T273 -what will be next problem?
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erniegray1
New member
The part # I have is 13151052007 is your Number for a 273 hst a better muffler and explain the modification and where you got the new muffler
thanks
I have been out waiting tractor replacement by another ( this time brand new manufacture 2009) complying with Europeean Laws concerning environment.
Things are not completly solved due to legal title issue. For that reason 2 criminal process went into Court last December 12th against seller and 3 days ago a Civil process entered against seller and TYM. That is all for the moment, and let us wait (around 2 years...).
As soon as I have the new T273 I will say some
TYM should be able to provide the new muffler (if you haven't already had one installed - your post was a while ago - I don't have a part number, sorry). The mods were an added brace (the last mod I am aware of) and a modified connection at the exhaust tip - they changed it to a fork that goes over the bolt rather than the hole, so that when the frame flexes it doesn't pull on the exhaust and break the muffler. Works great. Mine broke the original muffler right away, and TYM sent a guy to my driveway and fixed it for me, no charge, along with a couple of other upgrades they had done to the unit (T273) since released. If you can get your hands on the new muffler it is an easy fix to do yourself - I had pulled my broken muffler and welded it up to get the tractor going again until the new one came along. Very easy to do.
Good luck.
Sorry erniegray1 for late reply, but due to critical situation envolving my machine I cannot say too much for this moment and probably within next 2 years (...), but be alert on revision made by TYM and release date. The muffler you own was removed from production last 2006.07.25. After that a new revision ended 2006.12.31. And after that, 13151035001 was also removed from producton on a date not confirmed yet. But I assure that models produced 2009 have a different muffler (srinked) to avoid scrubing engine capot.
Concerning vibrations, also engine synoblock were modifyed to 45 degrees angle.
Sorry if I cannot help for moment. Be pacient but "make noise" with TYM...never give up
Unfortunatly no. Tym has the following chassis number:
T273 C09 xxxxx
T273 model
C09 month of March 2009
xxxxx manufacturing number
Add to the list of my problems.
At 270 hours. Started blowing fuses that supply voltage to injector pump. Engine would just shut off and I had to replace the fuse. Problem is with the wiring harness under the dash. I couldn't find the wire that was shorting out to ground, so I just pulled the whole harness up and used a wire tie to hold it.
Then a few days later a hole rubbed in the hydraulic hose that's supplies the power steering. I spliced it so I could keep using the tractor. Also found another hose that was rubbing and will have to be changed sometime.
Also seal for mid-mount PTO is leaking bad. I have a new seal but haven't had time to change it. I have never even used the MMPTO , must have gotten some dirt in it being mounted so low.
I will have to repair these problems whenever I bring the tractor back home but right now I have to much work to do so my patch work is getting me by.
Gregster613
Platinum Member
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- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi Bud,
Sorry to hear about your ongoing problems, but let me add to the list of annoying/embarassing items that can/often do appear (at least with me) with the 273's.
This past week I've been using my loader alot and to my most extreme embarrasment the hood just will not stay closed! I had hired helpers at my site [telling me "what a nice machine you've got"] and it was totally embarassing to drive into a dirt pile, raise my loader and have the hood spring open! Push it closed again and again with my hand. I can hear when it's gonna hapen too. The motor strains, frame shivers and hood spriings open. I had to resort to putting a strap across it to hold it closed! I'm completely satisified wirh the performance of my machine except for this profound annonyance! It's really fustrating to need to have too strap your hood closed! I'm in the process of looking for some type of bolt of clamps to use to hold it stable.
I freely admit that I work my equipment to its fullest [that's what I bought it for] but this has eclipsed into a severe annoyance for me! I modified the hood latch [per previous advice on this column] but it just does not keep it closed.
I've read on here where people say they hear the relief valve going off? I drive the bucket into a pile and when it won't lift up, I use the curl and it does. I never hear any relief valve going off so I do not know the sounds of that, but I don't believe I'm overworking my loader. Since it can lift and carry the load it must be ok? I just like to have a full bucket per trip, seems to make it worth while.
As to why my hood won't stay shut; I'm just dazed!! I think that the pin that holds it in the closed position is just about 1/4 inch too short. I'm afraid if I make any more improvements to that area I'll end up getting it shut and never open again. Other than that, I'm a happy-camper!
I shoulda taken pictures of my pool landscape project before starting but I just got caught up in the doing and it's now too late. I moved about 18 yards of DG/Sand in total. And with my hood strapped shut!!! Fun!!
Greg
Sorry to hear about your ongoing problems, but let me add to the list of annoying/embarassing items that can/often do appear (at least with me) with the 273's.
This past week I've been using my loader alot and to my most extreme embarrasment the hood just will not stay closed! I had hired helpers at my site [telling me "what a nice machine you've got"] and it was totally embarassing to drive into a dirt pile, raise my loader and have the hood spring open! Push it closed again and again with my hand. I can hear when it's gonna hapen too. The motor strains, frame shivers and hood spriings open. I had to resort to putting a strap across it to hold it closed! I'm completely satisified wirh the performance of my machine except for this profound annonyance! It's really fustrating to need to have too strap your hood closed! I'm in the process of looking for some type of bolt of clamps to use to hold it stable.
I freely admit that I work my equipment to its fullest [that's what I bought it for] but this has eclipsed into a severe annoyance for me! I modified the hood latch [per previous advice on this column] but it just does not keep it closed.
I've read on here where people say they hear the relief valve going off? I drive the bucket into a pile and when it won't lift up, I use the curl and it does. I never hear any relief valve going off so I do not know the sounds of that, but I don't believe I'm overworking my loader. Since it can lift and carry the load it must be ok? I just like to have a full bucket per trip, seems to make it worth while.
As to why my hood won't stay shut; I'm just dazed!! I think that the pin that holds it in the closed position is just about 1/4 inch too short. I'm afraid if I make any more improvements to that area I'll end up getting it shut and never open again. Other than that, I'm a happy-camper!
I shoulda taken pictures of my pool landscape project before starting but I just got caught up in the doing and it's now too late. I moved about 18 yards of DG/Sand in total. And with my hood strapped shut!!! Fun!!
Greg
ALKY
Silver Member
I think the hood problem comes from the radiator support flexing.I adjusted mine and it worked great until I got on uneven ground[aimost everywhere around here] It moves so much the fan rubs the shroud!My most annoying problem is the frame to trans bolts won't stay tight very long.Overall it is amazing for 23 hp 233,as I overwork it on a regular basis. Steve
Yep have that problem also. I moved 25,000 lbs of rip-rap the week and had to tighten the frame bolts about four times.
Gregster - have you looked at the large rubber hose going thru the radiator shroud to see if it is rubbing on the underside of the hood? Mine was hitting so badly that it pushed the radiator into the spinning fan and ate up a few inches of plastic and melted the tips of the fan. I cut it off and that took care of that problem. Just wondering if perhaps it is loading the hood with tension and encouraging the hood to pop loose. Other than that, I can't make any suggestions because my hood has never popped. In fact I have to push it down just above the instrument cluster while pulling the release lever to open it.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Gregster613
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
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- 943
- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hello BKJohns,
Thanks for the thought; I looked at my system & noticed a "slight" black smudge [on inside of hood] at the location of the air vent hose exit through top of radiator shroud.
I cut off about 1" of the hose and now we'll see. I will not hold my breath, cause this seems to be too easy of a fix! Plus, I am out of any "heavy duty" loader work at the moment; it will not take too long for me to find something to do however! I can only hope that this works!
Else I'm going shopping for some type of outside clamps that I can bolt on to snap the hood shut & hold it for good!
Greg
Thanks for the thought; I looked at my system & noticed a "slight" black smudge [on inside of hood] at the location of the air vent hose exit through top of radiator shroud.
I cut off about 1" of the hose and now we'll see. I will not hold my breath, cause this seems to be too easy of a fix! Plus, I am out of any "heavy duty" loader work at the moment; it will not take too long for me to find something to do however! I can only hope that this works!
Else I'm going shopping for some type of outside clamps that I can bolt on to snap the hood shut & hold it for good!
Greg
honorbound
Silver Member
I ended up rebuilding the latch by welding 1/4 in steel onto the old hatch. Once drilled, filed and fitted it no works purfectly without popping open.
honorbound
Silver Member
I just have to learn how to type properly now...lol
Gregster613
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
- Messages
- 943
- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi Honorbound,
Yes I remembered your fix. Did it to mine also & it seemed to work for quite awhile; & it still does if I stay on solid, level ground and don't use the loader!? Alas, it has stopped holding hood shut on any steady basis while working with loader.
I only have a mental picture of the clamps I intend to try if this hose shortening doesen't work, but I've seen them in/on various items before. They'll need to be about 4" long I believe. I do hope I don't need resort to this extreme just yet, but I've gotta be able to use loader and continue to operate tractor "without" having to focus on holding hood closed with one hand! I also looked at my radiator & cooler supports [as was suggested] & they seem strong, solid, non-flexible.
I'm perplexed as to why it just seems to happen on my machine, but when I get it figured out I'll be sure to post my solution.
Greg
Yes I remembered your fix. Did it to mine also & it seemed to work for quite awhile; & it still does if I stay on solid, level ground and don't use the loader!? Alas, it has stopped holding hood shut on any steady basis while working with loader.
I only have a mental picture of the clamps I intend to try if this hose shortening doesen't work, but I've seen them in/on various items before. They'll need to be about 4" long I believe. I do hope I don't need resort to this extreme just yet, but I've gotta be able to use loader and continue to operate tractor "without" having to focus on holding hood closed with one hand! I also looked at my radiator & cooler supports [as was suggested] & they seem strong, solid, non-flexible.
I'm perplexed as to why it just seems to happen on my machine, but when I get it figured out I'll be sure to post my solution.
Greg
Gregster613
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
- Messages
- 943
- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi guys,
Nothing absolute to report but I may have just "fumbled" accross a fix to my dilema! I was in the garage rechecking all adjustable measurements at the latch - remember it does slide front to back somewhat - and I have utilizied Honorbounds fix [latch face extended by 1/4" steel piece] attached.
I wanted to ensure that I had it as far forwards as it would go. Well, I did already have it max'd out for its travel length, but for some unknown reason at this time when I relaxed the lever instead of my "normal" allowing it to slide back upon it's own spring pressure {which I have always used} I somehow bumped/pushed it with my hand and I heard/felt it slide in way deep!!
I think/hope that I've just been to gentle with the latches/sliding apparatus's. I haven't done any loader work yet but I've just got a feeling that the pin wasn't sliding far enough forwards to get fully engaged and I wasn't noticing it!! Maybe my latch pin spring is weak? If so, I'll just replace it with a slightly stronger spring & hope this annoyance just goes away!
How about you 273'ers out there? Do you just allow the lever to re-set itself or do you push it in to assist the spring pressure? Boy, will I be pleased if'n that's all it's been!
Greg
Nothing absolute to report but I may have just "fumbled" accross a fix to my dilema! I was in the garage rechecking all adjustable measurements at the latch - remember it does slide front to back somewhat - and I have utilizied Honorbounds fix [latch face extended by 1/4" steel piece] attached.
I wanted to ensure that I had it as far forwards as it would go. Well, I did already have it max'd out for its travel length, but for some unknown reason at this time when I relaxed the lever instead of my "normal" allowing it to slide back upon it's own spring pressure {which I have always used} I somehow bumped/pushed it with my hand and I heard/felt it slide in way deep!!
I think/hope that I've just been to gentle with the latches/sliding apparatus's. I haven't done any loader work yet but I've just got a feeling that the pin wasn't sliding far enough forwards to get fully engaged and I wasn't noticing it!! Maybe my latch pin spring is weak? If so, I'll just replace it with a slightly stronger spring & hope this annoyance just goes away!
How about you 273'ers out there? Do you just allow the lever to re-set itself or do you push it in to assist the spring pressure? Boy, will I be pleased if'n that's all it's been!
Greg
tymdealer
New member
Greg,
I think you may have the problem solved, however if it still opens there is a update for that problem, your dealer should be aware of it. You take the dash off and there is a R pin that goes against the firewall, the hole in the latch pin needs to be re-drilled farther back allowing the latch pin to go farther through the firewall. Hope this helps!
I think you may have the problem solved, however if it still opens there is a update for that problem, your dealer should be aware of it. You take the dash off and there is a R pin that goes against the firewall, the hole in the latch pin needs to be re-drilled farther back allowing the latch pin to go farther through the firewall. Hope this helps!
Add to the list of problems.
285 hours
Weld in seat broke.
Hood popping open.
The problem with the hood popping open is not with the latch. It is caused by the chassis twisting. Keeping all the bolts both front and back tight helps but they seem to get back loose with a few hours of loader use. The tractor should have some bracing to tie the loader to the back of the tractor. Look at some other brands they have this. That would solve the twisting. I am going to cut some channel or angle and make some braces that will bolt in or weld to the frame for support when I have time. All the twisting of the chassis will soon cause something else to break.
285 hours
Weld in seat broke.
Hood popping open.
The problem with the hood popping open is not with the latch. It is caused by the chassis twisting. Keeping all the bolts both front and back tight helps but they seem to get back loose with a few hours of loader use. The tractor should have some bracing to tie the loader to the back of the tractor. Look at some other brands they have this. That would solve the twisting. I am going to cut some channel or angle and make some braces that will bolt in or weld to the frame for support when I have time. All the twisting of the chassis will soon cause something else to break.
