Taking oak to sawmill

[czechsonofagun]

I have some oak logs worth milling - about 5 or so - and there can be more, since one more oak tree just died in the pasture.

My question is what thickness to have it milled to. I was thinking 2" thick, let it finish seasoning - it is partially dry - and then plane it to 1.5" lumber to use for tables and benches and doors and gates and such.

Wife says how about planks for the floor but I think you need much more and to have oak flooring for a pantry is not worth the effort. I don't even know what thickness board planks should be. Ideas or experience?

 

[smstonypoint]

I would try the Sawing and Drying forum over at woodweb.com
WOODWEB's Sawing and Drying Forum - Message Index

Steve

 

[brin]

Prokop - Really depends on what you want to use it for but 2 inch is awful thick..that is framing stuff...For furniture, panneling, gates or shelves would you not be better with 1 inch and then plane it down to 3/4 " ?

 

[Egon]

It's always tough to decide on thickness when the ultimate use is still to be determined.:laughing:

Chances are a two inch board will take twice as long to properly dry as compared to a one inch.

One inch boards may give a little less wastage and not require resawing for projects use.

 

[woodsmith]

It also depends on the quality of the timber and how it will be sawn.
Flat sawn boards will cup readily and at 1" you could end up with very thin boards once surfaced and thicknessed or you turn them into thin rhomboid sticks.

Quarter sawn will be more stable but there will still be shrinkage.

As a furniture maker I would flat saw some at 2" and quarter saw some at 1 1/4" to get the best out of the log. Oak is very wasteful anyway so I would be less concerned about sawn thickness going into the extraction bag.
If the mill is sawing through and through then saw the first few at 2" and then as the saw is about 1/3 of the way through the log close up to 1 1/4" and then finish the last third at 2" again.

The practicality of doing that also depends on the size of the logs. If the logs are small then it doesn't matter. With big logs I would want to have a say in orientation in the mill and maybe getting book matched boards from the centre for table tops.

 

[montyhp]

I have always done 5/4. That way you end up with 1" after drying and planing.

If you go less then you may end up with a significant quantity of unusable wood.

Montyhp

 

[schmism]

problem with 2" planks is they are going to be virtually impossible to move by hand if of any size 2x10x10?

I suppose it all depends on what projects you have around that you need lumber for.

Most oak is usually cut to 4/4 (1") for barn sideing, etc. although 2" is also used for trailer flooring. 5/4 for fence rails and 6/4 for barn stall sideing. again usually has to do with what projects the owner has plans for.

you could always go 2" and latter resaw to 1" or otherwise for other projects....

 

[scott_vt]

I have always done 5/4. That way you end up with 1" after drying and planing.

If you go less then you may end up with a significant quantity of unusable wood.

Montyhp

Good Afternoon Czech,
I agree with Monty... 5/4 will yield some real usable lumber with out a real long drying process

Also 5/4 even when slightly warped, will give you 1" or 3/4" when joined and planed, with much more uses in that size range IMO !

But to be fair to yourself, I would also saw up some 8/4 also, then you have table legs if you need them down the road.....

 

[Lloyd_E]

You could do a variety; 5/4 6/4 8/4 or larger along with quarter sawn. I would also do some 3/4 to be planned down to 1/2" for light table tops or small boxes etc. Air drying takes an average - depending on the wood - 1 year per inch. You may want to look at kiln drying as well. This will add to cost but the tree is free!

Also, at a later date you could resaw the thicker stuff. Sticker them well and add weight to the top board.

I would also paint the ends with oil paint or paraffin wax. This will lessen the checking on the ends.

Sounds interesting.

Take pics if you can.