TC33D wont start

[jedjoe]

Okay, so I checked both cables for good conductivity, and finally just cleaned both the battery terminals and the lead connectors very thoroughly. Put the battery charger to the terminals and everything worked great. Final theory: Just a poor connection between cables and battery, resulting in a weakened connection and probably undercharging of the battery while running. Sherpa: thanks for having this problem one week before me, instead of one week after me! Jinman:

 

[jinman]

haven't looked at #2 fuse yet, but saw it yesterday. Is that the one under the instrument cluster in the 2nd slot from the left? If memory serves me, it was larger than the others with a metallic sheath (rather than the clear plastic). Is that the one you mean?

Yes, that is the one. The fact that it looks different and has a metal sheath may be an indication that yours has a circuit breaker installed instead of the fuse. If so, that's a good thing. You won't have to replace the fuse, and the circuit breaker will automatically reset.

 

[jedjoe]

Thanks Jinman. As you can see by the previous post, all is now well!

 

[sherpa]

I also received a PM about a starting problem on a Case DX33.
Is a Case DX33 the same as a New Holland TC33D?
sherpa

 

[SteveInMD]

Yes, it's mostly the same. Can you give any details about the PM?

 

[sherpa]

Yes, it's mostly the same. Can you give any details about the PM?

About the same problem as others have mention above.
It will not start after shut off, but will start with a boost.
He has already put in a fresh battery which didnt help.
He mainly wanted to know how to test the starter.
Sounds like cables again or bad connection to me.
sherpa

 

[SteveInMD]

I believe many of our tractors suffer from a problem with the circuit that sends power from the key to the starter solenoid. The circuit has many safety interlock switches. It seems that as the tractor ages a dirt or corrosion at these switches creates a little resistance at each one. Eventually you end up with insufficient voltage at the starter solenoid to trigger it. You will first notice it after the tractor sits for a bit and the battery is not at 100% charge. A battery boost will increase the voltage enough to get it started. The lower voltage will increase the current draw on this circuit and can blow the fuse.

There is an elusive service bulletin on the subject that I have yet to get a copy of. Basically the fix is to add another circuit that sends power directly to the solenoid. You just use a relay at the end of the safety interlock circuit that controls the new circuit. This fix does not eliminate any of the safety interlocks. It only takes a few volts and very little current to trigger the relay so the low voltage and current in that circuit no longer matter.

I believe if you are having any starting problems you need to complete this fix before trying to diagnose the problem.

 

[Sunrise Acres]

I got the same problem on my TC33D

My local New Holland dealer had no idea but I did find one that did.
I talked to JIM at Simpson's Tractor in Richland Center, Wisconsin
Simpson's Tractor
1710 east Hwy 14
Richland Center, Wisconsin 53581
Simpson's Tractor Inc Online
608-647-6343


He had the parts on hand and drew me a schematic to do the wiring.

The problems is just what you fiquired out 7-8 volts at the starter.

1) New Holland relay Part # 86529089 (I25BX3)
1) New Holland Connector # 245731C1(H15BX2)
4) New Holland # 225077C1 Terminal F14BX3
2) UA #AT030 Fuse Holder LI-(rack)
2) UA HP3090 Fuse Holder (rack)
6) Misc Crimp Ends

Total cost is: $50.20

I wired it my self. it took about 1 Hour.
It's worth the call

 

[SteveInMD]

Yes - that's the correct fix. The circuit breaker option is a band-aid solution.

 

[MikePA]

I got the same problem on my TC33D

My local New Holland dealer had no idea but I did find one that did.
I talked to JIM at Simpson's Tractor in Richland Center, Wisconsin
Simpson's Tractor
1710 east Hwy 14
Richland Center, Wisconsin 53581
Simpson's Tractor Inc Online
608-647-6343


He had the parts on hand and drew me a schematic to do the wiring.

The problems is just what you fiquired out 7-8 volts at the starter.

1) New Holland relay Part # 86529089 (I25BX3)
1) New Holland Connector # 245731C1(H15BX2)
4) New Holland # 225077C1 Terminal F14BX3
2) UA #AT030 Fuse Holder LI-(rack)
2) UA HP3090 Fuse Holder (rack)
6) Misc Crimp Ends

Total cost is: $50.20

I wired it my self. it took about 1 Hour.
It's worth the call

I assume the dealer's schematic was the same as Steve's?

Steve - Could you attached your diagram, then I will make this thread a Sticky.

 

[SteveInMD]

See attachment

 

[MDT1110]

Steve,
Does this issue apply to other models such as T1110 as well? Mine is still new and so far not one issue....

Cheers

 

[SteveInMD]

I've not seen complaints about the T1110 on this subject.

The original circuit (that triggers the starter solenoid) was drawing a lot of power causing a slower than optimal cranking speed and sometimes blowing the fuse. This mod fixes that, but the circuit breaker approach does not. That's why this is a better fix.

 

[Sunrise Acres]

I see another note about a TC33 not starting. If you see the PTO light illuminated on the right side of the dash, be sure to check the connections under the left side of the tractor. When you brush cut or go over small trees you may pull the connectors apart or even ripp the wires. It would be nice if NH would add a guard over them. They should realize we use these small tractors pretty hard.

 

[Sunrise Acres]

Just another note on the Relay fix. Mine has worked very well since adding the Relay. I did have to replace the key switch as well. The tractor's electrical system will handle the low voltage for a while before failing completly. Take the time to pull the key switch out and check the terminals for discoloration. Its pretty easy. If a new Holland dealer has parts on hand its pretty sure sometime in the future you will need that part. They don't stock parts they won't sell. A parts house guy told me once, before you buy a used car come and ask me what parts I carry for that model! It gives some insite as to potential problems, big or small.:thumbsup:

 

[doall]

It really seems like NH would do the wiring upgrade on their dime.

 

[newt615]

did this mod in august and started everytime since, no more sitting there wondering when it was going to crankover! Thanks much, alot of info on this forum, NH engineers should read it and they would build the perfect tractor!

 

[djradz]

Just another note on the Relay fix. Mine has worked very well since adding the Relay. I did have to replace the key switch as well. The tractor's electrical system will handle the low voltage for a while before failing completly. :

I would think that would be the case. That is why this relay addition sounds like somewhat of a bandaid. The relay, just like the starter solenoid may eventually not engage for the same reasons. Could be that if the key switch was replaced from the beginning, the relay might not have even been necessary. Electrically speaking, a relay and solenoid are equivalent. In this case, the solenoid probably draws more current, so the resulting low voltage has an effect sooner, but as you note, can have just the same problems over time.

 

[SteveInMD]

djradz - the reason the modification is an improvement over the original design is it allows you to send power to the solenoid via only one switch (the added relay), rather than a large number of switches in series (the safety interlock switches). Moreover it takes much less voltage and current to close a relay than the starter solenoid. It turns out that many machines with lots of safety switches are in fact designed this way to begin with. It's how these tractors should have been built.

 

[unknownhinson]

if you believe it's your glow plugs causing the problem couldn't you just pull the glow plug relay out and eliminate them from the system?

I will try it. I will also try wiggling some wires around.

sherpa

Mine is a 2004 also and did this same (well similar) thing today for the first time after 6 or 7 years of trouble free operation, I started it up in the barn and ran down the road for about 5 minutes box blading, I had a stick stuck on the front end loader bucket and accidentally stalled the machine by backing up with the bucket down and too high of a gear, that's when the engine would not turn over and just a slight buzzing squealing sound from around the key switch area. But...when I started the tractor by pulling it, I noticed the glow plug light stayed on the whole ride back to the house (5 minutes) and it definitely dimmed when the rpm's dropped. I'm guess g my glow plug timer is bad and killed the battery in 5 minutes?