T330 Loader Control Valve

[Grut]

Hey guys anybody have any problems with the control valve for the front end loader on a T330 tractor with a LT300 loader or similar brand(scorpion, etc.). Mine is/was hard to get into float position and getting it out is/was worse. It also has started to stick very slightly in the down position. Today I was using it and the joystick broke--the ball on the neutal post broke off causing the joystick to overtravel forward and break the plastic which covers the cable ball ends and attaches to the boot. No biggy but I was tinkering with it before it got dark and the up/down valve spool was actually causing the whole problem. It appears water entered the vent hole on top and rusted up the spring and I know the spool is sticking, not sure if the water travelled to bottom side haven't tore it off. I know the dealer had said that he figured out the control vavle was actually mounted upside down and to to seal the holes in the top(which is where the spring is) to eliminate water from entering. It was sealed by the dealer when he did some other warranty work this spring.

So much for getting the back of the house back filled!! Time for a beer or 4.

Well off to the dealer tomorrow to see what he has to say about this new deal.

 

[Grut]

Well the dealer is checking into with TYM to see if they can do anything to assist me because he has had a bunch come back out of the 1 year warranty(Attachments) with the same problem--valve mounted upside down accumulated water/moisture in the return spring and spool causing corrosion which caused binding that eventually stretches cables and breaks joysticks.
The $850 control valve needs changed out and the joystick repaired. He did show me the new T300 with LT350 loader and they went back to a valve mounted joystick on the front loader bracket. That is what I am looking into now, eliminating the cables, never liked that setup anyway.
I am calling the dealer back on Monday to see what TYM will do, which I guessing not much that is why I have a plan of attack already set up if I have to repair myself.

Anybody with the T330 or similar have any control valve problems becuase of the vavle being mounted upside down?

Just grabbed the original manual for he loader it appears to be under a 2 year warranty. Well, I will have to see what I can work out with my dealer then to possibly get an upgrade to the valve mounted joystick..

 

[Redneck in training]

I have the same tractor with the same problem. Have not damaged the joystick yet.

 

[ALKY]

I had a similar problem with a 233.

 

[Grut]

guys did your dealers fix your problem?

After a bunch of research vavles are still made to be upside down, because the cables usually attach to the bottom. They should however have some kind of mushroom vent cover over them to keep water out and be stated somewhere to keep lubed up because of condensation.

I am stopping at the dealer today to ask him why he stated the attachments have a 1 year warranty and the operators manuals for both my backhoe and front loader state clear as day 2 year warranty.
Also going to see what kind of deal or how we might work something out to eliminate the cable system. I have a set up ready to go but would cost me a little over $250, and why should I fork out any cash when that part is still under warranty per TYM.

 

[ALKY]

TYM told me to clean up the spool valve and lube with grease. The grease I used was a little heavy,but fixed it after it melted in. Of course they would have done it for a small fee! :laughing: STEVE

 

[Grut]

Steve how bad was yours when you cleaned it all up and greased it? Mine is sticking going down(not returning to center and stopping movement) and hard to get in and out of float,which broke the joystick.
Wow wish my dealer would have done the greasing when he had it this spring. All he did was pull the cover spray some lubricant and silicone the hole shut which didn't last on the loader arm spool.. I asked him when I was out there Friday about cleaning the spool up or rebuilding it and he said that I would need an $850 valve, joystick repair, and installation but was going to call TYM to see what they would do because of the one year warranty. He wouldn't give me a valve because 1 he didn't have one and 2 told me alot involved with swapping it out..
Ha ha ha I can get a Brand Loader vavle for $199 at Northern Tool and a PB sleeve for $20 locally and install one myself which eliminates the crappy cables. Which I am about to do pretty soon, too much time wasted tt to too many people looking for too many answers while my work load for the machine just piles up around the house and winter isn't getting any further away.

What ticks me off is I was supposed to get a call at the end of the day on Friday and as of yet haven't heard anything. I didn't get a chance to stop by the dealer today which I was going to do with the manual in hand showing him the 2 year warranty in print and see what he is going to do. Starting to get a little angry at this point. Once again.
Last time which was spring he took my tractor for a week to just drill and tap stripped out threads. I went there with my plan of attack: thread, length of bolts to be used, etc. looking for a go ahead. Could have had it fixed in an hour, but no dealer must perform work under warranty--I guess at least it is documented.

 

[ALKY]

Originally,I sprayed pb blaster on it & the rust flowed out of the housing.[only removed the end cap] It worked for awhile then dried and tightened up sticking in the raise position. Dealer told me to grease it,so I tried to pack grease in the spool after 2 tries it worked. I only removed the 2 allen bolts on the front of the housing. My dealer died about a year after purchase,so warranty through a dealer who didn't make $$ from a sale is rough to say the least! Hope you get it fixed.My tractor is in the shop now. the part is coming from Korea so it is goin to be awhile. STEVE BTW my manual says 2 years also

 

[Gregster613]

Hi all, I, too, am having problems w/loader valve getting stuck in float.
At first I thought it was just me getting used to operating it; but, after following this thread, I just now tried to dissemble the joystick valve & lube it up. Ha!
My very first move was to squirt penetrating fluid down into the little holes -- with zero results!
As usual, it seems very complicated to dissemble? I removed the square black plastic housing (2 - 10mm bolts), then the metal casing holding it in place (2 - 12mm bolts), got the rubber boot slipped up top, now --- how does the rest of it dissemble? Mine is stuck in float position & I hoped grease/lube would free it up. I don't wanna end up breaking anything!
ALKY, what did you mean - explicitedly - regarding removing just the one bolt? I cannot excatly remember what you called it? Was it the large bolt/washer that holds joystick onto the square housing? Under the black rubber boot? Left or right hand thread? Just force grease down into it with a finger? A little help from someone whom has already encountered this perplexing problem is very much appreciated!!
I get through one & another pops it's ugly lil head up!! Thanks, Greg

 

[ALKY]

It is 2 allen head bolts on the front of the control valve.It is located under the right foot rest. You must remove the reverse hst pedal to get to it.If I remember correctly it is the valve towards the center of the tractor,the other is curl. With cap removed gently move the joystick to work the valve.Apply lightweight grease to spool after cleaning it. If you are not mechanically inclined Iwouldn't do it. There is one piece under the cap that falls out but it is fairly large. Any? just ask. STEVE:thumbsup: