TC33D wont start

[irwin]

Did you remove all main connections, clean and resecure? that means positive at battery, fuseblock, and starter, then the ground at battery and block/frame. Your problem sounds like a poor ground or internal short in a component, Starter or alternator, or even glowplug timer controler or connection.

Then we move to the ignition switch itself, and the pigtail, look for corrosion, from there to the trigger wire (it's the small wire at the starter) corrosion has caused some hard to isolate no start conditions.

Without test equipment I'd start at the wires, carefully cleaning contact areas, and making secure. After eliminating connections widen the search.

Sometimes corrosion will get inside battery cable covering. More a few have had to replace the cables. Look for signs of corrosion and try to address it. Apply dielectric grease before resecuring connections, it'll help slow corrosion. If it doesn't solve the issue, you've at least improved your electrical system by fighting future problems.

 

[smitty9266]

sounds like a dead short in the starter. Disconnect the battery lead at the starter, turn the key see if you still get the voltage drop.
you will need to use a bolt to keep any wires at the starter bolted together to pass voltage to anything connected at the starter.

Good luck

Jeff

 

[sherpa]

Every time I hear of an electrical problem like this, I really wish I could be there with my trusty VOM to do some troubleshooting. This really intrigues me as much as I know it must frustrate you. I hope you find the problem soon.

I wish you were here too!!!!!

Its frustrating at times but I am learning my way around on my tractor and getting a good education so that helps. I will be more confident when I am away from the property using it knowing I can get it going again.

Its not the starter, I took the starter off and tested it and it worked fine.
I replace the starter and checked it on the tractor and it did turn the engine over with the tractor battery,(thats straight from the battery without using the switch, still nothing with the switch on.)

I am measuring the voltage at the starter big wire which has no corrosion and is in like new condition.

I suspect VOM means voltage ohm meter?
I got one here.

I agree, it does sound like a bad connection somewhere.
I have noticed that I cant get a continunity test/buzz from all the frame on the tractor but I grounded it with the booster cable to make sure I was grounded. I will go back and remove ground wires and clean them up.

Another question as far as safety switch wires. There are four wires in the left rear switch over the rear axle, 2 yellow wires and 2 greens.
do I cross the yellow and greens or yellow and yellow?
sherpa

 

[FULLPULL]

As others have said the starter relay would be a good place to look . This is my best guess also.

 

[sherpa]

OK, It痴 fixed!!!!!!!!

You will never believe what it was and how I found it.
It was the factory molded positive battery cable end.
The cable still looks like new, shiny and red.
I was getting 12 volts through it fine.
I check the continuity of the cable and it was a little low.
I drilled a 1/8 inch hole about 1/4 inch deep into the lead part of the cable near the end where the cable starts in and was able to get full continuity.

The cable looks brand new but somewhere inside the lead part is an unseen and undetectable partial break.

It would show 12 volts every time just to make you think it was fine.

Man what a feeling to hear that engine come to life!

I can take the same old cable I cut the end off with the naked wire and hold it to the battery now it fires up every time.

Thanks folks, I would have surely given up if it had not been for coming into the house and getting these encouraging post. Every time you guys posted something it gave me new sprit.

Now, lets work on someone else痴 tractor awhile.
Happy Independence Day!
Sherpa

 

[sherpa]

Man, it feels good sitting here relaxing drinking a cold pepsi knowing my tractor is fixed. I been worring with it for 3 days.

I am glad I didnt have to buy one of them new $400 starters, thats crazy.
I would take my old starter to a starter-generator shop first and let them rebuild it before I spent $400. There is no way that starter could be that much, how can NH justify that? Are starter prices that high for the other brands of tractors?

Its hard telling what a new 4 foot battery cable would cost? I got me a new battery cable end coming. I live out in the sticks about 25 miles from the parts place. My nephew and his family are coming to visit and he is picking me up a battery cable end on his way here.
Thanks again fellows!
sherpa

 

[WTA]

At the local starter/generator shop I've been dealing with for years here I have never once spent more than 75 bucks for any job. I've taken in stuff froms riding mower starters to big monster JD tractor starters. He's always treated me right and never once have I had to ever mess with anything he worked on again either.
I can't say the same for the several new and rebuilt starters and alternators I've bought from parts houses. My wifes hot rod would trash the alternator every time it rained untill I had that shop rebuild it. My last pickup trashed three starters under warranty untill he fixed that right too.

 

[WTA]

On those cables if you have an air compressor and die grinder then use a scotch brite pad on all of your cable ends untill they are bright and shiny. On all the frame and starter connections too. It helps. Especially on your ground cable. Take all the paint off and clean the cable end till it shines then put it together.

 

[irwin]

Man, it feels good sitting here relaxing drinking a cold pepsi knowing my tractor is fixed. I been worring with it for 3 days.

That's great, good. I love a happy ending.

 

[Egon]

Good show!

Sure glad it wasn't the clutch!

 

[thclimer]

Wow, glad you found the problem. Yep sometimes it's the really simple things, but it sure was faking you out by you still being able to measure 12 volts.

 

[jinman]

Man what a feeling to hear that engine come to life!

Happy Independence Day!
Sherpa

Let me add my congratulations. How appropriate that you found that problem on Independence Day and you did it by yourself. . . even if you did have a lot of your TBN friends pulling for you.

We had a great 4th also.

 

[sherpa]

Yes, it was a hard to find problem and it gave me a fit but I sure learn a lot.

I learn how to take a tractor apart, I think someone called them cowls?

I learn how to take the starter switch apart and test it.

I learn how to test a starter.

I learn that the little purple wire on the back of the starter is what makes the starter engage and start the engine.

I learn how to remove a starter and put it back, that was easy.

I learn how to test a glow plug timer.

You guys are awesome! You sure know your way around tractors.
Thanks to all again,
sherpa

 

[barneyrb]

One more thing, EVERY time I replace cables, a battery, or clean ground connections I use an anti-oxidation compund that I bought in an electrical supply house. It is made to put alum and copper together (in lugs). Corrosion problems have been a not so fond memory.

 

[ez2blarryb]

Just wanted to say thanks. I stopped to fuel up yesterday morning and then it would not start. Read through the posts and the symptoms were the same for my TC33. Ran out and purchased two new cables, installed them and problem solved thanks to all your work.

 

[sherpa]

How about that! I am glad you didnt have to go through 3 days of work trying to find the problem.
sherpa

 

[jedjoe]

Wow! This story is remarkable! I'm reading this thread because this morning my tc 35 developed the EXACT SAME symptoms!!! Came to my TC buddies for advice. Was working fine drag harrowing a field, then shut it off to get out of the field gate. Tried to start it and it acted EXACTLY the same way yours did Sherpa! Same symptoms, same buzzing, same voltage drop.....hmmmm. I am going to investigate both of my cables tomorrow first thing and see what happens. Curiously my 35 is also 4 years old, but with 1300 hours on it. I'll be back to post the results and if no luck, seek the advise of those of you here wiser and more experienced than me. Sherpa, thanks for the post, and thanks to everyone who replied. This is consistently the best place to get reliable, level headed counsel.

 

[jinman]

Wow! This story is remarkable! I'm reading this thread because this morning my tc 35 developed the EXACT SAME symptoms!!!

On your 35, be sure to look to see if the PTO light is illuminated when the PTO lever is off. If so, you have to replace fuse #2 also. Good luck troubleshooting your problem.

 

[jedjoe]

Thanks, Jim. I'll check that as well and let you guys know the progress.

 

[jedjoe]

haven't looked at #2 fuse yet, but saw it yesterday. Is that the one under the instrument cluster in the 2nd slot from the left? If memory serves me, it was larger than the others with a metallic sheath (rather than the clear plastic). Is that the one you mean?