T2310 Starting Issue

[J_J]

Connect 12 v directly from the battery to the start terminal, with the ing switch in the run position. Use different battery if necessary.

 

[jonnykk]

Thanks JJ, I did try that and my results were the same as with trying to turn it over with the key. There is no initial sound when power is applied, but when power is released from the terminal, I can hear the solenoid "click" back.

With the starter out of the tractor, I can put power to the power terminal on the back side (covered by a gray rubber grommet) and the starter spins with no issues. I am not seeing the solenoid pop at all though, so I'm not entirely sure what the issue is at this point.

 

[jonnykk]

Well, a little more tinkering... when I put 12v to the starter on the motor side, things spin just fine, cranks right over. When I put 12v to the small terminal where the safety signal wire goes in, the solenoid pops out, but only about 1/4 of an inch. I suspect the solenoid should push the gear out at least an inch or so (towards the end of the working range), so that may be my problem...

Any input on just how far the solenoid should push the starter gear out would be great.

 

[jinman]

Jonny, now that we have established a solenoid problem. Let me tell you what I think. My repair manual says the solenoid has a pull-in coil and a hold-in coil. both get a pulse when you put the key to Start, then the pull-in drops out and the hold-in holds the pinion gear in place while cranking. My money is on the pull-in coil being toast, maybe the hold in coil too, but the pinion gear not coming all the way out says the pull-in at least is not working. That gear should jump out at least 1" in my opinion; although, the actual distance is not specified in the repair manual. When you deenergize the solenoid, there is a circuit to reverse current through the coils to quickly pull in the pinion (probably using collapsing magnetic field). I think that's what you are hearing. Anyhow, you might be able to disassemble the starter and get it working, but you have to ask if any repair will be permanent and if it is worth messing with when you can get a rebuilt starter with a guarantee for around $140 after core exchange. You might also take your starter to a repair shop and they might have parts to fix it. My guess is it's either the solenoid itself or the overunning clutch portion that is binding.

 

[barbqranch]

When you try to start it, you say you have 12 volts at the starter stud. Is the starter body still at 0 volts?

 

[dqdave1]

Make sure your positive cable is good, 12 Volts does not always tell the full story, keep meter on starter end of positive cable while holding key in start position and see if voltage drops off. You can use a jumper cable from battery to starter as a trial also. Make sure negative cable is good also, especially the connection points at battery and frame.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Check your conection going from the lower post of the selenoid to the starter. I had a bad conection there and it gave me simular symptoms. Also check your grounds.
Bill