tc35d #2 fuse blows intermittently

[tmain]

I had the same problem with my 35... look for a post "tc35 blowing 7.5A Rabbit / Turtle fuse, around 8/18/2009 jinmans advice fixed my problem... If I recall it was the leads going to the rabbit/turtle solenoid. I still use a 7.5A fuse and it hasn't blown since.

 

[tobitobi]

Hate to say it, but---

Since the last post, blew the #4 fuse twice (total of 3 times). In over 10 years, it never blew before-- but has since I put in a 10a cb/fuse in #2 slot.

The last time the #4 blew, I had been working with the tractor for about an hour, then all of a sudden, lights out.

I've now put in a 10a fuse (it took a 7.5a stock) to see if it ever blows and if it does, guess I'll be getting another 10a cb for the #4 slot.

Anyone else have this happen??

 

[jinman]

I think your #4 fuse blowing is just incidental with the #2 problem. My guess is that you have a light circuit drawing too much current, maybe the switch. When you turn on lights, the current from fuse 4 goes through the light switch and energizes the relay coil of the main headlights, but does not supply power to the headlights. That power comes from fuse 7. Fuse #4 supplies power to your yellow marker lights on your fenders, but not the flashing lights. The flashing lights are powered by fuse 3 as also is the rear worklight if that option is installed. Fuse #4 supplies the dash lighting and the indicators like PTO ON, Parking Brake ON, Oil Pressure Warning, glow plug ON lamp, and power for the temperature, fuel, and PTO 540/600 lights. If I were looking for a problem, I think I'd check the light switch for a short and also the yellow indicator lights on the fenders. Everything else would seem to be a very tiny current draw compared to those two functions. You could probably get away with replacing the fuse with a 10 amp breaker, but if he problem does turn out to be in the dash, it could cause a localized overheat problem. I just don't see how any of the dash lights could cause that much of a problem with the fuse though unless there is a short to ground inside the dash connector.

 

[Earthloc]

This problem is similar and I am out of things to try.

I am new to this forum. I have a 2002 New Holland TC35D.
For some time it has been acting up. It would make a clicking noise while attempting to start it. I would fool around with the PTO lever and it would start after a few hours. I bypassed the switch and it worked fine for a year or so. Now it has started it again. It will not light up at all. I have bypassed all the safety switches, no help. I have check the ground circuit, it appears good. I have changed out/rotated all the relays, no help. I found the starter to be bad, I have a new one on order.

However, even with the ground wires connected, it will not light up. Now here's what's confusing me. I can remove the ignition switch, it checks good, then short across the power in wire to the fuse bus wire and it kills all voltage. I have disconnected the alternator, bypassed all safety switches, and it still does it. I pulled all the fuses and replaced them one at a time to isolate the circuit. Fuses 2, 4 and 5 each pull down the voltage to zero. 2 is is safety system, fuel and cruise, 4 is instrument panel and lights, and 5 is alternator excitation, cruise relay and hi, low, shift. I have the wiring diagrams and cannot find anything in common other than power in and ground.

Since the starter shorted out, I am thinking I may have multiply bad relays, which I don't know how to check other than replacing or rotating with like ones. I read somewhere in this or another forum about a resetting circuit, but don't thing this one has one, or at least I don't see it in the diagrams.

Sure could use some help here.

P.S. The fuses do not blow.

 

[Earthloc]

OOPS, accidentally posted twice

 

[jinman]

I would fool around with the PTO lever and it would start after a few hours. I bypassed the switch and it worked fine for a year or so. Now it has started it again. It will not light up at all. I have bypassed all the safety switches, no help. I have check the ground circuit, it appears good. I have changed out/rotated all the relays, no help. I found the starter to be bad, I have a new one on order.

You said this same exact sentence in two places in your post and I'm not sure what the "it" in "It will not light up at all." is. Is that "it" the PTO light? Is it the glowplug lamp? All lights? You've made so many bypasses and jumpered around so many switches that it would seem the best procedure at this point would be to put everything back to normal and start over. It's going to be very hard to offer you suggestions or help without knowing exactly how you've changed things. I'll try, but my advice will be a SWAG at best.

BTW: Fuse #2 also powers the solenoid in your starter. It does not power the main starter motor, but it supplies the power to energize the solenoid.

 

[Earthloc]

What I mean is that I have no power to anything. I switch the ignition switch to run and there is nothing! In fact it drains the power as I previous mentioned.

The safety switches are no more than a switches that closes the circuits when in the right position. Normally you have to sit on the seat, PTO has to be off, gear shift has to be in neutral. That's it, all those actions close the switches. I fixed the seat day one nine years ago, PTO about a year ago. I checked the neutral switch and did a temp bypass, works fine, put it back. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with rest of the tractor powering up when you turn on the key.

I'm thinking that when the starter shorted out it back fed power to the system and fried some relays. What do you think? Now I have to figure out how to test them with out just buying new ones. Your thoughts please.

 

[jinman]

Your symptoms are pointing to a bad (loose or dirty) connection. I don't know where you are monitoring the 12 vdc, but put a meter on the big terminal on the starter and monitor voltage there while you put in the fuses that kill all power. If it drops to zero there, you have a problem with the battery terminals being dirty, a bad connection where the battery ground wire hooks to the frame, or maybe an internal cable problem. The starter terminal is your first direct connection that does not go through any kind of fuse or relay. That's a starting point. From the starter, all the rest of the power to the tractor goes through the 40 amp main fuse above the starter. The output lead from that fuse is the next place to check the voltage when you plug in the fuse(s). If you have power there, turn off the key switch and move your voltmeter to where you are measuring the voltage previously an saw it drop out. While monitoring there, turn on your headlight switch. The headlights and flashers do no go through the ignition switch. If you turn them on and the power goes to zero, then you have a problem somewhere in the connections between your main fuse and the ignition switch.

As you can see, I'm starting at the source (battery) and working my way along the circuits in a very methodical way to find where the voltage is dropping. I can tell you that there is a bad connection, because if you put in a fuse that had a dead short to ground, it would either burn out the fuse or burn up wires. Voltage doesn't just drop to zero due to load unless there is a contact problem. Also nothing but the key switch supplies power to the rest of the fuses you listed. It is not possible for a relay to open that circuit or cause voltage to drop. If you have good power to the switch and no power after the switch, then the switch is bad. You have a 40 amp fuse feeding power. That's enough to fry most wires and relays without dropping below 12 vdc. Now, if your glow plug timer and relay are messed up, you could see constant glow plug power, but that will NOT kill the lights and all other power. I've starter my tractor many times while the glow plugs are on and everything works fine.

Okay, that's enough to check for one post. I'll post more, but please do these checks first and let us know what you find.:thumbsup:

 

[wrenchguy]

What I mean is that I have no power to anything. I switch the ignition switch to run and there is nothing!

Have you checked the main 40A fuse?

In addition to checking the main fuse and since you're in the same vicinity,check the connection from the positive battery cable to the main wiring harness. It could have become unplugged or damaged in some way. That will kill all power to everything.

 

[jinman]

I need to make a correction to my earlier post. The emergency flasher and turn signal works without the key switch on, but the headlights DO NOT. Sorry about the bad info. The key has to be on for headlights.