I did it....a couple or three years ago.

 

[Texasmark]

Very good description! - Ive done it that way. The only difference is that I try to get the blocking height just to the point that the tire is supporting its weight only. - - A guess but usually good enough to let you ease it back onto the studs, or into the rim bolt positions, w/o the pry bar.

The pry bar lets me move the tire around when up against the studs ready for remounting. A lot easier than trying to back the wheel away from the studs to get clearance, then wiggle back and forth and get the clocking and all right. I keep my drive train locked so rolling the axle isn't an option. To each his own.

 

[Xfaxman]

This is what I use on the 140 pound, 14-17.5, V417 tire and wheel:

 

[Reg]

This is a NEW tractor, just turned 50 hours.
Dealer kinda/sorta pressured us into having them do the 50 hour "service" so they will be coming to the
tractor for that (an oil change and little else).

Here is the "complexity" ;

This tractor is owned by a CLUB !
Of course we have differing opinions as to what we/others could/should do - could/should be allowed to do.
Protective of our investment, warranty terms, etc.
Different interests, skills, eagerness to save the club some bux, etc.
Quite a mix, but we try to respect each others' opinions/positions, etc.
Just saying that while I appreciate the input of all who have posted - the decision(s) won't be solely mine,
although I will make input to them.

The 50 hour "service" is going to co$t us quite a bit, but since they will be coming to the tractor for that ANYWAY the question is "why don't we have them switch the wheels while they're here ?"
My mere OPINION is that the dealer should have considered our application at the time of sale,
recommended max width on all wheels and done it as part of dealer prep.