TC40DA PTO operation

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> The old shaft hasn't been off in 30 years, </font>

Now there's a rotary cutter that's held up until it was paid for.

 

[djradz]

Barry, not necessarily. You should be able to replace the end of the u-joint and female spline piece (yoke) of the brush hog that attaches to the tractor. Go to a good farm equipment supply and they should be able to help you out. You're talking about something on the order of $25-$50 versus several hundred for the entire shaft and ends. You'll want to replace the u-joint needle bearings at the same time, and in fact it's pretty hard not to as they all FALL OUT when you remove the c-clips and pull the u-joint apart. If you're not sure how to do this or don't want to tackle it, just take that end of the shaft in and have them put the new yoke on.

 

[lhfarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Barry, not necessarily. You should be able to replace the end of the u-joint and female spline piece (yoke) of the brush hog that attaches to the tractor. Go to a good farm equipment supply and they should be able to help you out. You're talking about something on the order of $25-$50 versus several hundred for the entire shaft and ends. You'll want to replace the u-joint needle bearings at the same time, and in fact it's pretty hard not to as they all FALL OUT when you remove the c-clips and pull the u-joint apart. If you're not sure how to do this or don't want to tackle it, just take that end of the shaft in and have them put the new yoke on. )</font>
Lacking a good farm store, I took the tractor-end shaft to TSC on Saturday. We couldn't match the yoke. Everything they had was too narrow or U-joint hole too large. They suggested cutting the shaft and welding a whole new yoke on the tractor end. I came home resigned to changing out the entire shaft. But I can't get it off the mower! So I've gone back to trying to find an adaptor.
If I can't find one, I may make one out of the the pin style 1 3/8 F to 1 1/8 M welded to a short snap yoke. I'll send pictures.

 

[Soundguy]

Lots of thos mowers have a gearbox with a smooth input shaft, and then are held on with a shear bolt, and a snap ring or Circlip / Eclip. What's yours looklike?

A 1 3/8 fem to 1 1/8 male ORC is, or was, the last time i looked available from SPEECO.. I've seent hem at tractor supply.. for using a modern style pto to power an older style implement.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[lhfarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Lots of thos mowers have a gearbox with a smooth input shaft, and then are held on with a shear bolt, and a snap ring or Circlip / Eclip. What's yours looklike?

A 1 3/8 fem to 1 1/8 male ORC is, or was, the last time i looked available from SPEECO.. I've seent hem at tractor supply.. for using a modern style pto to power an older style implement.. etc.

Soundguy )</font>
Hmmm...I removed the shearbolt and the shaft appears to be smooth. But didn't look for a snap ring. I'll take a look.
I was going to write and ask if you had a source. Just looked at the Speeco site and see a 1 3/8 extender with a quick release, but no reducer. Maybe I should give them a call.

Thanks,

 

[chatcher]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My new TC35DA allows limited rotation of the PTO shaft to attach implements.)</font>

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Chuck, unless NH has changed the design, the Repair Manual states that the rear PTO shaft cannot be turned when it is disengaged on non-mid PTO equiped tractors. If you have the mid-PTO option, you can disengage the rear PTO and it will turn. Does your tractor have the mid-PTO?

If he doesn't have the mid-PTO, he will have to turn the implement unless NH has made a recent change in their design and I haven't heard of it. )</font>

Sounds like a design change. My DA repair manual says "With the tractor shut off, the rear PTO output shaft, 10, can be rotated slightly, to aid in connection to implement drive shaft, but cannot be rotated in a complete revolution." That's the way mine works, and I do not have the mid PTO option.

 

[PineRidge]

Chuck that has to be a handy feature.

If I haven't used but the rear finish mower then the spines on the PTO will always line up simply because the PTO brake keeps it in place until the next hookup. But if I use another implement meantime like the tiller and then go back to the RFM I find it necessary to remove the belt cover on the RFM to aid in alignment of the splines.

It would be a lot easier your way but our PTO locks down tight.

 

[djradz]

The shearbolt on my hog has been bent and I think the only way it will ever come out now is to drill it out.

Barry, how about replacing just the tractor end of the shaft. Assuming it's a square shaft, you might be able to find a match. Welding a new end on would also work, but I'd be a little concerned about getting it perfectly centered and balanced. If it's not done just right, you could end up with quite a bit of vibration. I think I'd check other sources for a yoke. TSC has a decent selection, better than most in fact, but they may just not stock the right piece.

 

[djradz]

Mike, I long ago discarded the cover on my RM306, just for that reason. I agree it's not quite as safe, but I NEVER get anywhere near the mower when it's turning anyway. The flywheel is still pretty well shielded I figure as it's set back in the housing and behind all those connecting links anyway. Not sure if my 40D would even let me get off the tractor, even with the brakes on and it in N, as it has all those safety interlocks tied to the seat. You can't see it in the attached pic, but it's gone, plus I also removed the belt shield because it usually just got filled with grass and leaves and made it difficult to keep the deck clean.

 

[Soundguy]

I had a shear bolt once that partially sheared. You could see the drformation as the head was drawn down on one side with a small .025 gap on the other. i tried to drive it out.. no good.. just ended up accidentally popping the head off. I ended up just mowing with it till it finally sheared one day, and then it was nothing to drive the seperate slugs out and add a new bolt.

If you had to get it out NOW.. I guess drilling is an option.. but be carefull not to get into the pump shaft or the yoke.. If I had to sacrifice some metal.. do it on the yoke.

Soundguy