Tank Oil Change

[marrt]

You could probably put a shop vac hose over the oil cap hole (where you pour the oil into the tank) to create negative pressure in the tank. This might help reduce the mess when the drain cap is first removed and you're attempting to put a hose over the drain cap nipple.

 

[Barryh]

Thanks Marrt ,

I did the oil change out today thought I would be done, go figure. When I bought the machine the guy had a hose in the box.. I figured it was the air bleeder hose .

Guessing from the large fittings it was a by pass hose you need when moving the machine so you don't damage the pumps.. Guess I'll have to wait until this week call Terry and order a bleeder hose to finish the job.. Bought this little drill pump but it was so slow I just went ahead and removed the hex plug.

Turns out the oil didn't have sludge like I first thought. Turns out it was pretty clean with the exception of I did see some tiny metal specs .. They may have been break in metal from the new drill pump. Thanks for everyone's advice and help. Now on to Synthetic oil change for the Kolher engine.

 

[aczlan]

One thought, on re-priming the pump afterwards, if you took a air nozzle like you would use to blow off dust and wrapped it in the shop rag or some plastic, you could stick it in the fill hole and slightly pressurize the oil tank to help prime the pump faster.

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks Marrt ,

I did the oil change out today thought I would be done, go figure. When I bought the machine the guy had a hose in the box.. I figured it was the air bleeder hose .

Guessing from the large fittings it was a by pass hose you need when moving the machine so you don't damage the pumps.. Guess I'll have to wait until this week call Terry and order a bleeder hose to finish the job.. Bought this little drill pump but it was so slow I just went ahead and removed the hex plug.

Turns out the oil didn't have sludge like I first thought. Turns out it was pretty clean with the exception of I did see some tiny metal specs .. They may have been break in metal from the new drill pump. Thanks for everyone's advice and help. Now on to Synthetic oil change for the Kolher engine.

Doesn't your Kohler call for 30W?

 

[Barryh]

Doesn't your Kohler call for 30W?

Yes .. I meant 10w30 not the 40 but in synthetic oil ...

 

[MossRoad]

I think I confused your 40 for the tank and the picture of the 40 with th engine oil change. :laughing:

Anyhow.... good job. :thumbsup:

 

[Barryh]

I think I confused your 40 for the tank and the picture of the 40 with th engine oil change. :laughing:

Anyhow.... good job. :thumbsup:

Yeah I should have been more clear in my description ... Appears this is my bleed port and has a threaded nipple.. I have not taken the cap off yet .. Your thoughts do you see any reason why I can't just thread a section of gas hose onto the nipple here to bleed the air out and back into the tank instead of ordering a hose from Power Trac ... May even use a hose clamp ..

 

[MuncyBob]

I would think any hose that makes an air tight & secure seal will do the trick. Could probably get a hose made at NAPA store too, save on shipping from Tazewell unless you need other things?

 

[MossRoad]

The only reason I have fittings on both ends of my bleeder hose is that it doubles as my tow hose. If I didn't need a tow hose, I'd have just kept the factory-supplied bleeder hose that had just one fitting on one end, and a cut off hose on the other.

As mentioned, I guess when bleeding is you just want an air-tight connection where the hose meets the bleed port, and a hose that's long enough to get the other end submerged in the tank oil.

 

[SpringHollow]

Just go to your local tractor supply and get a premade hose - pretty cheap

Ken