TC33d - Possible starting problem fix

[MikeBurr]

For two years I, like others, have had problems with the tractor failing to start. I went through all the fixes that have appeared within the group, new key switch, new glow plug relay, added the extra relay to the starter, put in a new battery. But the tractor still would no start all the time. Many times it would just go click and not start. I had gotten use to turning the key as fast as I could in hopes of catching it just right to get the starter to engage. The problem was a little worse if the engine was warm.

To make a couple of years worth of trouble and costly parts, the final answer that I found that so far has cured my problems was to simply run a grounding wire from the metal firewall to the frame of the tractor. Now it starts every time with no problems.

Hope this helps someone that is having problems, wish I had done this to start with...

 

[jinman]

Mike, I have not looked on my tractor, but are you saying the firewall is not already grounded through its mounting hardware? My tractor will act up at least a couple of times per year and normally works after I tap on the solenoid, but I wouldn't guarantee anyone that's really associated with the problem.

 

[dford]

Jim, Ground is just as important as the feed but, you do not see the wirring going to the starter since you depend on metal connections that get rusty or loose over time. Click on start can be a numer of problems. Low voltage to starter solinode. Poor gound to solinode or starter. Starter could be loosing groung to solinode inside the starter. Measuring feed and gound on click to start will tell wich of three problems it is. Low feed to switch. Poor gound or internal starter problem. Hope this helps.

 

[MikeBurr]

I too would think that there is a firm metal to metal contact between the two parts, but maybe the the firewall is rubber mounted to keep the vibration down or some other part that connects the two has worn down. I seem to reminber that when I was trying some of the fixes that my volt meter would show a low value between a +12 volt contact and the firewall. Also it seems funny that everything worked great for the first 2 years that I had the tractor and then things started working off and on. For now, I hope the ground keeps working....

 

[dford]

Have you looked at a wirring diagram to trace ground side?

 

[jinman]

I too would think that there is a firm metal to metal contact between the two parts, but maybe the the firewall is rubber mounted to keep the vibration down or some other part that connects the two has worn down. I seem to reminber that when I was trying some of the fixes that my volt meter would show a low value between a +12 volt contact and the firewall. Also it seems funny that everything worked great for the first 2 years that I had the tractor and then things started working off and on. For now, I hope the ground keeps working....

Mike, you may have found the solution to many different intermittent problems associated with electrics. 1/2 of every electrical circuit is ground. If it is floating somewhere above actual frame ground, it sure ain't good.

 

[thclimer]

Hi Mike,

Can you take a picture of your added ground wire for all of us to see?

Tim

For two years I, like others, have had problems with the tractor failing to start. I went through all the fixes that have appeared within the group, new key switch, new glow plug relay, added the extra relay to the starter, put in a new battery. But the tractor still would no start all the time. Many times it would just go click and not start. I had gotten use to turning the key as fast as I could in hopes of catching it just right to get the starter to engage. The problem was a little worse if the engine was warm.

To make a couple of years worth of trouble and costly parts, the final answer that I found that so far has cured my problems was to simply run a grounding wire from the metal firewall to the frame of the tractor. Now it starts every time with no problems.

Hope this helps someone that is having problems, wish I had done this to start with...

 

[MikeBurr]

Don't think a picture is needed, I just took a length of normal plastic covered auto wire, cleaned the ends, loosen a bolt on the frame and the firewall, wraped the wire ends around the bolts and retighten the bolts. Got on the tractor and for a change it started right up.

 

[dqdave1]

isnt firewall plastic with metal inserts in plastic for bolts?

 

[cardenharry]

I am a big believer in the 30 amp relay that has been posted here in the past to fix this type problem. Mine has not failed since this was added. My relay is attached to the firewall and the ground wire is attached to a bolt below the clutch area.

 

[thclimer]

I wonder if your relay and ground wire combo accomplished what Mike did by just adding the ground wire. Is it maybe just the ground wire which is needed? I haven't had a chance to make this addition to my TC33D yet, but being that it's so simple I'll get to it sometime in the next week or so.

I am a big believer in the 30 amp relay that has been posted here in the past to fix this type problem. Mine has not failed since this was added. My relay is attached to the firewall and the ground wire is attached to a bolt below the clutch area.

 

[Barabajackal]

A few months ago I purchased a TC29D. The previous owner was up front about the annoying problem of clicking instead of starting. And, when the engine did turn over it sounded like it had a weak battery.

The previous owner had the starter checked, replaced the solenoid, the ignition switch, the battery, and finally the battery cables. He gave up on fixing the problem.

I read about adding the relay to the starting system here and thought it made sense. Before starting the project I found this thread and decided to bond the firewall to the frame first. The problem persisted.

I then followed the most helpful schematics and added the relay. That solved the problem for me.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this solution!

BJ

 

[candmgreen]

I have a 2003 TC33D with the same problem. I tried the ground wire but that didn't work. Where did you get the info on adding the relay?
Thanks

 

[thclimer]

Here is a link which I think has all the info. you should need:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting/127106-dx-33-starting-problem-fixed.html

The fix has woked for me now for may years, good luck.

 

[candmgreen]

Thanks thclimer,
I will gather all the parts I need and try them out. I will let you know if it works.

 

[B Wood]

I had a starting problem with my 2002 TC 33D, You would turn the key to start it and it would just click, and you would keep doing this a few times and it would finally start, I blamed it on the solenoid, checked it out, had power going to the solenoid when in the start position, checked with a test light not a volt meter, anyway the key switch decided to pack it in, felt like the tumblers inside the switch were sticking, anyway the dealer only wanted 82.00 for the piece of Chinese junk switch , so I bought a good heavy duty U.S.A. made switch at a truck parts store for 16.00 installed it and now it works fine If I had of checked the power at the solenoid energize wire with a volt meter I probably would have found low voltage.

 

[ricknelson]

OK, after taking the starter off cleaning it and bench testing it, replacing all the fuses, and checking the stupid safety switches! I am still with out a means to plow my driveway. Dose anybody have a simple technique for hot wireing this machine so that I can get the god **** bucket out of my friggin' way?

 

[dqdave1]

Need to know exactly what the machine is doing; clicking, nothing, no lights on dash, power to key switch? Need more info.

 

[ricknelson]

Well, like everyone on here with the same problem, the lights all work the starter bench tested fine, and it just clicks when the key is turned and pushed in. Given that for 13 years I had no problems I have no intention of adding another relay. That is stupid to say the least! I went out this morning and unhooked the solenoid wire, made-up a short jumper wire that hooks to the terminal on the starter and then started the ******* up and plowed my driveway. So when it warms up outside I am going to by-pass every safety switch on the thing and put a skull and cross bone flag on the roll-bar incase one of my so-called friends wants to borrow it and bring it back out of fuel and broken again.(long story) Problem solved!

Need to know exactly what the machine is doing; clicking, nothing, no lights on dash, power to key switch? Need more info.

 

[ricknelson]

I don't know about this relay issue? I mean.... I went 13 years without incident, then suddenly(on the coldest day) my rig decides to lay down on the job. The simple ground wire solution is what I'll try, then if that ain't it, those switches are history!They really are junk looking, like some commie made em'. Have you ever priced out switches for these things? Even the simple brake light switch(which my friend busted) is over $70.00!My horse only needs one rider, and that's me. Anybody tries to steal it in the night, and I hope they start it in gear and get run over. Maybe I'll hang a 12 pack of Bud Light off the steering wheel as bait and hope my good friend Jared tries to borrow it without asking again??