TC 35 Stuck on two stumps

[Carykong]

sorry for that massive image. can anyone edit that out?

 

[JC-jetro]

sorry for that massive image. can anyone edit that out?

Yes, it appears that you should remove the drive shaft on the transmission side and withdraw the sleeve if there is enough play there. Only way to avoid it is if you had a two piece sleeve that cover top and bottom of drive shaft that were bolted together.

 

[Carykong]

Hey JC-Jet,

Thank you for confirming my thoughts. To avoid dropping the shaft. What do you think of me cutting the bent and dinged sleeve off and leaving the shaft exposed? I have always wanted to install a skid pan. Is the tube really important? other than protecting the shaft from a blow? Does the shaft serve some kind of dirt and dust barrier?

 

[JC-jetro]

Hey JC-Jet,

Thank you for confirming my thoughts. To avoid dropping the shaft. What do you think of me cutting the bent and dinged sleeve off and leaving the shaft exposed? I have always wanted to install a skid pan. Is the tube really important? other than protecting the shaft from a blow? Does the shaft serve some kind of dirt and dust barrier?

In my opinion the shaft sleeve is for safety issue as unprotected drive shaft might grab stuff as you go over different terrain. I can visualize how easily it can grab certain long vegetation and cause danger and other operational problem. The sleeve is he same as pto shaft safety cover that you see comes with a lot of implements. secondly it is a cover to protect the end of drive shaft as I don't see good seal there. If you use a portaband band saw to cut outer sleeve while rotating it then the end would be dangling without support and again causes noise and interference with drive shaft. I have looked a typical fwa mechanism for my 1700 and it seem pretty easy to disassemble. I'm sure guys will chime in but if I were to do it then I would do it by removing 4 bolts that there is in the lower transmission housing, withdraw the sleeve, repair and replace as necessary and put it back together after I greased up the shaft some.

JC,

Ps. Skid plate is a great idea with or without the sleeve.

 

[Eagleview]

Just curious as to how you managed to get so much clearance on the end of the outer tube , is it telescopic ? Maybe the shaft itself is also buy pushing in a pin at the hole shown in sleeve .

 

[jinman]

Just curious as to how you managed to get so much clearance on the end of the outer tube , is it telescopic ? Maybe the shaft itself is also buy pushing in a pin at the hole shown in sleeve .

In the diagram below, items #28 and #29 are bolted together on each end of the shaft cover to hold it into place (one of these covers on both ends). In Cary's pictures, the covers have been removed and the mating collar with the rollpin is exposed.

Cary: The instructions in the Repair Manual say for removal of the driveline shaft and cover, to first remove the covers as you have done and then drive out the rollpins from the mating collars at both ends. This will allow you to move the collars back onto the shaft and let it drop straight down with the cover. Then you can slide off the cover and straighten it or replace it as required.

In my opinion, you will be doing a much harder job trying to cut off the driveline shaft cover than to just remove the shaft and cover as instructed in the manual. All you need to remove the rollpins is a drift punch the right size and a hammer. Re-installation should also be very easy. You've already done the hardest part by removing the covers.

EDIT: Sorry, I forgot the image and my computer crashed as soon as I posted. The image should now be shown attached.

 

[Carykong]

thank you JC and Jinman for advisories. I will remove the shaft cover by dropping the shaft rather than cutting the shaft cover. Will send a picture of the cover once removed.

 

[The Haymaker]

Just curious as to how you managed to get so much clearance on the end of the outer tube , is it telescopic ? Maybe the shaft itself is also buy pushing in a pin at the hole shown in sleeve .

Shouldn't there be a rubber boot over that exposed portion?

Someone also mentioned the shaft should be "dry". My T2220 has a grease fitting on the sleeve, along with a boot that hose clamps to the end of the sleeve and the round, raised, area on the back of the pumpkin.

E

 

[Eagleview]

Thanks jinman , that is similar to how I imagined it would be .

TH , not sure about being lubed , maybe the shaft splines need a squirt of grease occasionally .

 

[jinman]

Shouldn't there be a rubber boot over that exposed portion?

Someone also mentioned the shaft should be "dry". My T2220 has a grease fitting on the sleeve, along with a boot that hose clamps to the end of the sleeve and the round, raised, area on the back of the pumpkin.

E

No grease fittings on the TC35/40/45 tractors. There is one on the front axle pivot (it's visible in the photo) and none on the drop-box on the transmission. This cover is normally loose and if you grab one of the flanges on one end, you can move it around slightly because it is loose. I guess if you were driving fast on a rough road, it might even rattle, but you'd likely not hear it for all the other rattles. It is completely dry with a small clearance for the shaft. If it gets bent. . . well, Cary can tell you what you get: squeek...squawk.

BTW: If the cover is bent, there's a good chance the shaft is also bent slightly. When you remove the shaft, you need to sight down it or roll it on a flat surface to see if is bent at all.