TC40D - overfull crankcase

[Flatheadyoungin]

thanks, i was standing in line but got on the wrong bus!

well, i guess that puts mine in the running

tc 35 is 3 cylinder; tc 40 and up are 4 cylinder

 

[jinman]

well, i guess that puts mine in the running

Yeah, the hydraulic pump is the same for all engines. That's where the failure would show up. Being aware that this could happen is probably the best defense. i.e., If you see signs of an overfilled crankcase check the pump.

 

[JC-jetro]

can you elaborate a bit

Jc,

yep, what Jim said. pump shaft seal replacement is not a difficult task.

JC,

 

[dubldee]

Drained the crankcase to the tune of 8+quarts of fluid.
No water, and no diesel smell whatsoever, so it must be hydraulic.

NH does not show a separate seal for the shaft, only a "seal kit", to the tune of around $140. The same part number at Messicks is around $132 before shipping. I sure liked the sounds of "around $45" a lot better.

How difficult is it to get to the hydraulic pump? Does the FEL bracket have to come off? I hate to sound stupid, but I've never been into one. I'm assuming it's somewhere around the hydraulic manifold. I notice the repair manual for the hydraulics tacks on another $100 or so (yippee!).

Also, I'm assuming a crankcase flush would be in order. Should I just run some cheap oil in it for a little while and then drain and refill, or is something more elaborate called for?

Appreciate all the help!

 

[JC-jetro]

Drained the crankcase to the tune of 8+quarts of fluid.
No water, and no diesel smell whatsoever, so it must be hydraulic.

NH does not show a separate seal for the shaft, only a "seal kit", to the tune of around $140. The same part number at Messicks is around $132 before shipping. I sure liked the sounds of "around $45" a lot better.

How difficult is it to get to the hydraulic pump? Does the FEL bracket have to come off? I hate to sound stupid, but I've never been into one. I'm assuming it's somewhere around the hydraulic manifold. I notice the repair manual for the hydraulics tacks on another $100 or so (yippee!).

Also, I'm assuming a crankcase flush would be in order. Should I just run some cheap oil in it for a little while and then drain and refill, or is something more elaborate called for?

Appreciate all the help!

for my 1700 the seal kit was $45 and shaft seal was a seperate I think $12. Althugh I have replaced the all the seal in there with the new kit my problem for sure was the shaft seal. Replacing the shaft seal only is much easier but the pump need to be taken off. take a look at the thread I started when I was working on mine. Disregard the first par of the thread and go directly to the pump overhaul at the end of the first page. all the pumps are made of the 3 section back plate, middle section and the front plate. if you just remove the front plate where shaft come out you don't need to disturb anything where all the internal seal and bushings are. Shaft seal is secured by a snap ring, the front gear is keyed in to the shaft. out the gear in a vice sandwiched with couple of scrap 1/2 board and the the front nut off. On mine the gear came off without use of a puller. Not a very difficult job. I reckon your problem is the shaft seal only and nut the pump inner seals as your pump is able to pump. shaft seal is the only place pump can leak in to crank case.


JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html

 

[jinman]

Here is a photo of the main hydraulic pump attached to the engine boss on the right side of the engine. The big pump on the left in the photo is the main pump and the small pump on the right is the power steering pump. You can get to both without removing the loader, but it would be easier with the loader removed.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

that's good info, thanks!

i thought the pump might be internal like some of the older tractors....

Here is a photo of the main hydraulic pump attached to the engine boss on the right side of the engine. The big pump on the left in the photo is the main pump and the small pump on the right is the power steering pump. You can get to both without removing the loader, but it would be easier with the loader removed.

 

[dubldee]

Situation update:
The pump is removable without taking off the FEL bracket (mine is a Rhino), but there's a few changes: (1) the suction line had to be completely removed, as there is not enough space to rotate the suction line out of the way per the service manual, (2) the hi-pressure line had to be removed, as I had to back the pump up an inch or two to get at one of the bolts (FEL bracket again) and (3) regardless of what the service manual says, I could not back the pump out far enough to release the two studs on the outboard side of the pump - ended up screwing the studs out of their sockets.

The shaft seal has a circular spring on the back side that tensions the seal around the shaft - mine had come off and was idling on the shaft itself.
For a mere $143, NH graciously gives you the shaft seal, a brand new snap ring, and the four small internal seals for the pumps. They have changed the engineering on the "backup" seals to include nylon backers and the seals are more flexible than the originals.

The forward bolts on the inboard side of the pump are bears to get at - I finally pulled the fan and shroud to improve access - time well spent. Love the way service manuals say "remove bolts a and b" without mentioning your grandchildren will be conceived and born before you get those buggers out.

Anyway, I pulled the oil filter, bolted on new, and refilled the crankcase and fired her up - surprise! everything works. Now it's just a matter of time and monitoring the dipstick.

Appreciate the help and the pics - was jealous of that old ford when i compared parts prices and accessibility!

I'll post back to this thread with final results.

 

[jinman]

I'll post back to this thread with final results.

Sounds like you've been pretty busy. I'm watching your post with special interest since my tractor has over 1300 hours. I've already told my wife what to look for if she is operating the tractor and sees oil dripping.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

thanks for the update..

yeah, i like how they say, "use special service tool A to remove bolts 1 and 2....." what is the tool and, by-the-way, you can't reach them!

good thread

Situation update:
The pump is removable without taking off the FEL bracket (mine is a Rhino), but there's a few changes: (1) the suction line had to be completely removed, as there is not enough space to rotate the suction line out of the way per the service manual, (2) the hi-pressure line had to be removed, as I had to back the pump up an inch or two to get at one of the bolts (FEL bracket again) and (3) regardless of what the service manual says, I could not back the pump out far enough to release the two studs on the outboard side of the pump - ended up screwing the studs out of their sockets.

The shaft seal has a circular spring on the back side that tensions the seal around the shaft - mine had come off and was idling on the shaft itself.
For a mere $143, NH graciously gives you the shaft seal, a brand new snap ring, and the four small internal seals for the pumps. They have changed the engineering on the "backup" seals to include nylon backers and the seals are more flexible than the originals.

The forward bolts on the inboard side of the pump are bears to get at - I finally pulled the fan and shroud to improve access - time well spent. Love the way service manuals say "remove bolts a and b" without mentioning your grandchildren will be conceived and born before you get those buggers out.

Anyway, I pulled the oil filter, bolted on new, and refilled the crankcase and fired her up - surprise! everything works. Now it's just a matter of time and monitoring the dipstick.

Appreciate the help and the pics - was jealous of that old ford when i compared parts prices and accessibility!

I'll post back to this thread with final results.