Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket

   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #1  

rider7767

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
761
Location
Paris, TN
Tractor
TYM T264 with loader and implements
I cut pieces off of a good quality 3/8 chain and used as loops to weld on my bucket. I have been looking for teeth suitable for my small tractor, but I could not find any I liked. Today I found Post Hole cutter. They are small enough, and strong enough. I welded them on, and man they make a different digging. I think I am going to put 3 more on.




 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #2  
look good :thumbsup:
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #3  
I cut pieces off of a good quality 3/8 chain and used as loops to weld on my bucket. I have been looking for teeth suitable for my small tractor, but I could not find any I liked. Today I found Post Hole cutter. They are small enough, and strong enough. I welded them on, and man they make a different digging. I think I am going to put 3 more on.




Where did you find those Post Hole cutters? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #4  
Where did you find those Post Hole cutters? Inquiring minds want to know.

They look like TSC's.

Unrelated: I saw them in the store and thought they looked exactly like the ones for my Howse PHD, so I bought a set to have on hand. It turned out that they were slightly different, so I modified my auger to accept them. They have a much better design in the way that the auger dogs them, and I liked the idea of being able to buy replacements locally.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#5  
They look like TSC's.

Unrelated: I saw them in the store and thought they looked exactly like the ones for my Howse PHD, so I bought a set to have on hand. It turned out that they were slightly different, so I modified my auger to accept them. They have a much better design in the way that the auger dogs them, and I liked the idea of being able to buy replacements locally.

I got them at TSC.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I was looking here » Excavator Bucket Teeth | Ground Engaging Tools but not sure which ones fit or would fit the bucket, they seem reasonable on prices.
The problem I was looking at was the leverage the longer teeth would have. My little CK20S is strong, but I did not want to take it over its limits. Adding 6 inches of length could significantly reduce the cutting force when rolling the bucket back. My bucket teeth add about 2 1/2 inches of length to the bucket reducing the probable impact of longer ones, but adding sharp cutting points. I dug in clay and light rock last night for 2+ hours, and the teeth held up well.
CountyLine® Auger Cutting Edge - Tractor Supply Online Store
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Putting it to work.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #10  
The problem I was looking at was the leverage the longer teeth would have. My little CK20S is strong, but I did not want to take it over its limits. Adding 6 inches of length could significantly reduce the cutting force when rolling the bucket back. My bucket teeth add about 2 1/2 inches of length to the bucket reducing the probable impact of longer ones, but adding sharp cutting points. I dug in clay and light rock last night for 2+ hours, and the teeth held up well.
CountyLineョ Auger Cutting Edge - Tractor Supply Online Store
I don't see why the teeth would be to large for the CK20 at all, what you have found are very lightweight and could probably use some gussets on the top of them to keep from being torn off, I have seen the big boys rip a tooth or two before with the mounts they have, or should I say -- have ripped a couple off in rock before.
I actually thought about using some 1/2" plate I have and making some from it. Might have to visit the local scrap yard and see what is available.
 
Last edited:
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I don't see why the teeth would be to large for the CK20 at all, what you have found are very lightweight and could probably use some gussets on the top of them to keep from being torn off, I have seen the big boys rip a tooth or two before with the mounts they have, or should I say -- have ripped a couple off in rock before.
I actually thought about using some 1/2" plate I have and making some from it. Might have to visit the local scrap yard and see what is available.
I don't think it would be a problem to go bigger and stronger. I have use the teeth I weld on for about 4 hours now digging in clay and rock. So far so good. The Post Hole teeth(cutters) are made to take a beating on the cutting end. They are also only about $7.50 each. They are cheap and local(TSC). So if and when I break one, it is not that big of a deal. The way I set it up, the teeth are the weak link. I have noticed a reduction in bucket roll back power due to the increased length of the tip of the teeth from the bucket fulcrum point. It is not that much, but noticeable.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #12  
I have noticed a reduction in bucket roll back power due to the increased length of the tip of the teeth from the bucket fulcrum point. It is not that much, but noticeable.

That is because the teeth are to flat and wide, no shearing surface, I would suspect.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I don't think so. :scratchchin:The teeth are not as wide as any I seen on the ROMAC's website. I think it is the fact when you lengthen the bucket, the physics have changed. The further the load is away from the fulcrum, the harder it is to pick up. The reduction is not that big of a deal, but I notice it. I have been working the little tractor for many hours strait, so I notice small changes. I have picked up a big advantage using the tractor to push the bucket forward. The teeth cut very nicely.
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket #14  
I don't think so. :scratchchin:The teeth are not as wide as any I seen on the ROMAC's website. I think it is the fact when you lengthen the bucket, the physics have changed. The further the load is away from the fulcrum, the harder it is to pick up. The reduction is not that big of a deal, but I notice it. I have been working the little tractor for many hours strait, so I notice small changes. I have picked up a big advantage using the tractor to push the bucket forward. The teeth cut very nicely.
Okay if your theory was correct then pallet forks would never work. :)
I know for a fact my tractor was used to lift pallets of stone or at least raise one enough to move them, also I know that a heavy load is best carried low to the ground makes it easier to move and less prone to tip equipment over with weight shift.
All I know is bucket teeth make breaking the ground up so it can be dug up easier, thus making digging easier, never thought it would hinder the lifting or curling of the bucket other then it makes it easier to pierce the dirt and thus lifting more of it. Another way to look at it teeth are only a small area as opposed to the long flat bucket lip, less surface but pierces further.
But you could be right, I have been wrong before, don't believe me ask my wife. :)
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Okay if your theory was correct then pallet forks would never work. :)
I know for a fact my tractor was used to lift pallets of stone or at least raise one enough to move them, also I know that a heavy load is best carried low to the ground makes it easier to move and less prone to tip equipment over with weight shift.
All I know is bucket teeth make breaking the ground up so it can be dug up easier, thus making digging easier, never thought it would hinder the lifting or curling of the bucket other then it makes it easier to pierce the dirt and thus lifting more of it. Another way to look at it teeth are only a small area as opposed to the long flat bucket lip, less surface but pierces further.
But you could be right, I have been wrong before, don't believe me ask my wife. :)

Man this is why I am on the forum! :) I love people who speak there mind and bounce ideas. It is the best way for me to learn. I don't want to come across as a know it all, because I truly am enjoying our conversation. So here it goes.

Why would pallet forks not work? You are speaking in absolutes. All I am saying is when I bury my bucket in the side of my clay and rock hill, my hydraulic pressure release valve bypasses quicker when I roll my bucket back now that I have bucket teeth. I never said the tractor was weak, but it each piece of equipment has its limitations. Each modification has a trade off. Take your pallet fork and bury the tips into a side of a ditch bank. Now roll the bucket back. You still have less surface area, but you have lost mechanical advantage due to the length. When adding teeth, it is the same thing to a lessor degree: however, In good soil, the loss of roll back force would not be noticed. In clay and rock I do. Darn, I have had to think way to much before the first cup of coffee. :thumbsup:
Question? Does your CK bog the engine down when using the hydraulics under heavy load? I think it should to some degree. Mine bypass the pressure release valve before I notice any change in the engine RPMs. It is strong, but I think it should be stronger. Your thoughts?
P.S. I have been wrong many times, and my wife of 22 years has always been there to help me correct the situation. :D
 
   / Teeth, hooks and clevis for my CK20S Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Okay if your theory was correct then pallet forks would never work. :)
I know for a fact my tractor was used to lift pallets of stone or at least raise one enough to move them, also I know that a heavy load is best carried low to the ground makes it easier to move and less prone to tip equipment over with weight shift.
All I know is bucket teeth make breaking the ground up so it can be dug up easier, thus making digging easier, never thought it would hinder the lifting or curling of the bucket other then it makes it easier to pierce the dirt and thus lifting more of it. Another way to look at it teeth are only a small area as opposed to the long flat bucket lip, less surface but pierces further.
But you could be right, I have been wrong before, don't believe me ask my wife. :)

Man this is why I am on the forum! :) I love people who speak there mind and bounce ideas. It is the best way for me to learn. I don't want to come across as a know it all, because I truly am enjoying our conversation. So here it goes.

Why would pallet forks not work? You are speaking in absolutes. All I am saying is when I bury my bucket in the side of my clay and rock hill, my hydraulic pressure release valve bypasses quicker when I roll my bucket back now that I have bucket teeth. I never said the tractor was weak, but it each piece of equipment has its limitations. Each modification has a trade off. Take your pallet fork and bury the tips into a side of a ditch bank. Now roll the bucket back. You still have less surface area, but you have lost mechanical advantage due to the length. When adding teeth, it is the same thing to a lessor degree: however, In good soil, the loss of roll back force would not be noticed. In clay and rock I do. Darn, I have had to think way to much before the first cup of coffee. :thumbsup:
Question? Does your CK bog the engine down when using the hydraulics under heavy load? I think it should to some degree. Mine bypass the pressure release valve before I notice any change in the engine RPMs. It is strong, but I think it should be stronger. Your thoughts?
P.S. I have been wrong many times, and my wife of 22 years has always been there to help me correct the situation. :D
 

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