TD40D SS...Detaching 17LA FEL with tooth bar

[GOBLUE]

Just installed tooth bar on our new TC40D SS FEL. Anyone have experience with detaching the loader (NH17LA) on a flat concrete floor? The standard procedure shown to us by our dealer and in the manual instructs to turn the bucket down in the dump position to provide sufficient (and I suspect safe) clearance to fold down the loader kick stand. We have'nt tried this before with the tooth bar and have some concerns about doing this on the concrete floor of the barn as far as slippage or possible floor damage. Thanks!

 

[Golfgar4]

Could you stack up some 2 X 4's or 2 X 6's between the teeth to keep the toothbar teeth from coming in contact with the floor?

 

[jinman]

I have removed my loader several times, and although I do not have a tooth bar, you are correct in assuming the instructions on bucket position are just until you get the stand unhooked and set. I have found it works a little better to lift the bucket slightly so my stand will swing free and not hit my bumper as it rotates down between the wheels. Just let your bucket sit a few inches off the floor and you will be fine. There is no need to turn your teeth straight down into your garage floor. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[GOBLUE]

Thanks JINMAN and GOLFCAR4! On another note, when I detach the loader, how much "forward scoot" should I allow when I move the loader forward with the hydro's after the primary pins have been pulled when detaching the unit. The first time we detached the loader in the barn, we had the leading edge of the bucket resting against a wall before detachment which created push-back pressure on the tractor and, well, anyway... resulted in a bent / broke (OOOPS!) pin at the kick stand pivot. Obviously, the bucket must have enough clearance in front of it to slide forward as the arms extend away from the tractor. (If I had set the park brake as per the instructions, I might have had a new doorway in the barn.)

 

[jinman]

4" to 6" should be plenty because you have the bucket flat (in the indent on the position rod) and push down to release pressure on the top pins while you uninstall them. Then, you simply roll the bucket up and that pulls your arms up and out of the socket. Back up about 1' and disconnect your quick-disconnects and you are done. I usually tie my hoses up on the loader arms with an elastic bungi after I install the caps. That's all there is to it. If this is not clear, I think I have a picture of my loader removed so you can see what I mean. I could attach it this weekend if you need it.

 

[GOBLUE]

Thanks again jinman! Your clear instructions and use of visuals (from other posts) are a real credit to the competancies that you obviously use in your profession. Maybe NH could pay you as online support / advocate in exchange for some of the challenges you've worked through?

We'll practice more and again, Thank You!

 

[RoyJackson]

Wow, Brian..I got a hat just like that!!!

 

[GOBLUE]

"Wow, Brian..I got a hat just like that!!! "

It's a tad cheaper and more convenient than the optional canopy. Besides, I not a member of the hair club for men under that straw weave.

 

[TCowner]

Jim, your offer to post some pictures of the 17A loader removal procedure would be helpful. I thought I would try to detach mine late on Sunday. This is my first non-John Deere loader so I'm a little nervous. I've got the manual but some "real world" pictures often times show more than the drawings in the operators manual.

 

[Bird]

Brian, the only place I ever took my FEL off my tractor was on the concrete floor in my shop building. And I simply had a scrap of quarter inch plywood about 8" wide and longer than the bucket was wide that I put the edge of the bucket on, both before and after installing a toothbar, to avoid scratching the concrete.