Synthetic Lubricants in Power Tracs
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landscapercarl
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I found a helpful web site for amsoil give you all the info or they will find out for you. www.UltimateOilTechnology.com
We use it in all our small motors including 2cycle it's fool proof to mix. The cost is more but if your motor lasts longer its well worth it
We use it in all our small motors including 2cycle it's fool proof to mix. The cost is more but if your motor lasts longer its well worth it
Anonymous Poster
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Hi Carl, while I have your attn?
I was in your neighborhood Sat to check in w/ Tom-
He said you guys found a chevy app for the 22hp oil filter...do you mind sharing? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Bruce
Please excuse this off topic quickie.
I was in your neighborhood Sat to check in w/ Tom-
He said you guys found a chevy app for the 22hp oil filter...do you mind sharing? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Bruce
Please excuse this off topic quickie.
Charlie_Iliff
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Terry called to tell me that he had discussed synthetics with their engineers. He said that they recommend either Mobil 1 or Amsoil for the hydraulic systems, because they know there are no incompatibility problems. They say that both will give good performance. They are not sure about the compatibility of other synthetics with the oil already in the system.
Terry said that the best way to switch to pure synthetic would involve draining the reservoir, refilling it with about 5 gallons of synthetic, and then running the engine, moving every cylinder, running the wheel motors, and mounting and exercising each attachment that uses the hydraulic pto or aux pto. Then, of course, discard that 5 gallons and fill with pure synthetic.
I told him that if I ever switch to synthetic, I will plan on a blend with the old oil for a while, rather than using $100 worth of oil to rinse the system.
For you perfectionists out there, however, have at it.
Terry said that the best way to switch to pure synthetic would involve draining the reservoir, refilling it with about 5 gallons of synthetic, and then running the engine, moving every cylinder, running the wheel motors, and mounting and exercising each attachment that uses the hydraulic pto or aux pto. Then, of course, discard that 5 gallons and fill with pure synthetic.
I told him that if I ever switch to synthetic, I will plan on a blend with the old oil for a while, rather than using $100 worth of oil to rinse the system.
For you perfectionists out there, however, have at it.
OP
MossRoad
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I vote for the blend /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Bob999
Platinum Member
I wonder why PT uses such a large oil reservoir. I have a 45 hp JD skid steer that is fully hydraulic and the oil reservoir is 9 gallons (organic oil). I have a 25 HP zero turn mower that uses Mobil 1 for the hydraulic system and the total system capacity is 2 quarts--and there is no oil cooler--the ability of synthetics to operate at higher temeraturs without breaking down allows the use of such a small capacity and no oil cooler. Of course only the wheel drive system is hydraulic--the deck drive system is mechanical via a belt.
In any event, might it be possible to operate a PT with less than a full reservoir if you changed to synthetic? It would seem to me that as long as the suction line was submerged on maximum slopes that it may not be necessary to fully fill the reservoir and a change over to synthetic oil might be more affordable.
In any event, might it be possible to operate a PT with less than a full reservoir if you changed to synthetic? It would seem to me that as long as the suction line was submerged on maximum slopes that it may not be necessary to fully fill the reservoir and a change over to synthetic oil might be more affordable.
Charlie_Iliff
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<font color="red"> Amsoil makes a engine flush, would that help or hurt? Also did they say engine oil or hydro oil?
</font>
I've read a little about the engine flush. I can't imagine the hydraulic system needs the flush, but I didn't discuss that with Terry.
I assumed from our discussion that we were still talking about motor oil. Neither of us mentioned hydraulic oil, so I'll call him back tomorrow, (if I remember).
</font>
I've read a little about the engine flush. I can't imagine the hydraulic system needs the flush, but I didn't discuss that with Terry.
I assumed from our discussion that we were still talking about motor oil. Neither of us mentioned hydraulic oil, so I'll call him back tomorrow, (if I remember).
Anonymous Poster
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2 potential benefits come to mind...
1st, with a larger reservois, at any GIVEN contaminant level, the larger volumes of oil will be "cleaner" on a "Parts Per Unit volume" basis, hopefully translating to longer change intervals or longer component life depending on which way you trade off.
2nd, there are cooling benefits, e.g., the longer the oil "stays" in the reservois, the more heat it can give up before going back to "work" in a pump or motor.
Now, I like the idea of syn's in the hydraulic sys. and I'm trying to figure a cheap way to "polish" the oil "offline",i.e.,just recycle the oil through a 2u(micron abs.) from the reservoir while the unit sits in the garage napping.
It would be low pressure and non-active during machine use so that reliability wouldn't be compromised...but, synthetic oil life would double or triple with no sacrifice in component lifespans. This would be a filter similar to the bypass units sold by Amsoil,Oilgard, etc., for diesel soot removal. If small enough, it could be mounted on the tractor or just portable mounted on a sheet of plywood with a larger unit.
This is similar in concept to fuel polishing of a trawlers diesel fuel tanks....
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( it may not be necessary to fully fill the reservoir and a change over to synthetic oil might be more affordable )</font>
If heat rejection "studies" show that a lesser volume would work, then one may still have to play with baffle designs that would keep the intake full, no matter the angle worked...one technique used in marine diesel tanks is a hinged baffle plate that would allow oil into a sump area when tilted one way, but swings closed to keep a volume of oil if machine tilts the opposite way. This technique in the marine environment helps to keep the diesel from sucking air and dying out when you need it most(a rough sea and a low fuel level)
Anyone got some spare time for another project? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
1st, with a larger reservois, at any GIVEN contaminant level, the larger volumes of oil will be "cleaner" on a "Parts Per Unit volume" basis, hopefully translating to longer change intervals or longer component life depending on which way you trade off.
2nd, there are cooling benefits, e.g., the longer the oil "stays" in the reservois, the more heat it can give up before going back to "work" in a pump or motor.
Now, I like the idea of syn's in the hydraulic sys. and I'm trying to figure a cheap way to "polish" the oil "offline",i.e.,just recycle the oil through a 2u(micron abs.) from the reservoir while the unit sits in the garage napping.
It would be low pressure and non-active during machine use so that reliability wouldn't be compromised...but, synthetic oil life would double or triple with no sacrifice in component lifespans. This would be a filter similar to the bypass units sold by Amsoil,Oilgard, etc., for diesel soot removal. If small enough, it could be mounted on the tractor or just portable mounted on a sheet of plywood with a larger unit.
This is similar in concept to fuel polishing of a trawlers diesel fuel tanks....
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( it may not be necessary to fully fill the reservoir and a change over to synthetic oil might be more affordable )</font>
If heat rejection "studies" show that a lesser volume would work, then one may still have to play with baffle designs that would keep the intake full, no matter the angle worked...one technique used in marine diesel tanks is a hinged baffle plate that would allow oil into a sump area when tilted one way, but swings closed to keep a volume of oil if machine tilts the opposite way. This technique in the marine environment helps to keep the diesel from sucking air and dying out when you need it most(a rough sea and a low fuel level)
Anyone got some spare time for another project? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Sedgewood
Platinum Member
Charlie: <font color="red"> I'll call him back tomorrow, (if I remember). </font>
Last May there was a thread on Power Trac recommended oils in which you and I both reported PT recommending 10w30 Mobil 1 in the hydraulic system. I too assume(d) that to be engine oil.
Last May there was a thread on Power Trac recommended oils in which you and I both reported PT recommending 10w30 Mobil 1 in the hydraulic system. I too assume(d) that to be engine oil.
