TC45DA Ignition Switch

[AnneReynolds]

I had the same problem with my 03 TC40D I think my switch melted at around 1000Hrs. I replaced mine with a Napa heavy duty switch as well, not one problem since and I now have around 1600Hrs. I think it your right about the starting issues being related to the switch, before I realized it was the switch I thought I might have starter problems, fuel solenoid problems or who knows. It was so erratic I couldn't track the problem because it kept changing. I think the switch might have issues with a lot of night time use ie. lights. My tractor got a lot of after work and late in the evening on weekends use for a while and lights are really the only thing that should draw enough continuous power to cause the switch to melt. You might have had such high failure rate because the wiring connections probably overheated the first time and then you didn't have great electrical flow after which caused more heat with less demand.:confused2:

We just actually replaced the fuel stop solenoid $135. In the process, my husband broke an internally relieved bolt (banjo bolt). That and the $6 washers were nearly $30 more. We decided to lightly sand all the connections prongs for every relay and fuse since we have been plagued with electrical issues from day one. We already have hard-wired all safetyl switch features in the past. We actually replaced the ignition switch once before. (and discovered that it had been badly assembled at the factory -- one prong had been bent and stuffed in poorly). When we replaced the switch the first time, we thought our troubles were over. Now, after he put the solenoid and new bolt in, I was messing with the switch and finally convince him the switch was "tricky" and bad. We found this thread and bought the Napa universal ignition switch. We will prime it up and maybe our woes will be done with. I appreciate your post and I will let the original author know I appreciate his photos and explanations as well. What would I do without the internet? --Anne

 

[AnneReynolds]

Update on Ignition Switch

The switch finally got bad enough to need to change it. It was causing the starter solenoid to just click or not work at all and the tractor would not stay running unless you got the key just right. I did not like the idea of cutting the harness but was tired of replacing swithces because of broken tumblers or melted parts in the NH plastic switch. So I purchased a NAPA KS6180 ($23) Ignition switch and then crimped, soldered, shrank wrapped and taped all splices and connections. See attached pictures.

Jackfr -- THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. We just actually replaced the fuel stop solenoid $135 (now not sure it was bad). In the process, my husband broke an internally relieved bolt (banjo bolt). That and the $6 washers were nearly $30 more. We decided to lightly sand all the connections prongs for every relay and fuse since we have been plagued with electrical issues from day one. We already have hard-wired all safetyl switch features in the past. We actually replaced the ignition switch once before. (and discovered that it had been badly assembled at the factory -- one prong had been bent and stuffed in poorly). When we replaced the switch the first time, we thought our troubles were over. Now, after he put the solenoid and new bolt in, I was messing with the switch and finally convince him the switch was "tricky" and bad. We found this thread and bought the Napa universal ignition switch. We will prime it up and maybe our woes will be done with. I appreciate your post, photos and explanations. What would I do without the internet? --Anne

 

[wn74]

Thank you for this! I am going to try it for my TC35

 

[kji]

Well here I am at 2760 hrs and that $86 plastic ignition switch is starting to act up again. This will be the forth one. I've purchased a metal/brass after market one from NAPA and am going to try and adapt it. I'll let you know how I make out.

Same problem with my tc45 with 2400 hrs