The Log house Project begins........

[MotorSeven]

 

[MarkV]

M7 when you say "runout" I assume you mean things will not be completely parallel when you reach the far wall. That is pretty normal in my world. There are very few truly perfect square houses. You will just need to adjust by tapering your finish courses and let the trim hide the cut.

It is common to come across boards without a tongue or groove end when installing used flooring. Actually a lot of reclaimed flooring like heart pine milled from old beams is shipped without end T&G. It is best to use as many good ends as you can but don't reject boards without end milling. If you make a butt joint without the T&G put a staple about 1 1/2 inchs on either side of the joint and you will be fine.

It looks like the flooring is going down well. That can be a challenge with used flooring sometimes. Often there is a build up of dirt or varnish at the tongue or groove that can prevent a tight fit. It helps to have a scraper around if you run into that type of thing.

MarkV

 

[MotorSeven]

M7 when you say "runout" I assume you mean things will not be completely parallel when you reach the far wall. That is pretty normal in my world. There are very few truly perfect square houses. You will just need to adjust by tapering your finish courses and let the trim hide the cut.
MarkV

Whoaaa, wait a min....we are talking about MY house...and it is perfect:laughing:......well..at least it started square

Yes that is what I meant by runout. On a deck it's easy to fix as long as you keep checking it for square as you add boards. I didn't figure that there is any way to fix a hardwoood floor that gets out of square, but I thought you pro's might have had some secret Zen like method.

This pretty much has T&G on all the ends. I just managed to grab one that had been cut...didn't check it and proceeded to drive 4 staples into it. I gotta say the staples do hold well. So far the fit is good unless the T&G was damaged when removed and I've been using a sharp razor knife to cut out the bad tongue and clear the grooves.

Oh, and I didn't worry about getting the floor tight to the door jams. The way the floor and logs laid out I ended up with the equivalent of putting the doors on top of the subfloor. This means even with the oak I still have a "step up" at the door of about 3/4 to 1". So, I will have to make custom beveled transition thresholds on the inside at each of the 3 french doors. It would not have been my first choice, but it is what it is and it will only take a couple of hrs to make them up and fit them.

 

[forgeblast]

Powernail Power Jack 200 - Gets Boards Tight
Strap Clamps For Hardwood Floor Installations
I wish I had these we had some creep and it was getting late so the next day we ripped it out and re did a section to get back on track.

 

[MotorSeven]

Dang FB, the Power jack costs an arm, leg and several fingers. But, thanks for the idea as I think I can weld some brackets onto a cheap hyd jack and make one. I don't like that strap, it will have a tendency to pull the boards up not together.

 

[forgeblast]

What we did was take a car scissor jack and put a block of wood behind it that was screwed into the subfloor and then jacked it back into position, I would have rather had the straps. We were not off that much and we already had over 1/2 the floor done and once we got it back in position we finished up in no time.

 

[MotorSeven]

What we did was take a car scissor jack and put a block of wood behind it that was screwed into the subfloor and then jacked it back into position, I would have rather had the straps. We were not off that much and we already had over 1/2 the floor done and once we got it back in position we finished up in no time.

10-4...that's more :thumbsup:like it

 

[dstig1]

BTW, if you want or need a slot in an end of a board, a biscuit jointer works well for that, if you have one. Otherwise it can be done easily on a table saw, if you make a jig to hold the board on end, or have a tenoning jig. I wouldn't want to do thousands that way, but for an occasional one it works.

 

[MotorSeven]

BTW, if you want or need a slot in an end of a board, a biscuit jointer works well for that, if you have one. Otherwise it can be done easily on a table saw, if you make a jig to hold the board on end, or have a tenoning jig. I wouldn't want to do thousands that way, but for an occasional one it works.

Now why didn't I think of that? Yes I have a biscuit jointer and yes that would be way easier than setting up two different routers to do the T&G...thanks!

 

[bindian]

Rick,
If you buy it, either get the warranty on it at check out, or look at the purshase as a one time use thing. I bought a Central Pneumatic 20 gauge wide crown pneu. stapler from HF. I used it to put up hardware cloth in my barn ridge vents. Oiled before and after use. Now, a two months later, it does not work. Don't know if it was the gun malfunctioned or the Marvel Mystery Oil I used over the oil that came with the stapler. Two weeks ago, I bought the 18 gauge Brad Nailer and it still works well, over two weekends use.
hugs, Brandi

I took the 20 guage wide crown stapler to work last night to figure out why it was not working. Seems it was operator error. I was trying to load it wrong. When all else fails................................read the instructions!
Now if fires all 3 brands of staples I have:thumbsup:
hugs, Brandi