Tell me about 3PH splitters

[Indygunworks]

Later this year I will be taking down about 40 full size cotton wood, and maple trees, and a few sycamores to build a path through my woods to install my shooting range. This means I will have ALOT of firewood to process. I am torn about log splitters whether I want a 3 point to save a bit of money or not. I have looked at the splitfire 3403 which is a 3ph dual acting, with a 4 way wedge. Looks like I can get that for 2k. I was hoping to spend under 1k, but will spring the money if its REALLY worth spending. The only real reason for going 3ph is because of the extra engine that will need to be maintained. if I buy one with an engine it will be barn kept. Once these tree's are processed I will probably only split a cord or two a year.

The dual action deal seems pretty nice but I am not sure if its worth the extra dough.

Would I be better off to try and buy a used one?

 

[Indygunworks]

If it matters I will be running this off the accessory port on the Front end loader, which I believe is a much faster pump than the 3ph pump. This is on a 1980 Ford 340

 

[Stonehaller]

Stand alone units are generally faster, more powerful and you can use the tractor to take wood to and from the splitter. I like my 3 point splitter, but I only do about 2 face cord a year. The 3 point splitter takes up much less space to store in the barn as well. I bought mine used but one in good shape can be hard to find. You might want to look for a used stand alone splitter for your big lot and sell it when you are done. Then you could watch for a used 3 point to handle your low volume after that.

 

[Indygunworks]

This doesn't seem horrible

Brave 20 Ton 3 Point Tractor Log Splitter - Dual Split TMH2015


although I still think this is at the top of the list.... but 2k? Ouch

Split-Fire Sales Inc. :: 3403 Woodsplitter :: Quality Built. High Performance. Split-Fire - Your Best Choice

 

[CalG]

I'm splitting today, just in for a bite.

Big maple rounds, the tractor loader has the log tongs hanging out front. I really couldn't get those big ones up without the tractor. A suppose the 3ph unit could be lowered to the ground and the rounds rolled on.

Bent over one way or the other, ;-)

ETA

I have the bottom of the line Timber Wolf TW-P1

The two way splitter might be OK if you have a crew to keep up with loading and clearing, I don't find the cylinder retraction time a limiting element in the process. Besides, a 5 second rest is a good thing.

I should have gotten photos of today's work. Some of those maple rounds were BIG! .. Well, all of them were in fact! ;-)

Four ways are GREAT when splitting 8-12 inch stuff!

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you want the best 3 point splitter by far, then look no further than the Timberwolf TW3HD,

This baby comes with a removable 4-way wedge and has the power to push everything through it,

It's powered by a hydraulic pump on the 3 point, and that's MUCH faster than using a remote or tapping into a loader valve/line.

Fast and has LOT's of power, exactly what I want in a splitter!

It's one of my best buys!

SR

 

[FredH]

I have looked at the 3 point but went stand alone instead . Increasd maintenance works both ways . Sure you have a extra small engine to maintain , but with 3 point , you have increased maintenance on your tractor . After 10 years , the B & S industrial engine on mine , was running like garbage . Had 3 options , Rebuild Carb. , Purchase New Carb. ( Ironically , the New Carb was only $22 more than the rebuild kit ?? ) , Or What I ended up doing was bought anew engine at Harbor Freight for $100 .
New Engine starts a whole lot easier and runs better . Had to do a little fab work and get a new half coupler to match new engine shaft size , But am Very pleased . I vary in amount needing to split every year , just depends on how previous winter went . Only Thing on splitter I have ever covered was the motor .

Fred H.

 

[Indygunworks]

I also have a PTO pump already that I use for the Long 119a 3ph backhoe... I could put some quick couplers on that and just use the same pump.... I don't know what its rated for but using it wouldn't be much more difficult than using the tractor remotes, and I wouldn't have to buy any additional hose.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I want to sit down when splitting and I want my tractor available to use.

 

[FredH]

My Set up is pretty close to oldpilgrim's . Don't lift nothing , just roll it over .

Fred H.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I don't do any lifting either... I cut the fire wood logs, into firewood lengths right over my wagon,

Then roll the blocks right onto my splitter,

The splits go right off the end right into 1/2 cord boxes that I can move with my tractor...

My splitter is "self propelled" and my tractor sips diesel at a looow rate, without a little roaring motor in my ear... As for maintenance, i'll do that once a year on my tractor whether I run the splitter with it, or not!

SR

 

[oldpilgrim]

I'm too old and stiff to keep climbing up into and down out of a trailer. I'll sit, thank you.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That's why they invented stairs... lol It's really no big deal at all...

SR

 

[Will_C]

I understand the idea of not maintaining a separate engine, but the 8 hp Briggs and Stratton I/C motor on the splitter my father made over 35 years ago is still going strong- and that splitter has split some wood- I would conservatively say over 750 cords. Will

 

[Sawyer Rob]

made over 35 years ago is still going strong-
Will

NOW you know why it's still going strong!

SR

 

[TnAndy]

I have looked at the 3 point but went stand alone instead . Increasd maintenance works both ways . Sure you have a extra small engine to maintain , but with 3 point , you have increased maintenance on your tractor . After 10 years , the B & S industrial engine on mine , was running like garbage . Had 3 options , Rebuild Carb. , Purchase New Carb. ( Ironically , the New Carb was only $22 more than the rebuild kit ?? ) , Or What I ended up doing was bought anew engine at Harbor Freight for $100 .
New Engine starts a whole lot easier and runs better . Had to do a little fab work and get a new half coupler to match new engine shaft size , But am Very pleased . I vary in amount needing to split every year , just depends on how previous winter went . Only Thing on splitter I have ever covered was the motor .

Fred H.

I went with a 3ph splitter initially, didn't like the fact it tied up my tractor, and if you plan to run it off tractor hydraulics, they really are NOT meant to run a splitter....most are just not enough volume to run them very fast. I too was torn about the extra engine factor, so I understand, but in the end I'm glad I converted the 3pt to a stand alone unit. I went with a Tecumseh engine, and same thing....the carb gave me fits after about 10 years, so I bought a Honda GX240, electric start, (and it starts so easy going on 4 years now, I've never used the electric start feature). Briggs and Tecumseh are what us po' folk use until we can afford a Honda.

Run the engine dry when you're done at the end of the year, put fresh gas in it to start the new season, and you won't have a problem.

 

[Indygunworks]

in my case a part of the reason for wanting a 3ph is the cost factor.... no motor = cheaper splitter, or more splitter for the same money..... and then I don't have to worry about as many people wanting to borrow it.

 

[FredH]

20 ton Log Splitter

At $699 , $400 cheaper than the PTO model that was listed . Same engine that I have now . Not a Vertical model , But not sure about the previous listed PTO model going vertical either , ( just did not read it entirely ) . No real maintenence on the motors . Check the oil before use and run it out of gas before shutting off for extended periods of time , ( pretty easy to do since the Predator engine has a fuel shut off ) .
I Thought about a PTO model before I bought my current splitter , had a previous self contained unit that I sold when I switched to a pellet stove for awhile . But as a few others have listed in previous posts and threads , I like the ability to use tractor for other things while spliting wood . Set it up were I need it and leave it there till done .

Fred H.

 

[vsteel]

I went through this as well and what it really came down to is I didn't have the tractor to run it. If you look at the tonnage and the speed you want you will then be able to find out how much PTO power or hydraulic flow you need. I wanted 30 to 35 ton and I found out my little tractor would only be able to do about half or I would have to take 30 seconds each way. I went with a stand alone.

 

[msmith]

I have a 3ph splitter that uses the remote hydraulic valves. My pump is rated 12.8 gpm @ about 2200 rpm. I run it at 11 - 1500 rpm. I got it at tractor supply years ago and I have split many many cords with it. I took the legs off so that I could get it closer to the ground for the big rounds. I also would do something similar to Sawyer Rob and load the rounds in my trailer with the front end loader then level the splitter with the deck of the trailer. I would then roll the rounds right off on to the splitter. There isn't much that it won't go through even at the low rpms that I run it. If you can swing it, go for something like Sawyer Rob has if you go 3ph. I am going pony up and get a Built Rite stand alone. The 11HP model runs a little over $8K. I normally split 15-20 full cords a year.