Tarter 16' Wide Steel Gate - Install

[goeduck]

I installed a heavy 16 foot gate in 2012 and it is hanging perfectly level to this day. I used a surplus 10 foot large diameter electric utility galvanized conduit since I had it. I sunk it at least 5 feet and used probably 1300 lbs of concrete in the hole. I set the post to the gate side of the hole so the concrete would act as a counterweight since it was not going to have any support other than the post and concrete. I do have a rock under the latch end, the rock settled a 1/4 inch or so such that the gate no longer sits on it when closed. I should fix that in case someone decides to climb over that end of the gate. We have family gatherings of city folk that would do such a thing. I used barb wire hoops every few inches (simple) and a few rebars as vertical reinforcement. No fancy form just stick the rebar into the concrete before it dries. You want the concrete to form up to the virgin dirt in the hole. I did top dress the hole with a 2x4 square above grade to make it look better but that is all.

 

[PineBrookFarm]

This is my heavy duty 20 tractor supply gate with mighty mule opener.

Posts are 8x8x12 PT 4 deep 15 80lb bags of quickcrete in each hole and the gate with hinges has a guy wire that goes back 40 in the woods.

I think the gate is around 250-300 lbs.

Finally should have the correct pictures posted of my 20' gate with mighty mule and 8x8 PT post.

 

[goeduck]

This is how I attached to my galvanized post. This is a farm gate, not a driveway gate so it is not as purdy as some of the others. The top U bolt is doing nothing, it just got left there.

 

[Doofy]

Finally should have the correct pictures posted of my 20' gate with mighty mule and 8x8 PT post.

Gate and posts look great but won't the turd-knockers just drive around the ends? I guess you could construct a tank trap or something.

 

[PineBrookFarm]

Gate and posts look great but won't the turd-knockers just drive around the ends? I guess you could construct a tank trap or something.

My plan is to place some large rocks along each side of the gate. Just haven't found the time yet. Although there is a pretty good ditch to the left that my lifted jeep will go through but your not taking a regular vehicle through it unless maybe its super dry and you have a wrangler or other fairly capable stock vehicle.

 

[goeduck]

Gate and posts look great but won't the turd-knockers just drive around the ends? I guess you could construct a tank trap or something.

For the record, my cows are turd makers, not turd knockers. And they cannot drive, so no worry. :laughing:

That said, my overall fence condition (miles and miles of it) makes for the honor system. Staying inside is a learned behavior ... until they get hungry :shocked:

 

[Pettrix]

Contacted my local steel shop. A 10 foot long square tube steel that is 4"x4" and 1/4" thick steel is $150.

If I bury this 2-3 feet deep and encase in concrete. That should be plenty of stout at 1/4" thick steel to support the 16' wide and 150lb gate, right??

 

[Fallon]

Contacted my local steel shop. A 10 foot long square tube steel that is 4"x4" and 1/4" thick steel is $150.

If I bury this 2-3 feet deep and encase in concrete. That should be plenty of stout at 1/4" thick steel to support the 16' wide and 150lb gate, right??

The utility pole formula is 10% of the pole + 2'. Not quite the same scenario, but close. That comes to 3' on a 10' pole, which is about what I did on my 8' poles. A few of which hold gates fine. Utility poles (and mine) are also back filled with dirt or gravel, not concrete. You have to beat the bejesus out of that dirt with a tamping bar, but in most soul types it will hold as well or better than concrete.

The killer for gates is force over time. If the soil is soft or not tamped in hard, over time it will slowly migrate over. Even if you do concrete or tamp well it can still start leaning if there is no support from a fence or guy wire pulling the opposite direction of the gate.

 

[Pettrix]

So it's decision day. Which should I buy to hold up the steel 16' gate? :

A - 4"x4" square tube steel (1/4" thick wall) x 10' long
B - 4.50" circular tube steel (schedule 40 - .237 thick wall) x 10' long

The advantage square tubing has is that the gate threaded bolt can be attached on flat surface with a nut and washer. I am assuming square would be a little stronger when it comes to the gate putting stress on the top.

 

[goeduck]

So it's decision day. Which should I buy to hold up the steel 16' gate? :

A - 4"x4" square tube steel (1/4" thick wall) x 10' long
B - 4.50" circular tube steel (schedule 40 - .237 thick wall) x 10' long

The advantage square tubing has is that the gate threaded bolt can be attached on flat surface with a nut and washer. I am assuming square would be a little stronger when it comes to the gate putting stress on the top.

With those choices I would tend to square.