The 10,000th kioti won't start thread (sigh)

[jimmyj]

I am going to try and jump the starter directly today to bypass the bits in between. The relay now just makes a continuous clicking or buzzing sound. May as well check the ignition as well, why not really......

 

[radioman]

Have you tried leaving key in on position and short the connection for starting and power wire to starter to see if it turns over? if it does, its possible you may have a switch or starting wire correded to starter. If not you might have bad ground somewhere. If thats the case, use your jumper cables from neg of battery to clean bare metal part of frame of tractor and try starting again.

 

[jimmyj]

use your jumper cables from neg of battery to clean bare metal part of frame of tractor and try starting again.

I never thought of that. Good idea. Thanks.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I am going to try and jump the starter directly today to bypass the bits in between. The relay now just makes a continuous clicking or buzzing sound. May as well check the ignition as well, why not really......

The data I have (which may not represent your model) shows the starter relay as closest to the outside (on the front of the firewall) and the next one inboard is the glow relay (which is clicking). So it seems you have problems with the starter circuit and also the glow circuit. Other than the main 60-amp fuse and battery cables (and associated connections) the key switch appears to be the only common denominator here. Given multiple reports of confirmed problems with that switch (and ease of removing it) I'd suggest you check it if the starter checks out (and you can get to it)

 

[Avondale]

I had similar problems with my 2006 DK 35. For the ign sw, I sprayed inside and outside of switch with electric contact spray cleaner, dried off best I could and it seems to work. Regarding the batt problems, I got tired of messing around so frequently so I swapped out to Can Tire batt and cable lugs, replaced both +ve and -ve cables and have not had any more issues from that end. Good luck and please let us know what your solution turns out to be.

 

[jimmyj]

The jumper from the neg side of the battery to the frame worked like a charm. Will be replacing the battery cables (going to do both, cheap insurance).

Thanks all for the comments. Oh yes, I'm also going to replace the bolt that attaches the neg cable to the frame with one that won't corrode.

 

[k0ua]

The jumper from the neg side of the battery to the frame worked like a charm. Will be replacing the battery cables (going to do both, cheap insurance).

Thanks all for the comments. Oh yes, I'm also going to replace the bolt that attaches the neg cable to the frame with one that won't corrode.

So your cable was eaten up on the inside with the green/white powder "mung" then? split the insulation and check it out.. I believe just the sulfuric acid fumes from being near the battery is enough to cause this. When I get a new vehicle I make sure to seal the edge of the insulation with the no-ox-id grease on both ends, and coat everything metallic near the battery, including battery hold down hardware.

 

[jimmyj]

I have to get some of that no ox id stuff. I havent cut the cable up but I'm sure it will look like you said kOua.

 

[Soundguy]

insuficient ground if a extra jumper helped...

 

[Coyote machine]

The jumper from the neg side of the battery to the frame worked like a charm. Will be replacing the battery cables (going to do both, cheap insurance).

Thanks all for the comments. Oh yes, I'm also going to replace the bolt that attaches the neg cable to the frame with one that won't corrode.

Use stainless bolt and copper anti-seize or the no-ox. I also spray the grounding bolt and both frame and battery cable end(s) with a battery corrosion prevention spray, available at most auto stores, to keep out atmospheric moisture and water/road salt, etc. This renders the issue mute.