teaching myself to glue metal together

[ArlyA]

What are you guys on about, I'm not getting it?

Seem that they are referring to welding on the flat. That is the easiest way to be doing it.

 

[GeneV]

Seem that they are referring to welding on the flat. That is the easiest way to be doing it.

Ahh well, one needs to be able to walk before he can run, and I'm in the crawling stage still.

 

[GeneV]

Gene,

Did not know that the welder is only a dedicated FCAW.

Are you using the recommended .035 Lincoln NR-211-MP (Innershield Cored Wire)?

And is the wire drive roller stenciled wire diameter size visible on the top side (when installed) matching the wire diameter you are using?

It is strange that the information on the inside of the top lid and online Operator's Manual says 1/8" thick (11 gauge) maximum for product #12721 and Century's website information says 1/4" maximum for product #K3493-1?

Just a thought, you could have someone help you fine tune the wire speed while you are welding by just speaking to them during this process.

Again Good Luck, and I have welded all of my working years and now my biggest challenge is seeing the weld puddle...

KC

Yup, all that with the wire and roller, it's all correct there. It is strange how they don't offer settings for over 1/8". I talked to Lincoln Electric today, gave them a call. Actually, I had a chat with an engineer who had something to do with producing this welder model, so that was kinda cool. He didn't have much to say about settings, mostly said I could use 1/8" settings and make multiple passes.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Obvious situation of not enough heat for penetration. Those beads are just laying on top. Those small machines are not designed to provide the heat it takes to melt that heavy a section to penetrate. Also you did not have a gap between the plates. That type work with a machine deigned for max of 1/8 material requires a gap at the root the same as the rod thickness plus a 30 degree bevel on both sides. I assume that is 1/4" plate. Try this; make just one V of two plates, weld same way you did that then put in a vice and bend it over, that will show you what your penetration is. A proper weld has full penetration from top to bottom plus a dime high at the surface. The old saying in the trades is the cover pass should be "a dime wide and a dime high". If you are serious about welding instead of gluing get a bigger machine. Start your learning with a stick rod machine. A used AC transformer AC machine are sold all over for +/- $100. I have 4 for sale right now due to upgrading. Get the root pass and solid build up down pat. MIG and TIG come a lot easier once you get the principles down such as puddle control and penetration.

Ron

 

[WranglerX]

Yup, all that with the wire and roller, it's all correct there. It is strange how they don't offer settings for over 1/8". I talked to Lincoln Electric today, gave them a call. Actually, I had a chat with an engineer who had something to do with producing this welder model, so that was kinda cool. He didn't have much to say about settings, mostly said I could use 1/8" settings and make multiple passes.

The don't offer setting over 1/8 inch as they can not reasonably guarantee proper weld (penetration) for materials any thicker for lack of heat machine can produce.... HEAT is expressed in "voltage" and amount of amperage the voltage can push through molecular bond to cause fusion.....

Dale

 

[GeneV]

Dale, I don't have a 220 outlet nearby, so the 120 v welder will be it for now. I got 20 amp outlets in my garage, so at least this machine gets all the juice it can use. If I get more serious about welding, then we'll see about running a 220 line out there for a more capable welding machine.

For now, I'm not too worried about it, I'm not going to be welding anything my life depends on. Also I talked to a some experienced welders including the dude from Lincoln Electric, they see no problem welding 1/4" plate with the fc90. I got some settings from one dude who's been using this welder on 1/4", I'll try that next. I wanna weld a craftsman snow plow from a garden tractor onto a ssqa plate, that's what I'm practicing for. And if a weld breaks on my plow, it's gonna be on my driveway, with the welder right there in the garage to weld it right back, no biggie.

 

[GeneV]

Obvious situation of not enough heat for penetration. Those beads are just laying on top. Those small machines are not designed to provide the heat it takes to melt that heavy a section to penetrate. Also you did not have a gap between the plates. That type work with a machine deigned for max of 1/8 material requires a gap at the root the same as the rod thickness plus a 30 degree bevel on both sides. I assume that is 1/4" plate. Try this; make just one V of two plates, weld same way you did that then put in a vice and bend it over, that will show you what your penetration is. A proper weld has full penetration from top to bottom plus a dime high at the surface. The old saying in the trades is the cover pass should be "a dime wide and a dime high". If you are serious about welding instead of gluing get a bigger machine. Start your learning with a stick rod machine. A used AC transformer AC machine are sold all over for +/- $100. I have 4 for sale right now due to upgrading. Get the root pass and solid build up down pat. MIG and TIG come a lot easier once you get the principles down such as puddle control and penetration.

Ron

Ron, so does slowing down the wire feed help that? I initially had both to max, but the weld bead looked better when I knocked down the wire speed but kept the volts up at max. What do you mean by root same as rod thickness? From what I've been reading, best outcome for thicker metal is to bevel it and preheat with a torch, so that's the plan for the plow.

I would like to learn stick welding, it looks like a real art! Maybe sometime, we'll see. What do you guys think about dual stick/tig machines? I've been reading a little about the everlast powerark 161sth, has good reviews.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Ron, so does slowing down the wire feed help that? I initially had both to max, but the weld bead looked better when I knocked down the wire speed but kept the volts up at max. What do you mean by root same as rod thickness? From what I've been reading, best outcome for thicker metal is to bevel it and preheat with a torch, so that's the plan for the plow.

I would like to learn stick welding, it looks like a real art! Maybe sometime, we'll see. What do you guys think about dual stick/tig machines? I've been reading a little about the everlast powerark 161sth, has good reviews.

Any stick machine will run TIG. You just have to reverse the polarity from stick welding otherwise it will melt the tungsten.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ron, so does slowing down the wire feed help that? I initially had both to max, but the weld bead looked better when I knocked down the wire speed but kept the volts up at max. What do you mean by root same as rod thickness? From what I've been reading, best outcome for thicker metal is to bevel it and preheat with a torch, so that's the plan for the plow.

I would like to learn stick welding, it looks like a real art! Maybe sometime, we'll see. What do you guys think about dual stick/tig machines? I've been reading a little about the everlast powerark 161sth, has good reviews.

Can't help you there. I have zero experience with those 120V machines, Tried it, junked it. Break down and put in at least a 30A 220V outlet. 50A is even better.

Ron

 

[GeneV]

Can't help you there. I have zero experience with those 120V machines, Tried it, junked it. Break down and put in at least a 30A 220V outlet. 50A is even better.

Ron

Maybe eventually.