tag to goose neck conversion

[dieselbeef]

After I built my gooseneck adapter, an engineer friend ran the numbers. He said it was good for 30,000-pounds. I got the beams off Craigs list. They were demoed out of Childrens Hospital in Seattle. They must be an M-shape, but I can't find there size in any of my books.

you have any pics of the adaptor..or did you convert it..i was thinking of an adaptor...set the original ball into the adapator and run some chain over the original frame where the new neck rails will run parallel to the original frame...kinda like a load leveler hitch has ...once its on the ball will carry the original wieght and the chains will keep it atatched. then use the gooseneck connection to go down the road..i wish i had cad or something to draw it

 

[Shield Arc]

dieselbeef I'm not sure I understand what it is you want to see. I built the adapters out of scrap steel. They bolt to the trailers with pad eyes welded to the trailers.

 

[LD1]

12-inches tall.
Flange width is 4 1/8-inches.
Flanges thickness is 1/4-inch.
Web thickness is 3/16-inch.

Sounds like W12x22 beam. Pretty common for a GN. IIRC that is what the beams for my 24k 25' GN are

It's main purpose is a heavy uniform load of hay. Approximately 300-350 bales at a time.
According to the original manufacturer this trailer the way that it sits is rated for a total combined weight of 21000 pounds. And the frame itself has a max load of 24000 pounds.

Any pictures? I dont think there is any way that a pair of stacked 2x4x1/4 tubes are going to be rated for 24k. Unless the trailer is 10 or 12' long.

The I-beams I mentioned are pretty common for a 24k GN trailer. And are 5x's stronger than what you have. And 6" channel is only half the strength of what you have now.

Without seeing any pictures, I am not going to suggest anything. A GN with 6" channel hitch and stacked 2x4x1/4" tubes is not something I would haul 20k+ on

 

[dieselbeef]

yeah i saw it man..i thought those were diff pics but i see it now.
i would like to do the same thing except follow the original frame to the front. not make a larger area out there by the ball. i dont need the floor space. then just weld the uprights to the sides of the new pieces paralelling the original frame. wouldnt make it much longer either that way. i think on my toyhauler moving the axles any farther back wouldnt be better. i would likely weld the side rails to the existing frame rails tho. poss chainover them but id need to see if that would work going down the road.

 

[Shield Arc]

I would much rather rely on welded pad eyes and bolts, than chains.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I dont think DOT would be too crazy about chain(s) holding a g/n adaptor to the trailer. Even a well built bolted on adaptor may raise some eyebrows and open some ticket books if the officer is being a richard that day... what happens to weight ratings and legal limits? That's not even opening the liability chapter in the book...

Not to say I wouldn't build one for my trailer, I have looked at Shield Arc's pics and would copy his design and pick his brain about it too. But no chains.

 

[Shield Arc]

Even a well built bolted on adaptor may raise some eyebrows and open some ticket books if the officer is being a richard that day... what happens to weight ratings and legal limits? That's not even opening the liability chapter in the book...

If any of you guys have concerns about my welding ability. If you ever decide to come out to the west coast, please PM me, and I'll give you a list of bridges not to drive over. Because my welds are holding them up!

 

[dieselcrawler]

I was in no way doubting your welding abilities... if I was going to tackle this project I would be asking your advice!

I sincerly hope I didnt come across as quectioning your welding skills... I've read meny of your posts and greatly admire your capabilities.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh no dieselcrawler, you don't know me from Adam. It should be a concern for all of us for anything that is put on the highway, and could jeopardize the safety of the public.
One of my pet peeves is a guy runs down to Home Depot, and buys a 120-volt Mig welder. Comes on these forums asking the most basic welding questions. Then states for his first welding project he is going to build a 20,000-pound trailer!:shocked:
No it's all good dieselcrawler!:thumbsup:

 

[dieselcrawler]

ShieldArc: Good to know... you are on my list of 'real welders that I would ask for advice'. Its a short list.


Everyone else: the concept of converting my bumper pull deck-over to g/n has intrieged me ever since I first saw pictures of ShieldArc's conversions. I am not going to say it shouldn't be done, but will say that meny aspects of the issues at hand need to be addressed. I would only build one for my own use, not for other people, largely due to the lieablity issues. In my case, I have my own trailer to compair to 2 other similar g/n trailers, from which I would copy measurements, in addition to asking ShieldArc numerous questions about his builds. My 20' bumper pull is more heavily built than both g/n's I have to compair to, thus I believe I would be safe hauling the same weight they do if I build my g/n adaptor out my the same heavier metal mine is made of. Another issue is the labeled weight rating, the factory tag says 9990 lbs gross, about 4k empty. But it has hauled over 11k payload easily, and felt safe doing so, just not legally. But if I were to leave my local area, and be checked by DOT, I bet they start writing tickets quickly, more so if they see a home made g/n adaptor. So there's lots of things to take into account in this endevor. Please do so safely and smartly, it may be me or my family that gets hurt if an under-engineered home built g/n adaptor comes apart.