djradz
Veteran Member
Yep, it's been that way for several years now, so I think I'll just leave it alone until it fails.
TC40DA PTO operation
- Thread starter lhfarm
- Start date
- Views: 6707
PineRidge
Super Member
<font color="blue"> Not sure if my 40D would even let me get off the tractor, even with the brakes on and it in N, as it has all those safety interlocks tied to the seat. </font>
Don't know about yours but I can tell you that my 40D doesn't shut down if the PTO is engaged, the brake is set, and the range selector is in neutral. I never get near the mower for any reason if it's running though as that's a sure accident looking for a place to happen.
Don't know about yours but I can tell you that my 40D doesn't shut down if the PTO is engaged, the brake is set, and the range selector is in neutral. I never get near the mower for any reason if it's running though as that's a sure accident looking for a place to happen.
djradz
Veteran Member
PineRidge
Super Member
What is the idea of that set of adjustable chains on the Woods finish mower? I could see your possibly needing them if your lower links could not be locked into place but your NH can, so isn't it overkill?
djradz
Veteran Member
Mike, I'll try to summarize, but you'd do better to search for "check chains" posts.
What the chains do is completely eliminate the raising and lowering of the front of the deck caused by the stiff lower 3pt arms. This happens to some degree on relatively flat land and extremely a lot on anything less than flat. If you mow (or brush hog) with the front of your deck supported by the arms (ie not front caster wheels), you would not believe the difference. By using the chains, you now have the deck supported by the huge circumference of the rear tractor wheels. You just would not believe how nice this is until you try it. Also, with this setup, you just drop your 3pt control lever to the lowest position, every time, and you're assured that the deck returns to exactly the same position. Some folks just use the chains, but I wanted more adjustment, so I added the turnbuckles to mine. Some people may use this setup if they have leaky hydraulics, but mine are just fine. My Woods deck came with the setup, but I've modified it just slightly - still use the same brackets at the tractor, but installed eye-bolts at the deck, added snap clips at the tractor end of the chain, and added the turnbuckles. I like this setup so much, that I think if I were to ever buy a new deck that came with front casters, I'd remove them and use the chains instead. I've installed this on two other brush hogs and many other folks on TBN have used this on their equpment.
What the chains do is completely eliminate the raising and lowering of the front of the deck caused by the stiff lower 3pt arms. This happens to some degree on relatively flat land and extremely a lot on anything less than flat. If you mow (or brush hog) with the front of your deck supported by the arms (ie not front caster wheels), you would not believe the difference. By using the chains, you now have the deck supported by the huge circumference of the rear tractor wheels. You just would not believe how nice this is until you try it. Also, with this setup, you just drop your 3pt control lever to the lowest position, every time, and you're assured that the deck returns to exactly the same position. Some folks just use the chains, but I wanted more adjustment, so I added the turnbuckles to mine. Some people may use this setup if they have leaky hydraulics, but mine are just fine. My Woods deck came with the setup, but I've modified it just slightly - still use the same brackets at the tractor, but installed eye-bolts at the deck, added snap clips at the tractor end of the chain, and added the turnbuckles. I like this setup so much, that I think if I were to ever buy a new deck that came with front casters, I'd remove them and use the chains instead. I've installed this on two other brush hogs and many other folks on TBN have used this on their equpment.
PineRidge
Super Member
Thanks for the "heads up". Guess I haven't been following the check chain threads but I see that I have some homework reading to do.
OP
lhfarm
Veteran Member
Here is the adaptor I had made. I had a quick release yoke that was too small (don't actually know where it came from). I disassembled the release (simple snap ring holds things in place). I took the bare yoke, the original adaptor and a short 1 3/8" OD x 1 1/8 " ID spline collar to my welder. They cut the ears off the yoke, then used the spline collar to align the two pieces. They tacked the pieces, then removed the collar and finished welding. It is one solid piece now, perfectly aligned.
I reassembled the quick connect and tested it on the tractor. I'll do a test mow tomorrow is it isn't raining. It is heavy and I am a little worried that it might not be perfectly balanced. Don't want to strain the PTO. Anyone have an idea for checking if it is balanced or should I even be worried about it?
I reassembled the quick connect and tested it on the tractor. I'll do a test mow tomorrow is it isn't raining. It is heavy and I am a little worried that it might not be perfectly balanced. Don't want to strain the PTO. Anyone have an idea for checking if it is balanced or should I even be worried about it?
