tc40 wont start

[DocHeb]

Here are the manual/specs for the fuel solenoid. The solenoid unscrews from the injection pump so you can take it off and measure the movement of the plunger.

 

[jinman]

Stonecomm, these guys are leading you in the right direction. I don't check in for awhile and they just pick up without me. Heck! I don't even feel needed anymore.

Normally, I can feel my solenoid or hear it energize. It has a knurled body so you can easily unscrew it, but you might have to convince it to start with a gentle grip using pliers. When you take it out, remember the body is no longer grounded, so you will have to attach the body to ground before applying 12 vdc to the spade connector. I'll warn you that I had a solenoid that was internally shorted and it smoked badly when I hooked it to a 12 vdc battery. The safest way to check it is to plug it back into the spade connector after you remove it and then touch ground with the body or use a jumper to provide ground. If the plunger moves, you are good to go.

Also, normally if the solenoid is shorted, it will cause fuse #2 to blow. You can spot fuse #2 blown by seeing the PTO light illuminated on the instrument panel when the PTO lever is OFF. However, if the solenoid winding is open, you would get the symptoms you described and no blown fuse.

EDIT: Oh yes, you may notice that the fuel solenoid pulls the plunger in when it is energized. That could lead you to assume that you could just hit the key and start the tractor with the solenoid removed. That would be correct, but how will you shut off the engine? You'd have to poke something into hole where you removed the solenoid to shut off the injector pump. I never had the guts to try that, so you'd be the "test pilot" on this one.

 

[Ford850]

Since you had starting issues for some time, have you checked your battery for a full charge? Maybe it isn't giving you the needed crank speed.

 

[BBJ]

Yes it has been running recently but has started hard.I have plenty of fuel and the filter looks good and has fuel in the bowl.although i am will change the filter for it is a new tractor to me.the fuel solenoid has power bur i dont feel or hear anything while trying to start.Another thing I have on order is ignition switch I think this one is ok but i did notice that when it does start that i manually move it back a bit to disengage the starter.I have recently changed the oil and hydraulic fluid along with the three filters but the starter was out at the time. i know right now it is a bit short on hydro fluid for i didnt want to over fill knowing the filters where empty but i dont think there is a safety switch for that plus the fluid registers on the dip stick.

I am not a diesel mechanic, but there seems to be too much going on here. You changed all the fluids and filters while the starter was out, so I would guess it hasn't run since putting it all back together.

You also mention that you may have ignition switch problems. Why would the solenoid go bad now?

I still believe in "Keep it simple" first. If the tractor was running before you took it apart, it should still work. Maybe DocHeb was on to something when he said to bleed the fuel lines. I would try that first before taking everything apart.

Also, just a thought: since you changed the oil and filter, will it do any damage cranking it over while the filter is empty, since it hasn't been run yet?

Please keep us updated as to what worked, so we can all learn from your problem! Thanks.

 

[stonecomm]

So the fuel shutoff solenoid is working great.Measurements from spec sheet and a test out of tractor.Fuel is on and can see in bowl the battery is cranking the motor over at a good rate.I think i read a thread from Jinman that the fuel lines shouldn't need to be bled.But without a manual I havent found the bleeder valve yet it is defianately worth a shot HELP!! The other thing I noticed and not sure if it should happen the glow plug light goes out by timer but when ignition goes to start position the glow plug light is flickkering on.The Napa ignition switch is waiting at the shop for me to pick up. It did start once after changing oil but i didnt let it run that long cause i needed to check oil level

 

[DocHeb]

Bleeding the lines.

Have you checked the Seat Safety Switch?

Are you sure the valve at the top of the fuel filter is open? - there are three positions for the lever.

The glow plugs have nothing to do with start/non-start (if you are in the northern hemisphere somewhere south of the Artic circle.)

 

[BBJ]

So the fuel shutoff solenoid is working great.Measurements from spec sheet and a test out of tractor.Fuel is on and can see in bowl the battery is cranking the motor over at a good rate.I think i read a thread from Jinman that the fuel lines shouldn't need to be bled.But without a manual I havent found the bleeder valve yet it is defianately worth a shot HELP!! The other thing I noticed and not sure if it should happen the glow plug light goes out by timer but when ignition goes to start position the glow plug light is flickkering on.The Napa ignition switch is waiting at the shop for me to pick up. It did start once after changing oil but i didnt let it run that long cause i needed to check oil level

The operators manual does say there is an auto-bleed system that should bleed the system while cranking, but there are 5 reasons (filter replacement is one of them) that require manual bleeding of the system. DocHeb was kind enough to post the instructions. Since you already checked the seat safety switch, try bleeding it. Good Luck! (and let us know if it works!)

P.S.: While you don't need glow plugs to start, the flickering does concern me. If bleeding doesn't work, possible the switch is bad?

 

[jinman]

So the fuel shutoff solenoid is working great.Measurements from spec sheet and a test out of tractor.

Sorry that I haven't checked in that much, but I'm getting ready for a trip and have lots of things keeping me from the computer.

You said you checked the solenoid out of the tractor. The only way you can be sure it is working properly is to connect it to the spade connector on the tractor, ground its body, and turn on the key. That will tell you for sure if it is operating properly and all the tractor's interlocks are functioning. If it works and the engine turns over, then you have a fuel delivery problem and need to do the fuel bleeding as DocHeb posted.

I just have a hard problem thinking this is a fuel delivery problem because you just changed the two hydraulic filters and the engine oil filter without changing the fuel filter. I can't see anything that would have happened to allow air into the fuel system.

Basically, if the engine turns over and the fuel cutoff solenoid is energized due to all the safety switches working properly, your tractor should at least try to start even if the glowplugs aren't working properly. It really should be as simple as that.

 

[BBJ]

Any luck?

 

[stonecomm]

its running! while i was trying to start it from the ground and after the motor had turned over a bit i heard a noise coming from the fuel pump (guessing it is the pump hose in from filter hose out to injector pump and located roughly below ignition switch) replaced the hose to injector pump and haven't heard the noise since.then bled the lines

will air getting introduced to the fuel line cause problems:laughing:the cause of learning the electrical system:drool:

So i spent most of sunday trying to figure out why the replacement ignition wasnt turning the motor over had power every where i should when i should except for out of the neutral start relay still not sure why.but put the old switch back in and it fired right up

the Ks6600 ignition switch there is just something about it that mine doesnt like.I had the 12awg on the acc and tried swapping the batt and ignition and the white on the st.Going to spend the extra 35$ and put one in from NH

Thanks for all your help and time