Synthetic Diesel Oil...
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Egon
Epic Contributor
There are a finite number of refineries in exsistance. There are infinite number of brands of oil. Go figure!!!!
Many years ago I was subjected to a talk on refinery products. It was said that all the additives are real great money makers. Their enhancement to longevity was not mentioned.
At any given moment refinery X may be filling containers from refinery Y subject to demand.
Just remember brand xyz is the best and use non other.
Egon
Many years ago I was subjected to a talk on refinery products. It was said that all the additives are real great money makers. Their enhancement to longevity was not mentioned.
At any given moment refinery X may be filling containers from refinery Y subject to demand.
Just remember brand xyz is the best and use non other.
Egon
jray
Member
hey guys been reading alot about amsoil you might want to check it out before you buy the rotella. I'm not a vendor just looking for the beat stuff for my Baby 02 PWS ford anyway lots of good info on there site. www.amsoil.com i hope it helps I am probably going with them. here is another site with good info www.performanceoiltechnology.com
wdn
Silver Member
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- Sep 17, 2001
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- 143
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- Hillsborough county, New Hampshire
- Tractor
- 2001 Kubota BX2200
I posted in the '40,000 mile oil change' thread, a pointer to testimonials for (Mobil) Delvac 1300 Super oil. This is a conventional mineral oil for heavy duty use in diesel engines 15W40. Here are some of the points from this trucking company:
They change it every 15,000 miles (that equals 250 hours @ 60 MPH)
Have 9 trucks with engines over 1 million miles each, no problems. [That is 16,000 hours at an average 60 MPH]
One was truck rebuilt at 1.2 million miles "When we took the motor apart it was in perfect condition-no build-up or unusual wear and tear".
Operate the trucks in weather 35 below zero.
Have been using Delvac 1300 Super exclusively for their fleet since 1989, they now have 21 trucks.
Wow that is mighty impressive. Isn't it 'good enough' for me and my little Kubota ... /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif ??
I am just wondering, all things considered, why my Kubota diesel would not last 5,000 hours or more using Delvac 1300?
If I change the oil by the book every 100 hours -- and I save $10 a pop at today's prices by using the Delvac 1300 versus synthetic oil ... that is a savings of $500 by the time it reaches 5,000 hours /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif
They change it every 15,000 miles (that equals 250 hours @ 60 MPH)
Have 9 trucks with engines over 1 million miles each, no problems. [That is 16,000 hours at an average 60 MPH]
One was truck rebuilt at 1.2 million miles "When we took the motor apart it was in perfect condition-no build-up or unusual wear and tear".
Operate the trucks in weather 35 below zero.
Have been using Delvac 1300 Super exclusively for their fleet since 1989, they now have 21 trucks.
Wow that is mighty impressive. Isn't it 'good enough' for me and my little Kubota ... /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif ??
I am just wondering, all things considered, why my Kubota diesel would not last 5,000 hours or more using Delvac 1300?
If I change the oil by the book every 100 hours -- and I save $10 a pop at today's prices by using the Delvac 1300 versus synthetic oil ... that is a savings of $500 by the time it reaches 5,000 hours /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif
A little off of the oil discussion but don't forget about your air filters either. One of the biggest causes of bearing failures is dirt, improperly pressed and lack of oil run second. Good quality air filters changed at regular intervals do alot to keep your equipment running. The pre cleaners help alot in the really dusty areas.
RET
Silver Member
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- Dec 28, 2001
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- 231
- Location
- Louisiana (near Baton Rouge)
- Tractor
- Kubota BX2200, JD LX277, Cub Lo-Boy
OK Gents, let's go through this one more time so that my feeble mind may understand a little better.....
I was at Wallyworld a few days ago and found the <$13/gal Rotella 5w-40 synthetic and grabbed a gallon, planning to use it for the next BX2200 oil change. Then, I got worried about the weight after reading over this post and other similar ones and grabbed a gallon of Rotella 15W-40 Dino a few days later. The BX manual recommends 15W-40 for my S. Louisiana climate and 5W-40 only for the very coldest arctic winters. Since the avg. high in Jan. for my area is 60F, I don't think this area quite qualifies as 'arctic'.
Somebody explain something to me...get technical if you gotta...I'll go dig up my old engineering books if I need to decipher...what's the difference between 5W-40 and 15W-40 in 95deg weather when at full operating temp (assuming all else is equal)? Will one be less viscous than the other at high temp., or will they be essentially the same? Will one provide more lubrication than the other at the high end? Do you think it really matters which jug of oil I use since I have already purchased both? I really want to try the 5W-40 synthetic for the next 100hr if there are no technical reasons not to. If the 5W-40 synth. is really a bad idea for the BX, I'll just use it in my small gas powered toys so it won't go to waste.
Let's hear from the technical geeks! Tell me about centipoises, film thicknesses, high pressure stabilities, what's going on at the micro level, what the ill effects of 5W-40 could be, etc, etc. I can't seem to find any good technical discussion on this topic anywhere else....so I'm pleading to the best for knowledge.
Any petro engineers out there??
thx,
ret
I was at Wallyworld a few days ago and found the <$13/gal Rotella 5w-40 synthetic and grabbed a gallon, planning to use it for the next BX2200 oil change. Then, I got worried about the weight after reading over this post and other similar ones and grabbed a gallon of Rotella 15W-40 Dino a few days later. The BX manual recommends 15W-40 for my S. Louisiana climate and 5W-40 only for the very coldest arctic winters. Since the avg. high in Jan. for my area is 60F, I don't think this area quite qualifies as 'arctic'.
Somebody explain something to me...get technical if you gotta...I'll go dig up my old engineering books if I need to decipher...what's the difference between 5W-40 and 15W-40 in 95deg weather when at full operating temp (assuming all else is equal)? Will one be less viscous than the other at high temp., or will they be essentially the same? Will one provide more lubrication than the other at the high end? Do you think it really matters which jug of oil I use since I have already purchased both? I really want to try the 5W-40 synthetic for the next 100hr if there are no technical reasons not to. If the 5W-40 synth. is really a bad idea for the BX, I'll just use it in my small gas powered toys so it won't go to waste.
Let's hear from the technical geeks! Tell me about centipoises, film thicknesses, high pressure stabilities, what's going on at the micro level, what the ill effects of 5W-40 could be, etc, etc. I can't seem to find any good technical discussion on this topic anywhere else....so I'm pleading to the best for knowledge.
Any petro engineers out there??
thx,
ret
BHarrison
Silver Member
Hey guys. Was doing some searching on this subject when I found this page. I thought you all would find it interesting. ...especially thouse of you with motorcycles. It sounded like more of the same ol chat until I got to the part about heavy duty (diesel) oils.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm>http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm</A>
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm>http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm</A>
john4nh
Silver Member
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- Location
- TEXAS, CROSBY
- Tractor
- CASE 580 BACHOE JOHN DEERE 920 AND 820 FARM-ALL CUB
Thanks for the link, good information. I gotta believe the guy since hes a local
I plan to switch to the Shell/Rotella Syn.
I plan to switch to the Shell/Rotella Syn.
karmakanic
Silver Member
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- Jun 25, 2002
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- Location
- NE Texas
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- Kubota L35 TLB, John Deere 550 dozer, Cat D-2 dozer, Allis Chalmers HD-11 dozer
RET,
I don't think we actually need to get that technical to answer your question. In fact, I think this whole subject gets so confusing cause we try to get too technical.
I'll make one of those blanket statements now which you're not supposed to make if your a technical kind of guy, but I challenge anyone to refute it.
<font color=red> In 30+ years of fixing broken cars and old construction equipment I have never seen a oil related failure that was caused by using the wrong oil </font color=red>.
Plenty of failures from not having enough oil, or not changing it often enough. But not a one from using conventional oil in place of synthetic, or synthetic in place of conventional, or using a different viscosity, or mixing brands and types.
Viscosity is the only real difference, and it's main affect is causing a cold engine to be harder to start if you're using too high a viscosity. Here in texas, it's hard to get a engine cold enough for this to matter, no matter how high the viscosity.
All modern oils exceed the requirments placed on them by such a margin, that when we start talking about obscure differences in cold flow properties, long term breakdown of additives used to achieve multi-viscosity, reaction to carbon content in diesel fuels, ability to hold contaminants in suspension, clingability, film shear strenght, ect. ect. ect.,,,we might as well be talking about how many hairs on a gnat's a**.
I keep a copy of the Consumer Reports study jbs mentioned in my waiting room to show customers when they ask about oils. But most don't ask, they come to me already decided. I consequently keep in stock a bunch of different oils to satisfy their advertising induced prejudices.
But, my opinion, there's not a hill of beans difference in their ability to satisfy the requirments of normal users. The exception being fleet operator who measure profit or loss in fractions of cents per mile, or special users with requirments for extreme longevity or continous operation.
Change it often, keep it full. That's my advise.
Dave Perry
I don't think we actually need to get that technical to answer your question. In fact, I think this whole subject gets so confusing cause we try to get too technical.
I'll make one of those blanket statements now which you're not supposed to make if your a technical kind of guy, but I challenge anyone to refute it.
<font color=red> In 30+ years of fixing broken cars and old construction equipment I have never seen a oil related failure that was caused by using the wrong oil </font color=red>.
Plenty of failures from not having enough oil, or not changing it often enough. But not a one from using conventional oil in place of synthetic, or synthetic in place of conventional, or using a different viscosity, or mixing brands and types.
Viscosity is the only real difference, and it's main affect is causing a cold engine to be harder to start if you're using too high a viscosity. Here in texas, it's hard to get a engine cold enough for this to matter, no matter how high the viscosity.
All modern oils exceed the requirments placed on them by such a margin, that when we start talking about obscure differences in cold flow properties, long term breakdown of additives used to achieve multi-viscosity, reaction to carbon content in diesel fuels, ability to hold contaminants in suspension, clingability, film shear strenght, ect. ect. ect.,,,we might as well be talking about how many hairs on a gnat's a**.
I keep a copy of the Consumer Reports study jbs mentioned in my waiting room to show customers when they ask about oils. But most don't ask, they come to me already decided. I consequently keep in stock a bunch of different oils to satisfy their advertising induced prejudices.
But, my opinion, there's not a hill of beans difference in their ability to satisfy the requirments of normal users. The exception being fleet operator who measure profit or loss in fractions of cents per mile, or special users with requirments for extreme longevity or continous operation.
Change it often, keep it full. That's my advise.
Dave Perry
I'm going to agree with you and tell you a true story about not changing oil often enough.....maybe never.
In 1976 I bought a 1972 Olds Cutlass. It was the proverbial "little old ladies car that was driven on Sundays". It was low mileage for it's age. It was garage kept. It was immaculate inside and out. It drove nice and had new rubber on it so I bought it.
It has always been my habit to change the oil and filter on anything I buy so I set the new maintenance interval. I got it home and drained the oil while it was still warm. It was pretty dirty and kind of slow draining but it all came out all right. The filter was pretty nasty so I figured it had been awhile since she had it serviced. No big deal.
I put the new filter and oil in and pulled the front wheels to pack the bearings, check the brakes etc and spent a couple of hours puttering around doing basic maintenance things. Then I went to get the old oil to put it in a milk jug for disposal. It had cooled and would not pore out of the drain pan. It was the consistency of pudding after it had cooled. I could not believe it. I am sure from the looks of that mess that the oil had never been changed. There is no way that engine had any oil going to the bearings on startup until the heat liquified it again. All it had was the jellied oil that was left from the last time she drove it.
I changed the oil twice more in the first month until I got all the gunk out of that engine but it never hurt the engine. I drove it for 2 years then sold it to my brother-in-law. he drove it for 10 years and then sold it to someone else. It was a great car.
That was the first and last time I ever saw jelled oil come out of an engine.
In 1976 I bought a 1972 Olds Cutlass. It was the proverbial "little old ladies car that was driven on Sundays". It was low mileage for it's age. It was garage kept. It was immaculate inside and out. It drove nice and had new rubber on it so I bought it.
It has always been my habit to change the oil and filter on anything I buy so I set the new maintenance interval. I got it home and drained the oil while it was still warm. It was pretty dirty and kind of slow draining but it all came out all right. The filter was pretty nasty so I figured it had been awhile since she had it serviced. No big deal.
I put the new filter and oil in and pulled the front wheels to pack the bearings, check the brakes etc and spent a couple of hours puttering around doing basic maintenance things. Then I went to get the old oil to put it in a milk jug for disposal. It had cooled and would not pore out of the drain pan. It was the consistency of pudding after it had cooled. I could not believe it. I am sure from the looks of that mess that the oil had never been changed. There is no way that engine had any oil going to the bearings on startup until the heat liquified it again. All it had was the jellied oil that was left from the last time she drove it.
I changed the oil twice more in the first month until I got all the gunk out of that engine but it never hurt the engine. I drove it for 2 years then sold it to my brother-in-law. he drove it for 10 years and then sold it to someone else. It was a great car.
That was the first and last time I ever saw jelled oil come out of an engine.
