Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install

   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #11  
I went with two 10' gates. Less weight, easier to open one typically or two if driving a large vehicle in. I will add wheel on mine but take them off in winter.
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #12  
This is my heavy duty 20 tractor supply gate with mighty mule opener.

Posts are 8x8x12 PT 4 deep 15 80lb bags of quickcrete in each hole and the gate with hinges has a guy wire that goes back 40 in the woods.

I think the gate is around 250-300 lbs.
 
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   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #13  
View attachment 612869

This is my heavy duty 20’ tractor supply gate with mighty mule opener.

Posts are 8x8x12 PT 4’ deep 15 80lb bags of quickcrete in each hole and the gate with hinges has a guy wire that goes back 40’ in the woods.

I think the gate is around 250-300 lbs.
That gate opener doesn't look like it will be working properly for a few years...
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #14  
That gate opener doesn't look like it will be working properly for a few years...

Not sure what happened with that picture haha. Im sure I clicked the picture with the gate. I'll fix it :)
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #15  
Hello,
I installed one across my lane about 8 years ago. I used a small I-beam that I had and it has worked great. The I-beam is what I attached the hinges to and then used a piece of 5" diameter steel pipe (filled with concrete) for it to close against. I live in the mountains so the ground is rocky. My buddy used an auger on his skid steer to dig the hole. The hole got pretty big due to all the big rocks and I used (16) 80lb. bags of concrete mix to fill in around it. That I-beam isn't going anywhere !!!!!

MFWD
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #16  
IMG_2028.JPG

Got the correct picture now I hope!
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #17  
I have no idea what my phone is doing with these pictures. It posted the wrong picture again sorry guys. I’ll get this fixed!
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install
  • Thread Starter
#18  
The 16' gate is about 150 lbs or so.

HD sells 6x6 square treated (Copper Azole) wood posts in 8' lengths for like $35. Problem with treated wood is that it dries out and can warp/twist over time. It never stays true and square.

I'm leaning towards getting a thick walled steel square tube post and anchoring that into the ground with concrete. Stronger and won't twist/warp like wood.
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #19  
The 16' gate is about 150 lbs or so.

HD sells 6x6 square treated (Copper Azole) wood posts in 8' lengths for like $35. Problem with treated wood is that it dries out and can warp/twist over time. It never stays true and square.

I'm leaning towards getting a thick walled steel square tube post and anchoring that into the ground with concrete. Stronger and won't twist/warp like wood.
The weight isnt the problem, it's the leverage. Hanging 8-18' out there 50lbs generates way more force on that post than 500lbs close up.

I have some lighter 18' gates that havent pulled over my posts. Crossbars are 4' up, posts are burried 30" down. All tamped dirt rather than concrete. Properly tamped in our clay there was no difference in the force required to pull out 20 year old posts set in concrete vs dirt.

The most important part for me though is properly tensioning the fence & doing crossbracing. That wire transfers load into other posts & keeps everything tight & plumb. I hooked up the fence puller to the bucket on my L3200 in 2wd with no ballast. Backed up until it lost traction then stapled in the fence. Nice & tight with the crossbars keeping the posts from pulling over.

Speaking of crossbars, a really tall post & criss bar like a ranch arch looks nice & keeps the post from leaning. Definitely not practical to put up for most people on a driving gate. Good on a man gate though.20170711_102633.jpgDSC06434.JPG
 
   / Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install #20  
My 6x6s are not buried very deep due to the incredibly hard packed red rock gravel. One guy tried with a PHD and barely dented the surface. I ended up using an air impact chisel to break the ground a few inches at a time, then pulled the loosened rock out with a manual clamshell digger. Even at that, I could only get around 20" deep. I tethered the gate side to a T-Post driven as deep as I could set about 10 feet back using a chain and turnbuckle. Neither post has moved in well over 10 years. I can't remember if I added concrete in the holes or just repacked the gravel.
 

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