Tiller The dark side...tiller

[Knight]

I picked up a 60" tiller today "DARK HORSE" It was returned to the dealer because of an oil leak. A little deal(liiitttleee deal) and I was loading it up.
The tines were slightly worn, but in perfect condition. It had seen some usage. Other than dirt and oil on the seal, it looked like a new tiller.
Now this tiller, as mentioned before around here is a clone of the King Kutter. Staring at the two for thirty minutes, I could not see any differences, except for the color.
I see threads around here about King Kutters leaking oil in the same spot as well.
Now If I could fix this oil leak, I will be ahead of the game.
But it's more than just replacing a seal, I need to find out why these tillers are plagued by oil leaking from the gear box. I have somebody good with these gear box machines that can help me determine what is the problem. We will find it and we will remedy the problem.
I will take pictures of my progress.

1. I don't think synthetic oil is helping the problem, since it tends to be thinner. There is no reason to use syn in this gear box turning <560PRM's.
(I had a 331 ford stoker motor, broke it in with 30w dino oil and it had 50lbs oil pressure at idle, I put in Royal purple, syn 30w and I had 10lbs pressure at idle.) It's just thinner,even at the same viscosity. I'm sure this is not the seal problem but I am using dino oil on this tiller.
2. I am going to check for run out.
3. I am going to check surfaces
4. I am going to check seal install (Maybe a 13 year old chinese girl that installed it made an error.)


Lastly I want to something about use of equipment.
I seen where tillers tines were broken. Now I'm sure I am easier on equipment than most. I plan on middle busting untilled ground.
If you go at it like a cowboy and hitting rocks like there is no tomorrow, you can break a tine on any tiller.


****Answer these four questions at the end*******

Here is a good example about how people use equipment..........
My Brother-in law's neighbor bought Kubota L2800.
He drives it with no ballast, all he has is a FEL.
He is putting a road up a small mountain (Hey Colorado people! We call hills, mountains here.) He drives around with the FEL full and no weight in the back.

1. He needs to keep his tractor in four wheel drive 100% of the time....WHY?
2. Which tires on the tractor should be doing the work?
3. In his case which tire are doing the work using traction?
4. What happens to the gears in the front drive from what he is doing?

I rarely use 4 wheel drive, I want the back tires working, just just hanging around anyways. I want my front gears to stay in good condition. Just a difference in how equipment is used.

 

[Shmudda]

Seals usually go bad from a bearing that lets the shaft wobble to much wearing the seal out.

Also could be that 13 year old Chinese girl could have machined the seal bore off the centerline of the bearing bore allowing the seal to NOT be concentric with the shaft allowing it to wear prematurely thus creating your leak.

Good luck with your exploratory surgery!

Craig

 

[Knight]

Seals usually go bad from a bearing that lets the shaft wobble to much wearing the seal out.

Also could be that 13 year old Chinese girl could have machined the seal bore off the centerline of the bearing bore allowing the seal to NOT be concentric with the shaft allowing it to wear prematurely thus creating your leak.

Good luck with your exploratory surgery!

Craig

I fell off my chair laughing.
Maybe she dropped the 600lb tiller,while carrying it out to the boat.

 

[Knight]

* I'm not knocking King Kutter. I just want to point out how it used and how careful your are will extend the life. And I'm digging into why the seals leaked, so I can fix mine. Maybe King Kutter knows and made the improvement on King Kutter 2's.

Here is a post from another forum

"Ditto on the KK tiller, I did blow an oil seal early on but no big deal. Its slower than discing, but much smoother bed. I also have the KK mower thats been really beat to death and it keeps on cutting. KK is good in my book for the price."

another
"My king kutter till will not hold gear oil."

One guy says something that makes sense
"My 5 foot KK tiller makes the prettiest seed bed I have ever seen. I love that thing. I've had it now for 3 seasons and still going strong. I will admit though that I baby it--I do not use it on piece of land that has lots of rocks--for that land I use an old disc. I have been very satisfied with the KK tiller."


I thhink you need to careful when using a rototiller, if you want it to last.

MAINTENANCE
1). Periodically check and maintain proper gear oil level.
2). Every 8 hours, (1) grease "out-board hub", (2) PTO shaft universal joints, (3) PTO
shaft safety shield and (4) PTO telescoping surface.
NOTE: Use only a grade Type II tube grease.
NOTE: Do not grease the slip clutch assembly.
3). Before each use check to make sure all safety shields are installed and working
properly.
4). Check tiller tines for cracks and breaks before every use.
5). Periodically check all nuts and bolts to insure they are tight and secure.
6). Periodically loosen torque spring bolts and allow slip clutch to slip for approximately
two (2) revolutions. Loosen the bolts until the springs lose contact with the flange
yoke. This ensures that the slip clutch is not in a "locked" position.
7). Make sure that the clutch slips.
8). To retighten the slip clutch, tighten the torque spring bolts until the nut makes contact
with the flange yoke and further tighten one and a half turns (1-1/2). This is a good
starting point , further adjustments may need to be made based on soil conditions.
NOTE: Do not over or under tighten slip clutch assembly or damage may occur.